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In pictures: Yezidi Kurds in Armenia: Life in the wilderness

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  • In pictures: Yezidi Kurds in Armenia: Life in the wilderness

    BBC News
    Sept 23 2004

    In pictures: Yezidi Kurds: Life in the wilderness

    There are about 200,000 Kurds in Armenia.

    Many of them are Yezidis, a secretive religious sect whose unusual
    traditions have, unfairly, led to them being labelled
    devil-worshippers.

    Leading semi-nomadic lives, they spend winter in their villages and,
    in April, move to Alpine pastures high in the mountains.

    Journalists Ruben Mangasaryan and Mark Grigoryan explored their lives
    for BBCRussian.com.

    Uncertain origins

    Yezidis are an ancient, pre-Islamic sect of uncertain origin.
    They worship the "peacock god" Melek Taus, known more commonly as
    Lucifer, whom they do not consider a fallen angel.

    This is Pusur Uzmanyan, 60, who is the head of the family. She has 10
    children and 40 grandchildren.

    Like other Yezidis, she and her family live on the edges of the
    Aragats mountain range in Armenia.

    Taking sheep to pasture

    Yezidis maintain a rich cultural tradition, not just in Armenia, but
    also in Syria, Turkey and, most prominently, in Iraq.
    Each family member has their own duty - men take sheep to the
    pastures while the women make cheese and the children help.

    Every morning the sheep are taken out to graze - teenage boys can
    shepherd herds of 200-300 animals.

    "It is more interesting in the mountains than in the village," - says
    Usup, 12. "Here I am totally free."

    Family fun

    The Yezidi settlements are the highest in Armenia - up to 3,000m
    (9,840ft) above sea level.
    The big event of each day is milking the sheep.

    The shepherds bring the animals back to the camp, separating them
    from lambs and rams and then corralling them.

    A man sits by the entrance of the corral and holds two sheep, which
    are milked by two women.

    The milk is then poured into a vat, boiled, leavened and left to rest
    for a couple of hours.

    Bread for the family

    Yezidi Kurds live in big Soviet Army tents with no glass in the
    windows, which are covered instead by transparent pieces of
    cellophane.
    A family of 10 to 12 people sleeps in each big tent.

    Usually, there is also room for a small cheese factory - tubs or vats
    with maturing cheese, salt in bags and truckles of cheese.

    Here, Marine is preparing dough to make lavash, or Armenian flat,
    round bread.

    Cheese-making

    Pusur Uzmanyan is getting ready to put Chechil cheese, which is
    produced from cow milk, into brine.
    Chechil is a special sort of cheese without a crust, which matures in
    the brine - like Georgian Suluguni or Italian Mozzarella.

    Cheese is the main product of Yezidi Kurd shepherds.

    Once a week a buyer comes to collect a consignment of the cheese to
    sell for the families.

    Dinner time

    When it is eating time, the men sit around the table first.
    The children and women must wait until the men eat their fill and
    only then can start eating.

    Then comes the turn of the dogs, who eat the remains.

    Usually they eat different milk products, lamb meat and, of course,
    freshly baked lavash, washed down with vodka.

    After the meal comes Turkish coffee or, as they call it here,
    Armenian coffee!

    Maintaining tradition

    Yezidi Kurd children mostly leave school in April, when their
    families move to the mountain pastures, although for some the school
    year finishes in June.
    At school they learn maths and how to speak and write in Armenian.

    However, Yezidis remain fiercely proud of their traditions and have
    resisted attempts to "convert" them.

    This has led to devil-worshipping allegations and, in some cases,
    oppression by their Muslim neighbours.


    http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/shared/spl/hi/picture_gallery/04/world_yezidi_kurds/html/1.stm
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