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Today's Zaman, Turkey
June 30 2007
Exploring Military Culture in Ýstanbul
With the inescapable heated discussions about Iraq, Kurdish terrorism
and the now infamous April `e-memo,' it is impossible to deny that
the military is the talk of Turkey.
The conversations are supplemented by newspapers and television, and
everything from the role of a military in a democracy to the best way
to ensure internal security is up for debate. The military, now so
ubiquitous in quotidian life, is equally present in any cultural
exploration in Turkey. Be it Military Police outside Dolmabahçe
Palace or naval vessels parked outside the Ýstanbul Modern, the
Turkish Armed Forces' (TSK) presence is felt. The military is not
only visible in their official capacity; in Ýstanbul one can't help
but stumble across the abundance of historical and cultural reminders
of this powerful state organ. In addition to numerous monuments in
honor of martial achievements, the city boasts two institutions
specifically designed to educate about the military: the Naval Museum
and the Military Museum.
A visit to the Naval Museum reveals the perennial cultural influence
of the Ottoman Empire on modern Turkey as well as the history and
role of the Turkish Navy. The first thing to be noticed upon when
arriving at the museum is the beautiful sculpture and cannon filled
garden that is sandwiched at the back between the building itself and
the Bosporus. The garden is patrolled by young sailors in white
uniforms, who reinforce the sense of discipline and pride echoed in
the exhibits inside. The garden is open to patrons via the main
building, and is a littoral display of naval objects, acting as a
tribute to those who served. Once inside the building, it is almost
impossible to ignore the section devoted to celebrating the deep
pride and respect shared for the republic's origins. The other half
of the first floor acts as a showcase for Ottoman era artifacts,
including a stunning globe with Ottoman script once used aboard a
naval vessel. It is on the second floor, though, that the museum
reveals its true purpose: raising awareness about the relationship of
Turkey to its military institutions. As a foreigner in Turkey,
navigating the English language descriptions provided gives a sense
of how the nation views its military, a view which is perhaps an
unexpected one for a non-Turk. The first ideas brought about by the
idea of a Navy might be its militaristic actions, but in the case of
the Ottoman Empire, it was in fact not just a means of protection,
but a way to build trade routes and establish relations with other
cultures across their empire. The national approach is further
illuminated by the placards on the wall, which explain in detail the
victories and defensive holds, whereas any eventual defeat is
mentioned in passing and in the case of World War I, only in
reference to the independence movement launched by the Navy under the
command of Atatürk. This goes to show the immense pride the Turkish
people have in both their military victories and their historic
willingness to remain a sovereign entity.
This same pride is manifest at the Military Museum off Cumhuriyet
Caddesi, but the museum approaches it in a very different way. Gone
are the instructive placards, replaced with the undeniable grandeur
of the building and exhibits that dare the visitor not to be awed.
The building, which once acted as a military school, is a jewel-box
with long halls and high ceilings, and prominently showcases Turkish
and Ottoman weapons from centuries past. School children frequently
fill the halls, led around by teachers ebulliently explaining
historic victories pictured on the walls. It is organized by halls
devoted to a wide-ranging number of conflicts, people, and issues.
Perhaps the most interesting facet is that the museum does not shy
away from difficult subjects in its history, namely some that it dubs
`issues with Armenia.' The hall devoted to this subject provides some
block text and a number of translated documents from the time that
provide fascinating evidence to help explain to an outsider the
widely held Turkish perspective on this still contentious issue. Nor
does the museum neglect its exterior in favor of its showy and
artifact-rich inside; regular concerts are held in the gardens to
demonstrate the pomp and practices of regiments past.
These two museums lend insight not only to the history of the TSK but
also help explain the sentiments surrounding them in the mind of
Turkish society. The academic culture of Ýstanbul helps pave a path
of understanding about the role of the military in Turkey as well as
in the current debates. The Turks display great pride in their
military accomplishments, expressed in addition to their renowned
love for their country. These two Ýstanbul museums are deserving
monuments to this tradition, both in recognizing the value of this
national institution and educating the world about its historical and
contemporary importance.
