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Death In Turkey: Exotic Istanbul In Denial About Armenian Genocide

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  • Death In Turkey: Exotic Istanbul In Denial About Armenian Genocide

    DEATH IN TURKEY: EXOTIC ISTANBUL IN DENIAL ABOUT ARMENIAN GENOCIDE
    by John Warner

    Charleston Gazette (West Virginia)
    February 8, 2007, Thursday

    Surely, of all the cities of the world, Istanbul is the most exotic.

    Gateway to Asia. Eastern capital of the Roman Empire. City of Emperor
    Constantine. City astride two continents. Religious capital of the
    Eastern Orthodox Church. City of sultans and harems, belly dancers
    in diaphanous costume. Turkish baths. The Topkapi Palace and the
    Dolmabace Palace. Armenian genocide. The Hagia Sophia. The Blue
    Mosque. Bektashi and Whirling Dervishs. The Sufis. The Grand Souk.

    Byzantium. The mythological Jason passed this way in search of the
    Golden Fleece.

    Here are minarets and calls to prayer and fine Turkish carpets. Here
    Xerxes led his Persian armies into Greece. Here later Alexander
    crossed to Asia in his quest to subdue the world. Ataturk. The Ottoman
    Empire. Janissaries. "It's Istanbul, not Constantinople now," we used
    to sing. The name was changed in 1453 - the year that city fell to
    the Turks. A few miles to the south is the site of the tragic battle
    of Gallipoli in 1915.

    Earlier this year the city of Istanbul was rocked by the murder of a
    noted Armenian journalist, Hrant Dink, the 52-year-old editor of the
    Turkish-Armenian newspaper, Agos. Dink was gunned down by a teenage
    boy, apparently in reprisal for claiming that the death of 1 million
    Turkish Armenians was genocide. You are not allowed to say that in
    Turkey. You are not allowed to speak of the killing of a million
    Armenians in the second decade of the 20th century. And for some
    strange reason, the fact of that genocide has never been officially
    recognized even by our own government.

    I would not mention this, except that it has become an issue in
    American foreign policy. There is a push, more on the Democratic
    side of the aisle, to assert an official recognition of the Armenian
    genocide, sometimes called the first Holocaust of the Twentieth
    Century. But in Turkey there is complete denial of that fact, and to
    recognize the event in Congress will threaten U.S.-Turkish relations.

    The story is told many times over in the dusty books on back shelves
    of libraries all across America. It is told a hundred times over on
    the World Wide Web. Just go to any search engine and type the words
    "Armenian Genocide." Hundreds of grizzly photographs will make your
    stomach turn. Starvation. Decapitation. Death marches and macabre
    train rides. Pyramids of human skulls. Massacre. Still, it is verboten.

    Perhaps you can picture, in your mind's eye, the region in and around
    eastern Turkey, defined on the north by the Caucasus Mountains,
    particularly by the tall Mount Ararat - where, according to the
    book of Genesis, Noah's ark first found dry land. Here, between the
    Caspian and the Black Seas, dwell dozens of competing ethnic and
    language groups. Here today meet the modern nations of Armenia,
    Georgia, Azerbaijan, Russia, Iran, Iraq, Syria, and Turkey. Here
    dwell the Kurds and the Armenians, Muslims and Christians, struggling
    throughout the 20th century for statehood, land and recognition.

    Caught in the vortex between Russia and the Ottoman Empire.

    For centuries the Armenians, Kurds and Turks got along OK. The
    Armenians were considered loyal to the Ottoman Empire, accepting with
    little protest their second-class citizenship. But with the rise of
    nationalism in the 19th century and the demise and "decrepitude" of the
    old Ottoman Empire - called the "Sick Man of Europe" first by Russian
    Tsar Nicholas I - Armenians began to suffer. While the Turks wanted
    to expand their dominion east into what is today known as Turkistan,
    Armenians demanded their own independence and national state. They
    were an obstruction to Turkish ambitions. In the Russo-Turkish War of
    1877-78, Armenians sided with Russia, and Christian Russians supported
    their religious brothers. After that war, the Armenians were blamed
    for the defeat of Turks at the hands of "Christian" Russia.

    On April 24, 1915, hundreds of Armenians were rounded up and gunned
    down in the city of Istanbul. One million Armenians are said to have
    died in the next three years. But one must never speak of this within
    the confines of modern Turkey. It simply did not happen.

    Hrank Dink, the Armenian editor, dared to say what could not be said.

    He paid the high price for those words. And today there is a renewed
    call for recognition of the Armenian Genocide.

    I was the first guest to be seated in the coffee shop at the Nippon
    Hotel in downtown Istanbul one morning in January more than a dozen
    years ago. Seven o'clock. I ordered my coffee and read an English
    language newspaper. And out of the window I saw a big black bear on
    the city street, leashed to a fellow out for his morning walk. I asked
    the waitress. "Gypsy and dancing bear," she said in her pretty-good
    English. Surely this is an exotic city.

    Dr. Warner, professor emeritus at West Virginia Wesleyan College,
    is a Gazette contributing columnist.
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