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  • Kebabs fire up the flavor

    The Sun Herald
    Posted on Wed, Sep. 29, 2004

    Kebabs fire up the flavor

    Marinades play big role in recipes

    By SHARON THOMPSON

    KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS

    Meat on a stick is the world's oldest form of barbecue. Almost every culture
    has its own version: Japanese yakitori, French brochettes, Asian satay,
    Peruvian anticuchos, Spanish pinchos morunos, Armenian shashlik and Turkish
    shish kebabs.

    The origin of skewer roasting is usually tied to the Turkish history of
    nomadic and semi-nomadic life, when cooking over open-field fires or in
    open-pit ovens was common, according to "A Mediterranean Feast" by Clifford
    A. Wright. But "given the obvious simplicity of spit-roasting meat over a
    fire, I suspect its genesis is earlier," Wright wrote.

    Skewered meals can be as simple as chunks of meat on a bamboo stick or as
    elaborate as colorful brochettes served at fancy restaurants. Gourmet
    kitchen stores stock whimsical skewers, although Marsha Norris, sales
    manager at Williams-Sonoma, said she recommends the inexpensive wooden
    sticks.

    "Vegetables or meat tend to stick to the wooden ones a little bit better,"
    she said.

    Wooden skewers should be soaked 20 to 30 minutes, which delays the burning
    of the bamboo.

    So what makes the perfect shish kebab? First, there's the meat. Lamb is
    traditional in Central Asia and the Middle and Near East. (Beef is also used
    in Iran and the Republic of Georgia.) A marinade of some sort is essential -
    first to flavor the meat, then to keep it moist during grilling. Slices of
    onion or peppers placed between the cubes of meat add flavor and color. A
    brisk fire is needed to sear the meat quickly, while a generous basting with
    olive oil or saffron-flavored butter keeps the kebab from drying out,
    according to Steven Raichlen, author of "Barbecue Bible" and "BBQ USA."

    Mike Critchfield, an owner of Critchfield Meats in Lexington, Ky., said the
    best pieces of beef for skewering are "tenderloin tips, which is filet
    mignon as it falls off when I cut the meat.

    "A lot of people try to mix chicken and beef," he said. "That's not a good
    idea. It takes chicken longer to cook than beef," he said.

    Kebabs are a perfect choice for any cookout. You can use meats, seafood,
    vegetables and fruits to suit everyone's tastes. They can be made in advance
    so the host or hostess also can enjoy the party.

    BUILD-YOUR-OWN

    SHISH KEBABS

    DIJON-ROSEMARY STEAK

    1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

    2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, stemmed

    4 cloves garlic, minced

    2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

    2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

    ¼ cup olive oil

    ½ teaspoon salt

    ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

    1 pound sirloin steak, cut into 1-inch cubes

    Whisk together all the ingredients (except the steak) in a bowl. Toss the
    steak in the mixture until evenly coated. Cover and marinate in refrigerator
    for 2 hours.

    CITRUS-TARRAGON CHICKEN

    1 orange, zested, then juiced, remainder discarded

    1 lemon, zested, then juiced, remainder discarded

    1 lime, zested, then juiced, remainder discarded

    4 cloves garlic, minced

    1 tablespoon fresh tarragon leaves

    ¼ cup soy sauce

    ¼ cup canola oil

    ½ teaspoon salt

    ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

    1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes

    Whisk together all the ingredients (except the chicken) in a bowl. Toss the
    chicken in the mixture until evenly coated. Cover and marinate in
    refrigerator for 2 hours.

    LEMON-GARLIC SHRIMP

    3 cloves garlic, minced

    2 shallots, minced

    1 bay leaf, fresh or dried

    2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

    ¼ cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley

    1 teaspoon chili pepper flakes

    ¼ cup olive oil

    2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

    1 pound (16 to 20 count) shrimp, shelled and deveined

    Whisk together all the ingredients (except the shrimp) in a bowl. Toss the
    shrimp in the mixture until evenly coated. Cover and marinate in
    refrigerator for 2 hours.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Skewer savvy

    Soak wooden skewers in water for 15 to 30 minutes so they won't burn on the
    grill. Wooden skewers should be discarded after use.

    Some cooks prefer flat, metal skewers so cubed food doesn't spin while
    turning. If you grill often, consider investing in a set. They are good year
    after year, require no soaking and are easier to use than the wooden ones.

    Shrimp, scallops and other wobbly bits benefit from the double-skewer
    technique: Thread the pieces on a skewer, then run another one through the
    pieces parallel to the first, about a half-inch away.

    If you are having vegetarian guests, cook the meat and vegetables on
    separate skewers so they can pick up a stick of vegetables. If your guests
    will be assembling their own skewers, place meat and vegetables in separate
    bowls.

    - KRT
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