*BA candidate in military science
30.06.2007
DAVID MERAHN* ÝSTANBUL
June 30 2007
Exploring Military Culture in Ýstanbul
With the inescapable heated discussions about Iraq, Kurdish terrorism
and the now infamous April `e-memo,' it is impossible to deny that
the military is the talk of Turkey.
The conversations are supplemented by newspapers and television, and
everything from the role of a military in a democracy to the best way
to ensure internal security is up for debate. The military, now so
ubiquitous in quotidian life, is equally present in any cultural
exploration in Turkey. Be it Military Police outside Dolmabahçe
Palace or naval vessels parked outside the Ýstanbul Modern, the
Turkish Armed Forces' (TSK) presence is felt. The military is not
only visible in their official capacity; in Ýstanbul one can't help
but stumble across the abundance of historical and cultural reminders
of this powerful state organ. In addition to numerous monuments in
honor of martial achievements, the city boasts two institutions
specifically designed to educate about the military: the Naval Museum
and the Military Museum.
A visit to the Naval Museum reveals the perennial cultural influence
of the Ottoman Empire on modern Turkey as well as the history and
role of the Turkish Navy. The first thing to be noticed upon when
arriving at the museum is the beautiful sculpture and cannon filled
garden that is sandwiched at the back between the building itself and
the Bosporus. The garden is patrolled by young sailors in white
uniforms, who reinforce the sense of discipline and pride echoed in
the exhibits inside. The garden is open to patrons via the main
building, and is a littoral display of naval objects, acting as a
tribute to those who served. Once inside the building, it is almost
impossible to ignore the section devoted to celebrating the deep
pride and respect shared for the republic's origins. The other half
of the first floor acts as a showcase for Ottoman era artifacts,
including a stunning globe with Ottoman script once used aboard a
naval vessel. It is on the second floor, though, that the museum
reveals its true purpose: raising awareness about the relationship of
Turkey to its military institutions. As a foreigner in Turkey,
navigating the English language descriptions provided gives a sense
of how the nation views its military, a view which is perhaps an
unexpected one for a non-Turk. The first ideas brought about by the
idea of a Navy might be its militaristic actions, but in the case of
the Ottoman Empire, it was in fact not just a means of protection,
but a way to build trade routes and establish relations with other
cultures across their empire. The national approach is further
illuminated by the placards on the wall, which explain in detail the
victories and defensive holds, whereas any eventual defeat is
mentioned in passing and in the case of World War I, only in
reference to the independence movement launched by the Navy under the
command of Atatürk. This goes to show the immense pride the Turkish
people have in both their military victories and their historic
willingness to remain a sovereign entity.
This same pride is manifest at the Military Museum off Cumhuriyet
Caddesi, but the museum approaches it in a very different way. Gone
are the instructive placards, replaced with the undeniable grandeur
of the building and exhibits that dare the visitor not to be awed.
The building, which once acted as a military school, is a jewel-box
with long halls and high ceilings, and prominently showcases Turkish
and Ottoman weapons from centuries past. School children frequently
fill the halls, led around by teachers ebulliently explaining
historic victories pictured on the walls. It is organized by halls
devoted to a wide-ranging number of conflicts, people, and issues.
Perhaps the most interesting facet is that the museum does not shy
away from difficult subjects in its history, namely some that it dubs
`issues with Armenia.' The hall devoted to this subject provides some
block text and a number of translated documents from the time that
provide fascinating evidence to help explain to an outsider the
widely held Turkish perspective on this still contentious issue. Nor
does the museum neglect its exterior in favor of its showy and
artifact-rich inside; regular concerts are held in the gardens to
demonstrate the pomp and practices of regiments past.
These two museums lend insight not only to the history of the TSK but
also help explain the sentiments surrounding them in the mind of
Turkish society. The academic culture of Ýstanbul helps pave a path
of understanding about the role of the military in Turkey as well as
in the current debates. The Turks display great pride in their
military accomplishments, expressed in addition to their renowned
love for their country. These two Ýstanbul museums are deserving
monuments to this tradition, both in recognizing the value of this
national institution and educating the world about its historical and
contemporary importance.
*BA candidate in military science
30.06.2007
DAVID MERAHN* ÝSTANBUL