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MY KIND OF TOWN ALEPPO
by Greg Malouf
The Sunday Telegraph (LONDON)
May 20, 2007 Sunday
Why Aleppo? I've done a lot of travelling around the Middle
East exploring the cuisine for my books, and the ancient trading
centre of Aleppo in the northern part of Syria is unquestionably my
favourite city. It's retained a magical unspoilt feel, has a massive
citadel (above left), sprawling medieval souk and exquisite Ottoman
buildings. More to the point, it has a unique food culture that's
been greatly influenced by its Armenian population.
What do you miss most when you are away? Sour cherry kebabs,
mulberry ice cream, spicy sujuk sausage ... and also the legendary
Syrian hospitality, which makes it one of the friendliest and least
hard-work Arab countries to visit. The phrase you'll hear most often
while visiting Aleppo is: "My friend! You are welcome in my country!"
What's the first thing you do when you return? Eat. I dive into the
souks to re-familiarise myself with the food scene, stopping on the
way to grab a bowl of foul medames (bean stew) from one of the many
hole-in-the-wall cafes, and a glass of freshly squeezed pomegranate
juice.
Where's the best place to stay? I like El Mandaloun in Jdeideh,
the city's charming Armenian quarter (Al Telal-Hazazeh Street; 00963
21 228 3008; www.mandalounhotel.com; doubles from pounds 40). It's a
boutique hotel in a converted 17th-century merchant house, with enough
pretty touches (antique tiles, wooden shutters, fragrant courtyard
with tortoise) to satisfy the most ardent Orientalist.
Where would you meet friends for a drink? The shabby and eccentric old
Baron Hotel is a perennial favourite for nostalgia buffs (8 Sharia
al-Baron; 221 0880). I also quite like the cosy underground bar in
Sissi House (Sharai as-Sissi; 221 9411).
Where are your favourite places for lunch? I'd go for street food. At
any number of small cafes or food stalls in and around the souks you
can feast on spicy red lentil soup, garlic-scented charcoal chicken,
toshka (toasted cheese sandwiches), savoury pastries or crisp golden
falafel in pita - all for next to nothing.
And for dinner? In Jdeideh there are several excellent restaurants
in converted old Arab houses. My favourites are Sissi House (Sharia
as-Sissi; 221 9411), Beit Wakil (Sharia as-Sissi; 221 7169) and
Yasmeen (Sharia al-Kayyali; 222 4462). All have charming courtyard
settings with tinkling fountains, intricate lace stonework and Arab
knick-knacks, and all offer more or less the same local specialties.
Mezze dishes include muhammara (spicy red pepper and walnut dip), tangy
fresh za-atar (wild thyme) salad topped with shredded white cheese,
chilli-flecked lamb tartare and creamy yoghurt cheese sprinkled with
mint and olive oil. If you've still got room, try the famous lamb
kebabs in a tangy sweet-sour cherry sauce. Wash it all down with
local beer.
Where would you send a first-time visitor? The souks, obviously - go
early in the morning, just as the place is coming to life. Climb to
the top of the massive citadel for some respite from the chaos and an
amazing bird's-eye view of the city. For brave souls, I'd recommend a
few hours at the Hammam Yalbougha al-Nasry near the citadel (362 3154)
- check to see whether it's a men's or women's day. You'll emerge raw
and red-faced, and sometime it's hard to know whether the experience
leaves you energised or exhausted.
What would you tell them to avoid? Unless you're going for a drink
at the Baron Hotel, I'd steer clear of the New City, which is noisy,
dirty and charmless.
Public transport or taxi? Keep to Jdeideh and the Old City and
everything is pretty much in walking distance, but taxis are cheap
and plentiful.
Handbag or moneybelt? Handbag. Aleppo is safe and virtually crime-free
- it certainly doesn't have the same drink or drug culture as many
large Western cities. Nor does it have the same hassle as, say,
Morocco or Egypt.
What should I take home? Local textiles, ornate metal trays or coffee
pots, inlaid backgammon sets, handmade soaps and hammam products,
Berber jewellery - you'll find them all in the souks. Orient House
on Hatab Square in Jdeideh also has a good, if more expensive, range
of antiques and bric-a-brac.
And if I've only time for one shop? There's a handicraft market on
the south-west side of the citadel (Souq ash-Shouna) where prices
are regulated and you don't have the stress of haggling.
