ALL TALL AND CHISELLED

Sydney Morning Herald
http://www.smh.com.au/travel/activity/drives/all-tall-and-chiselled-20110728-1i1tn.html
Aug 1, 2011
Australia

Carol West is dwarfed by towering forests and majestic landscapes on
her road trip through California's interior.

"HEY, did you know we have a large Armenian population? Cherilyn
Sarkisian, that's Cher but I still call her Cherilyn, dropped out of
Fresno High at 16 and the writer William Saroyan was born here."

Stopping for a bottomless cup of coffee at a diner, an old-timer is
drip-feeding me a bottomless pit of information about Fresno. Founded
on the turn of a card about 1881, this sleepy town in California's
fertile Central Valley was a magnet for miners, cowboys and hustlers.

The Dalton brothers gang roamed unchecked and as I wander around in
the torpor-inducing midday heat, it feels hot enough to fry an egg
on the pavement.

One resident determined to escape Fresno's intense summers was
Baldasare Forestiere known locally as the "human mole" and a fine
example of one man's dream becoming his obsession. From the beginning
of the 20th century, working alone and using only hand tools, it took
him 40 years to excavate his underground home and gardens, which have
become one of Fresno's major tourist attractions.

Fresno might be an unconventional starting point for a road trip
but two of America's national parks are within striking distance and
while we plan to head west to Sonoma and San Francisco, why travel
in a straight line when there's time to meander? So we head east
as the vast farming plains of California's fruit and vegetable bowl
disappear into the towering Sierra Nevada. Quaint hamlets named Clovis
and Orange Cove nestle by bare parchment hills that rise out of green
gullies and between May and October, food festivals and agri-tours
gear up when the orchards are pregnant with stone fruit. At Sanger,
stocking up at Blossom Trail Fruit Stand, sinking my teeth into a
just-picked peach unlocks intoxicating memories of fruit tastes.

Within two hours, Highway 180 delivers us at Giant Forest Village on
the edge of Sequoia National Park. Long before trekking trails were
carved into the landscape, conservationist John Muir explored and
named Sequoia's Giant Forest. "When I entered this sublime wilderness
the day was nearly done, the trees with rosy glowing countenances
seemed to be hushed and thoughtful ... one naturally walked softly
and awestricken among them," he wrote.

Alpine wilderness enroute to Tioga Pass. Photo: Getty Images In this
shady forest of superlatives, serious tree-huggers would be hard
pressed to get their arms around the star attraction, the General
Sherman, an arboreal monarch measuring a staggering 31 metres around
its base. A prodigious grower, Sherman has been around for more than
two millenniums, is 83 metres tall, its volume making it the largest
tree on Earth.

A 20-minute loop walk through Grant's Grove takes us past General
Grant, the park's second-largest sequoia. From their lofty heights,
the two Generals appear to command regiments of trees marching across
the landscape.

A loop path leads to the Congress Trail where grandly named Congress,
Senate and Presidential trees, veiled in a white mist, metamorphose
into an enchanted forest. Turning a corner and whoa! A black bear is
on the ridge line just 15 metres away.

Our dinner is served with good old-fashioned hospitality at Wonder
Valley, a ranch resort where we join other guests who are ready to
give local yet universal issues (youth problems, health reform and
politics) a lively airing across the dinner table.

Yosemite, the big daddy of America's 390 national parks, is a vast
granite and pine wilderness about two hours north on Highway 41.

Dynamic geology has shaped a visual feast of staggering proportions
and majestic forms.

It might be wilderness but with 4 million visitors annually, it can be
pretty damned busy, so to get an overview, we take a two-hour tour of
the valley floor. At the west end, El Capitan's smooth rock face looms
more than 1000 metres above. Scraped clean by aeons of ice and snow,
this is one of the park's most popular climbs taking up to five days,
unless you're in that elite (insane?) group of speed climbers. We're
told that one virtually ran up it in just more than 2 hours.

Tunnel View gives a rock-and-awe view of Yosemite Valley framed by El
Capitan, Half Dome's sheer granite walls that vault to the sky and
Bridalveil Fall. John Muir poetically described Bridalveil Fall as
"the symphony of the Sierra" during spring's raging ice melts but by
late summer, it's cascading gently into the valley.

A $20 seven-day pass buys access to more than 1200 kilometres of
hiking trails, 20 kilometres of bike trails, peaks to climb and
wildflower-carpeted meadows to meander. The easiest way to experience
Yosemite is to hop on a free valley shuttle bus that links walks,
picnic areas, lookouts and information points.

