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Book Review: New Armenia Travel Guide

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  • Book Review: New Armenia Travel Guide

    BOOK REVIEW: New Armenia Travel Guide

    By Neil C Scott
    Yerevan Times
    9-24-04

    Armenia has become increasingly visited over the last decade so that
    this Guide, which is beautifully illustrated by the authors' own
    photographs, is particularly welcome.

    It is authoritative and highly informative, and written by authors who
    have explored the country thoroughly with intelligent and observant
    eyes. Their coverage of environmental issues adds significantly to the
    value of the book.

    The Guide starts with three introductory chapters covering the history
    of Armenia, the basics of getting to the country and travelling around
    it, and its ecology and environment.

    Useful historical summaries by Robert Suny set the political scene,
    while two other excellent contributions by Jason Kauffeld and Daniel
    Klem on the forests and birds of Armenia respectively, emphasise the
    fragile state of the country's ecology and the measures that are being
    taken to try to protect it. As in other parts of the book, useful
    links are provided to stakeholders and other interested organisations.

    A further seven chapters describe Yerevan, the regions, and Nagorno
    Karabagh. The chapter on Yerevan provides an excellent summary of
    where to stay and what to see, including those intriguing parts that
    nobody else knows about - such as the city's oldest religious centre,
    the Katoghikeh Chapel, tucked away behind the Linguistics Institute in
    Abovian Street. This chapel is so small that many worshipers have to
    stand outside it during services!

    The authors also draw attention to the development challenges that
    Yerevan is facing and commendably highlight the absence of planning
    controls that have allowed unwelcome incursion into the city's
    fast-diminishing greenbelt, as in the area adjacent to the monumental
    Opera House.

    The bulk of the Guide is devoted to the country's regions, with
    emphasis on sites of historical interest. As might be expected, these
    focus on monasteries and other religious artefacts but the authors set
    these in the context of contemporary social and political life,
    thereby making their coverage relevant to Armenia today. For instance,
    the problem of emigration and the legacy of the 1988 earthquake are
    discussed, and attention drawn to the strange, isolated Russian
    Molokan communities in the Dilijan area, where Armenian is not spoken
    or understood.

    More attention could have been paid to the changing industrial scene
    and of the country's Soviet and contemporary architecture. This could
    be included in the enlarged Guide that the authors are planning for
    the future, which will provide a more complete coverage of historical
    Armenian sites in Eastern Anatolia. These are discussed in Appendix in
    this Guide.

    The chapter on Karabagh is particularly welcome since this Armenian
    enclave in Azerbaijan has only recently been accessible to tourists
    from Armenia. Throughout the book, detailed information is provided
    on how to get to places of interest and where to stay, based on
    Matthew Karanian and Robert Kurkjian's own meticulous on-the-ground
    research in their trusty Niva jeep.

    Useful maps and plans of the principal cities as well as many
    exquisite photographs support the lucid text, while the book's layout
    is clear and easy to follow. The Guide is priced at less than $25,
    making it exceptionally good value. It will undoubtedly become the
    standard reference volume for travellers to Armenia for many years to
    come.

    At a Glance:
    Stone Garden Guide to Armenia and Karabagh
    Matthew Karanian and Robert Kurkjian (304 pages)
    Publisher: Stone Garden Productions
    ISBN 0-9672120-8-1 $24.95
    www.StoneGardenProductions.com


    [Printed on p. 8 of The Yerevan Times; Photographs: Book Jacket,
    Karabagh Shepherd]
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