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A street in the sky

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  • A street in the sky

    A street in the sky

    James Buchan applauds Alaa al Aswany's Arabic bestseller about sex and
    power, The Yacoubian Building

    Saturday February 17, 2007
    The Guardian


    Buy The Yacoubian Building at the Guardian bookshop

    The Yacoubian Building
    by Alaa al Aswany
    255pp, Fourth Estate, £14.99

    The Yacoubian Building is the sort of dense neighbourhood novel which,
    though quite out of style when set in London or Paris, has been
    revived for the banlieue of downtown Cairo. With its parade of
    big-city characters, both ludicrous and tender, its warm heart and
    political indignation, it belongs to a literary tradition that goes
    back to the 1840s, to Eugène Sue and Charles Dickens. Nearer at hand,
    it stands midway between the foundation novel of Egyptian Arabic,
    Naguib Mahfouz's Zaqaq al Midaq (Midaq Alley, 1947) and the modern
    Egyptian television serial.

    Published in Egypt in 2002 as Imarat Yaqubyan, the novel has been a
    bestseller in Arabic. While Mahfouz had a greater success in English
    and French than in his mother tongue, the Arabic Yacoubian is now in
    its ninth edition. It has been filmed (by Marwan Hamed) with a care
    and expense unprecedented in the Egyptian cinema. Mahfouz set his
    novel in a poor working-class district, seeking to portray the changes
    wrought by the second world war, and the British Eighth Army, to
    sexual morals and long-lived social traditions. The Yacoubian Building
    unfolds in the former European quarter downtown at the time of the
    1990 Gulf war.

    The Yacoubian building itself is a once-handsome art deco block on the
    boulevard known now as Talaat Harb, but here called by its old name of
    Suleiman Basha Street. Built in 1934 for an Armenian millionaire, its
    fall from grace is for this author just one aspect of Egypt's general
    dilapidation. The pashas, cotton millionaires and foreigners who
    occupied the apartments were all chased out at the coup d'état of 1952
    and replaced by military officers and their country wives.

    With the opening of the country to foreign capital in the 1970s, the
    downtown district became outmoded, and apartments in the building were
    let out as offices (including the clinic where Alaa al Aswany first
    practised as a dentist). Whether in fact, or merely in fiction, old
    store-rooms on the roof of the building are rented in the novel to
    poor immigrants from the villages, so that Aswany manages to have both
    a middle-class apartment block and a teeming Mahfouzian alley in the
    air.

    The characters are a sort of compendium. There is Zaki Bey, an elderly
    roué with his pre-revolutionary manners and liking for dope and women;
    Hatim Rashid, a newspaper editor who pursues rough young men from the
    sticks; and Hagg Muhammad Azzam, a self-made millionaire with a shady
    past and political ambitions. On the roof, the shirtmaker Malak is
    working out a deep-laid plan to capture an apartment downstairs.

    The heterosexual romantic interest is supplied by Taha, the bright and
    pious doorman's son, and his girlfriend Buhayna. When Taha proves too
    honest for the Police Academy, he drifts towards Muslim militancy and
    away from Buhayna, who is meanwhile finding that there are ways of
    making money out of men without ruining herself for the marriage
    market.

    If the characters, good and bad, educated or not, have a quality in
    common, it is a sort of big-city sophistication. The plotting is neat,
    the episodes are funny and sad, and there are deaths and weddings
    aplenty. For all the Mahfouzian decor - prostitution, hashish,
    homosexuality - there is none of the oddity, even clownishness, of
    character or the intensity of savour and texture of Midaq
    Alley. Aswany's is an altogether more worldly Egypt, and one that is
    in a hurry to get somewhere or other.

    Mahfouz always doubted whether virtue could survive on an empty
    stomach. For Aswany, political probity and sexual virtue in Egypt
    have been obliterated by the British, the monarchy, the Nasserists,
    the clergy and now the nouveaux riches. As his unamiable political
    fixer Kamal el Fouli pronounces: "The Egyptians are the easiest people
    in the world to rule. The moment you take power, they submit to you
    and grovel to you and you can do what you want with them." That is not
    true, as the British and the monarchy found to their cost, but you can
    see why his characters should think it so.

    Even Islamic militancy, or what the Egyptians call gihad, is just a
    drug like Black Label whisky or picking up police recruits or dope or
    groping young women on crowded buses in Tahrir Square. Yet Aswany is
    so good-natured that even his terrorist is allowed to enjoy, before
    his martyrdom, a paradisial marriage portrayed in the shimmering
    palette of gihadi bad taste. It is balanced by a wedding in a whisky
    bar, where a good-hearted French lady, a survivor of the good times,
    sings "La Vie en Rose".

    For all its risqué material, and its parade of sodomy and scripture,
    The Yacoubian Building is restrained in its portrayal of the actual
    relations of power and wealth in Hosni Mubarak's Egypt. When Hagg
    Muhammad Azzam, desperate to protect his business interests, seeks a
    meeting with "the Big Man" at his cement Versailles, he is greeted not
    by a person but by a disembodied voice through a loudspeaker. The veil
    of power is intact. The truth is that in Mubarak's Egypt, just as in
    Saddam Hussein's Baghdad or even the shah's Tehran, sex is one thing
    but the boss is quite another, and the difference is a matter of life
    and death.

    · James Buchan has translated from Persian Hushang Golshiri's Shazdeh
    Ehtejab (The Prince, Harvill Secker)
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