Hiking trails get busy about 9.30am so we set out on the Mist Trail
at daybreak for the 4.8-kilometre "moderate" hike to Vernal Fall that
tumbles 97 metres into Emerald Pool. A steep granite stairway of more
than 600 steps climbs 366 metres to the head of the fall where a misty
veil of water burbles over the river's smooth granite pebbles. Only
the alarming whistles of the yellow-bellied marmot and my heaving
breath disturbs the silence.

We're fortunate it is late summer as the Tioga Pass, one of the few
roads crossing the Sierra Nevada, is still open so from Yosemite, we
decide to go over the top for the five-hour trip north to Tahoe. At
Olmsted Point, we linger to view Yosemite Valley's raw beauty, which
photographer Ansel Adams captured so evocatively in nuanced black
and white.

With ears popping and brake lights flaring, stupendous vistas distract
as we climb to a height of 3000 metres on sweeping bends that corkscrew
around towering peaks and vertiginous valleys. As the road plateaus,
the desolate surrealism of Mono Lake coolly mirrors mountains and
plains. At the small township of Lee Vining, we pull into Latte Da
for organic coffee, home-made cake and a new set of nerves. It's late
afternoon and a lowering sun dusts granite hills decorated with tufts
of wild grass in a golden light.

Descending into South Lake Tahoe, we trace its topaz waters north
past classic ski lodges. Heading west, our wheels chew up US Highway
50 accompanied by numerous trucks and rabid Republican shock jocks on
the radio. In less than two hours, we're in California's state capital,
Sacramento - set on the picturesque Sacramento River - and check into
our digs, the paddle steamer Delta King, moored on the waterfront.

Tourist business is brisk at charmingly re-created gold rush saloons
and storefronts in Old Sac, while downtown Sacramento is a friendly
city of parks and lavishly restored public buildings including the
Capitol Building where we join a free guided tour.

Evocative displays depicting the clash of cultures enthrall me at
the Indian Museum while the enormous Railway Museum's iron fenders,
gleaming locomotives and polished carriages display a world of quiet
luxury on wheels.

Continuing west to Sonoma County and only 100 kilometres north of
the Golden Gate Bridge, we dip in and out of family-owned vineyards.

Dog-friendly Mutt Lynch Winery hosts a monthly "Yappy Hour" for wine
lovers and pooches - only in California - and we end up at Quivira
Vineyards and Winery on Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. Original owners
Henry and Holly Wendt were cartographic collectors hence Quivira,
the study of old maps.

I'm told that winemaker Steven Canter worked with Torbreck's David
Powell and following the Rudolph Steiner philosophy of biodynamics,
the winery became biodynamically certified in 2005.

I won't go into details but Canter tells me it involved cow dung,
100 cow horns, a cedar tower and clean water. After steeping like tea,
what's sprayed on the Syrah vines is, he says, an instant pick-me-up.

Dropping down to San Francisco, we finally ditch the car. After all,
this is one of the world's most environmentally responsible cities,
so it's only natural to check into the top green-rated Orchard Garden
Hotel before hitting the bar at Vesuvioin North Beach. Ordering a
Jack Kerouac, we reminisce about doing it all again. Perhaps Cher
summed it up best in her inimitable rock and awe style: "If I could
turn back time ..."

The writer was the guest of California Tourism.

Trip notes Getting there

V Australia operate daily flights between Sydney and Los Angeles.

vaustralia.com, 13 82 87. American and United Airlines operate regular
one-hour flights from Los Angeles to Fresno. americanairlines.com.au,
(07) 3329 6060; unitedairlines.com.au, 13 17 77.

Getting around

Arrange a Fresno Airport pick-up through DriveAway, which have an
excellent 24/7 online booking service. 1300 723 972, driveaway.com.au.

Or try Alamo rentals, alamo.co.uk.

Staying there

Wonder Valley Ranch Resort, 6450 Elwood Road, Sanger. Special
offers include room, candlelit dinner, horse-drawn carriage ride
and deluxe continental breakfast for $US250 ($230). +1 559 787 2551,
wondervalley.com.

Yosemite's Curry Village has a range of accommodation including tent
cabins for about $US115 containing one double and three single beds.

+1 801 559 4884, yosemitepark.com.




From: A. Papazian