Greg Malouf is a chef and food writer, specialising in Middle-Eastern
cuisine. His latest book, co-written with Lucy Malouf, is Arabesque:
A chef's journey through Lebanon and Syria (Quadrille, pounds 30)
by Greg Malouf
The Sunday Telegraph (LONDON)
May 20, 2007 Sunday
Why Aleppo? I've done a lot of travelling around the Middle
East exploring the cuisine for my books, and the ancient trading
centre of Aleppo in the northern part of Syria is unquestionably my
favourite city. It's retained a magical unspoilt feel, has a massive
citadel (above left), sprawling medieval souk and exquisite Ottoman
buildings. More to the point, it has a unique food culture that's
been greatly influenced by its Armenian population.
What do you miss most when you are away? Sour cherry kebabs,
mulberry ice cream, spicy sujuk sausage ... and also the legendary
Syrian hospitality, which makes it one of the friendliest and least
hard-work Arab countries to visit. The phrase you'll hear most often
while visiting Aleppo is: "My friend! You are welcome in my country!"
What's the first thing you do when you return? Eat. I dive into the
souks to re-familiarise myself with the food scene, stopping on the
way to grab a bowl of foul medames (bean stew) from one of the many
hole-in-the-wall cafes, and a glass of freshly squeezed pomegranate
juice.
Where's the best place to stay? I like El Mandaloun in Jdeideh,
the city's charming Armenian quarter (Al Telal-Hazazeh Street; 00963
21 228 3008; www.mandalounhotel.com; doubles from pounds 40). It's a
boutique hotel in a converted 17th-century merchant house, with enough
pretty touches (antique tiles, wooden shutters, fragrant courtyard
with tortoise) to satisfy the most ardent Orientalist.
Where would you meet friends for a drink? The shabby and eccentric old
Baron Hotel is a perennial favourite for nostalgia buffs (8 Sharia
al-Baron; 221 0880). I also quite like the cosy underground bar in
Sissi House (Sharai as-Sissi; 221 9411).
Where are your favourite places for lunch? I'd go for street food. At
any number of small cafes or food stalls in and around the souks you
can feast on spicy red lentil soup, garlic-scented charcoal chicken,
toshka (toasted cheese sandwiches), savoury pastries or crisp golden
falafel in pita - all for next to nothing.
And for dinner? In Jdeideh there are several excellent restaurants
in converted old Arab houses. My favourites are Sissi House (Sharia
as-Sissi; 221 9411), Beit Wakil (Sharia as-Sissi; 221 7169) and
Yasmeen (Sharia al-Kayyali; 222 4462). All have charming courtyard
settings with tinkling fountains, intricate lace stonework and Arab
knick-knacks, and all offer more or less the same local specialties.
Mezze dishes include muhammara (spicy red pepper and walnut dip), tangy
fresh za-atar (wild thyme) salad topped with shredded white cheese,
chilli-flecked lamb tartare and creamy yoghurt cheese sprinkled with
mint and olive oil. If you've still got room, try the famous lamb
kebabs in a tangy sweet-sour cherry sauce. Wash it all down with
local beer.
Where would you send a first-time visitor? The souks, obviously - go
early in the morning, just as the place is coming to life. Climb to
the top of the massive citadel for some respite from the chaos and an
amazing bird's-eye view of the city. For brave souls, I'd recommend a
few hours at the Hammam Yalbougha al-Nasry near the citadel (362 3154)
- check to see whether it's a men's or women's day. You'll emerge raw
and red-faced, and sometime it's hard to know whether the experience
leaves you energised or exhausted.
What would you tell them to avoid? Unless you're going for a drink
at the Baron Hotel, I'd steer clear of the New City, which is noisy,
dirty and charmless.
Public transport or taxi? Keep to Jdeideh and the Old City and
everything is pretty much in walking distance, but taxis are cheap
and plentiful.
Handbag or moneybelt? Handbag. Aleppo is safe and virtually crime-free
- it certainly doesn't have the same drink or drug culture as many
large Western cities. Nor does it have the same hassle as, say,
Morocco or Egypt.
What should I take home? Local textiles, ornate metal trays or coffee
pots, inlaid backgammon sets, handmade soaps and hammam products,
Berber jewellery - you'll find them all in the souks. Orient House
on Hatab Square in Jdeideh also has a good, if more expensive, range
of antiques and bric-a-brac.
And if I've only time for one shop? There's a handicraft market on
the south-west side of the citadel (Souq ash-Shouna) where prices
are regulated and you don't have the stress of haggling.
Greg Malouf is a chef and food writer, specialising in Middle-Eastern
cuisine. His latest book, co-written with Lucy Malouf, is Arabesque:
A chef's journey through Lebanon and Syria (Quadrille, pounds 30)