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Shiraz: Comfort Food, Armenian-Style

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  • Shiraz: Comfort Food, Armenian-Style

    SHIRAZ: COMFORT FOOD, ARMENIAN-STYLE
    By Bill Clapper Telegram & Gazette Reviewer

    Worcester Telegram, MA
    Aug 1 2013

    The small, family-run Shiraz Armenian Cuisine along Worcester's busy
    Park Avenue is a journey back to a time when neighborhood restaurants
    thrived on the authenticity of their particular ethnic cuisines.

    At Shiraz that means Middle Eastern dishes with the strong influence
    of Armenian, Syrian and Greek cultures prepared in traditional ways.

    Add to the authentic food continuous Middle Eastern music and snatches
    of conversations in various languages and you have a slice of Middle
    East culture in Worcester.

    There are no frills or pretention at Shiraz because the emphasis
    is on the food. The decor featured cafeteria-style metal chairs,
    covered in blue vinyl, hovering in groups of two or four around faux
    wood grain metal tables. The tables were aligned in neat rows leading
    to the back of the restaurant and kitchen.

    The few objects de art on the generally white walls are small drawings,
    photos and prints of people and places Armenian. They are unobtrusive
    and speak to a time when proud restaurateurs put their framed newspaper
    clippings on the wall.

    But we didn't venture to Shiraz on a rainy mid-week evening for
    the decor ... We were there for the food and on that score Shiraz
    surpassed all our expectations. As we were finishing our meal, my
    partner summed up the experience by announcing, "This is comfort food."

    We wanted to sample as much as we could so we decided to share the
    combination plate ($10.95), which featured generous dollops of humus
    and babaganoosh, tobouleh and three large stuffed grape leaves.

    Triangles of fresh pita bread accompanied the plate.

    Each of the samples generated positive responses, as the flavors
    exploded on our palates. The humus was nutty and velvety smooth, with
    more than adequate garlic and lemon juice. The babaganoosh began with
    roasted eggplant that infused the baba with a deep, pungent almost
    smoky flavor. The tobouleh was zesty with lemon juice and perky with
    fresh, chopped parsley.

    But it was the stuffed grape leaves that elevated the plate to
    greatness. The rice, ground lamb, onions and spices of the stuffing
    perfectly complemented the oiled grape leaves.

    Other appetizers that we reluctantly bypassed included: jajek ($4.95),
    cucumber with mint and garlic in yogurt; eggplant salad ($7.50),
    grilled eggplant with onions, peppers, tomatoes, parsley, lemon and
    olive oil; and meat pie ($4.75), ground beef and spices in a pie.

    The entrees were dominated by various iterations of kebabs ($10.50 to
    $14.50) but also had traditional Middle Eastern dishes such as gyros
    ($9.25), stuffed grape leaves ($9.95) and kibbee ($10.50). A chicken
    Port Said ($15.95) and a stuffed keffa ($12.75) also stood out.

    As an appeal to traditional American tastes, Shiraz offers sirloin
    steak with mushrooms and onions ($14.50) and one seafood dish -
    grilled swordfish with broiled tomato ($14.95). There are also burgers
    ($4.75 to $8.25), and pockets both vegetarian ($5.50 to $7.95) and meat
    ($6.95 to $8.25).

    In harmony with the spirit of Shiraz, we settled on the spinach pie
    ($9.50) and eggplant kebab ($10.50).

    The individual spinach pie was delightful. The spinach mixture was
    tangy with abundant spices while the bread (made in-house) outer shell,
    formed into a triangle, was light yet hearty. The bread dough spinach
    pie is a departure from the traditional filo dough version and makes
    a different kind of treat.

    On the opposite side of our table, a plate of ground beef and ground
    lamb patties alternated with roasted eggplant on a bed of roasted
    green beans and a tomato-based sauce. Served with a delicately seasoned
    rice pilaf, the eggplant kebab was simple yet fulfilling.

    While not exotic, the meals at Shiraz are what you would expect from
    a neighborhood restaurant that caters to the Middle Eastern community.

    When it came time for dessert, Shiraz offered four choices including
    a non-traditional cream baklava ($2.75) with custard taking the place
    of the nut and honey mixture. We had to try it and were amused with
    the blending of the filo leaves and the custard.

    A good attempt, but for my taste it's all about the nuts and honey in
    baklava and with neither walnuts nor pistachios, the cream version
    wasn't my idea of baklava. Next time, I will stay with traditional
    baklava ($2.75).

    We also ordered kataif cream ($3), which was a shredded dough over a
    much too sweet custard. Coffee tended to modulate the sugary creamy
    custard but the sweetness dominated the dish. The other dessert was
    rice pudding ($2.75).

    For a night out during a busy work week, Shiraz is a perfect choice.

    Good food that is well-prepared, fast service and no bar/lounge
    distractions. Our quiet dinner for two with wine came to a very
    reasonable $69.66 before taxes and tip.

    http://www.telegram.com/article/20130801/NEWS/308019972/1312

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