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  • Armenia opens up to visitors

    Panorama, Armenia
    Oct 30 2010


    Financial Times: Armenia opens up to visitors


    British `Financial Times' opens a window of `country squeezed into the
    highlands between Turkey and Azerbaijan, a country which became the
    first in the world formally to adopt Christianity' - Armenia to
    foreign readers. FT reporter speaks about Tatev Monastery `within
    whose fortified walls this small group is sitting, was once a great
    centre of learning, home to a thousand souls', the impressions he got
    after his visit to Armenia.

    `Below the monastery, the Vorotan ravine plunges 1,000 feet into
    wooded depths. To reach it by car, we had snaked round the mountains
    for an hour, descending to cross Satan's Bridge before rising again to
    Tatev, and to a sense of peace that you might imagine has persisted
    for the past 11 centuries. But telltale cables above our heads herald
    a new dawn. Earlier this month, the world's longest cable car opened
    here, linking Tatev with Halidzor village in the valley below,' the
    author says. `Carrying 25 passengers at a time over a 5.7km long
    cableway, at a speed of 23 miles an hour, it is expected to ferry
    20,000 people a year to the dizzy heights of Tatev, cutting the
    journey time to 11 minutes. The 11-month, 13m project of a
    Swiss-Austrian firm is the first stage of a 36m plan to provide
    tourism facilities at the monastery and surrounding gorge. It's
    symbolic of a process going on across Armenia, with improvements to
    roads, hotels and other tourism facilities helping to open up the
    country to visitors.'

    The writer recalls her first visit to Armenia: `I first went to
    Armenia in the 1990s, in the early years of independence, after
    earthquake and war with Azerbaijan had devastated the economy. A
    combination of fuel shortages and atrocious infrastructure made it
    impracticable to venture far beyond the capital's hinterland. Today,
    however, good roads make their way into dizzyingly remote reaches,
    encouraging a nascent tourism industry. And although throwbacks to
    Soviet hospitality linger on - such as the Armenia Hotel in the spa
    town of Jermuk, where the corridor to dinner is lined with doors
    enticingly labelled Colonoscopy, Gastroscopy, Proctologist - foreign
    companies have arrived to manage Yerevan's classic hotels. For
    something more distinctive, however, it is the Tufenkian Heritage
    Hotels chain that leads the way. Characterised by excellent service,
    fresh local food, personal touches, Frette sheets and wonderful views,
    they welcome travellers in Yerevan, Lake Sevan, Lori and Dilijan - the
    lushly-forested region and favoured holiday spot of Soviet musicians,
    where Benjamin Britten spent the summer of 1965.'

    In 301, Armenia became the first nation in the world formally to adopt
    Christianity, and, 100 years later St Mesrop Mashtots invented his
    spikily impenetrable alphabet of 36 `warrior' letters - on which Lord
    Byron was to sharpen his wits at the Armenian Monastery in Venice - to
    translate the Bible. Against a history of invading Persians,
    Byzantines, Arabs and Turks, and periodic pogroms, not least the
    genocide of 1915 attested to by a memorial in the capital city of
    Yerevan, `the twin pillars of religion and language have stood in
    defence of national identity,' the author sums up.




    From: A. Papazian
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