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Book Review: Self-Portrait, Assembled, by a Son of Istanbul

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  • Book Review: Self-Portrait, Assembled, by a Son of Istanbul

    The New York Times
    October 5, 2007 Friday
    Late Edition - Final

    Self-Portrait, Assembled, by a Son of Istanbul

    By WILLIAM GRIMES


    OTHER COLORS
    Essays and a Story
    By Orhan Pamuk
    Illustrated. 433 pages. Alfred A. Knopf. $27.95.


    Taken together, the scattered essays and sketches that make up
    ''Other Colors'' can be read as a loose sort of autobiography, Orhan
    Pamuk writes in his preface. A stray remark here, a detail there, and
    something like a life emerges. We learn that Mr. Pamuk, Turkey's most
    eminent novelist and winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature in 2006,
    dreamed of being a painter for most of his childhood and youth;
    studied architecture but abandoned the pursuit after three years; was
    once a leftist; writes very slowly; lived in New York for three
    years; and after the great Istanbul earthquake of 1999, constructed a
    shelter made of books under his desk.

    That last bit sticks in the mind. It's the perfect emblem for a
    writer attuned to the cultural and political fault lines running
    underneath modern Turkey, and passionate about the novelist's power
    to make his own world through words. Mr. Pamuk, urbane and
    self-mocking, admires his little literary fort.

    ''Having assured myself that it was strong enough to withstand
    falling concrete,'' he writes, ''I lay down there for a few
    earthquake drills, assuming a fetal position as instructed to protect
    my kidneys.'' Surrounded by books, he feels safe enough and decides
    to skip a long list of recommended precautions.

    Mr. Pamuk devotes two essays to the big quake. They are among the
    best in a grab bag that includes wispy throwaway newspaper sketches,
    prefaces to a variety of classic and modern novels (including his
    own), his Nobel acceptance speech, several political essays and a
    short story. Nearly all of them end up, one way or another,
    addressing art, identity and cultural politics on the European
    perimeter.

    The least successful do so directly. Mr. Pamuk, a Westernizer and a
    liberal, believes in a future for Turkey founded on freedom of speech
    and religion. His views have brought down the wrath of Turkey's
    authoritarian leaders, notably when he has argued against the
    government-enforced taboo that forbids discussion of the mass murder
    of Armenians and Kurds in Turkey.

    As a political writer, however, he rarely advances beyond noble
    sentiment. Turkey should be included in the European Union, he
    maintains, because Europe, for reasons he never really explains,
    would be incomplete without Turkey. Besides, Turks would feel hurt to
    be left out.

    Mr. Pamuk returns to form every time he hits the streets of Istanbul,
    his native city and reservoir of images. He writes brilliantly about
    the hot dog, one of the street foods, along with doner kebabs and the
    pizzalike treat known as lahmacun, that seduced him and his brother,
    in defiance of their mother's strict orders. It tasted good -- topped
    with tomato sauce, tomatoes, pickles and mustard -- but it also
    functioned as a potent symbol.

    ''To leave behind Islamic tradition, whose ideas about food were
    embedded in ideas about mothers, women and sacred privacy -- to
    embrace modern life and become a city dweller -- it was necessary to
    be ready and willing to eat food even if you didn't know where, how
    or why it was made,'' he writes.

    Likewise, the old coal-fired ferries that ply Istanbul's waters bring
    out Mr. Pamuk's most colorful, ruminative writing. So do barbers. Mr.
    Pamuk, as a boy, spent productive time in Istanbul's barber shops,
    feasting on a humor magazine called Vulture and keeping his ears open
    for a conversational style heard nowhere else, a kind of male gossip
    elicited, with great subtlety, by the barber himself.

    In ''My Father's Suitcase,'' his Nobel lecture, Mr. Pamuk writes that
    as a child and as a young writer, he felt as if he lived far from the
    center. That has changed.

    ''For me the center of the world is Istanbul,'' he writes. ''This is
    not just because I have lived there all my life, but because for the
    last 33 years I have been narrating its streets, its bridges, its
    people, its dogs, its houses, its mosques, its fountains, its strange
    heroes, its shops, its famous characters, its dark spots, its days
    and its nights, making them part of me, embracing them all.''

    The Istanbul essays in ''Other Colors'' -- which amplify his 2005
    memoir, ''Istanbul: Memories and the City'' -- draw their strength
    from the same sources as his fiction, and their comedy, too, notably
    the little gem on watching the film ''Cleopatra'' in the 1960s.

    At the same time, Mr. Pamuk instantly picks up the frequency of
    writers who feel themselves to be on the periphery, like Mario Vargas
    Llosa, or Dostoyevsky, the subject of three essays in this
    collection. The cultural predicament of Dostoyevsky is Mr. Pamuk's
    own, and he zeroes right in on it. The true subject of ''Notes From
    Underground,'' he writes, is ''the jealousy, anger and pride of a man
    who cannot make himself into a European.''

    Mr. Pamuk understands cultural isolation, more deeply than most
    writers, perhaps, because he regards reading as a profoundly
    isolating experience. The writers he most admires speak to him with
    frightening intimacy.

    ''I felt as if Dostoyevsky were whispering arcane things about life
    and humanity, things no one knew, for my ears only,'' he writes.
    Almost in passing he offers a probing, quite personal analysis of
    degradation as a perverse pleasure in the world of Dostoyevsky's
    novels.

    The linked sequence of essays about New York counts as a bonus.
    Having been mugged, Mr. Pamuk spends a day with the police. He
    ponders the mysteries of cinnamon rolls, runs into a long-lost
    Turkish friend in a subway station and finally figures out why New
    Yorkers hate smoking so much.

    ''They were not running away from the cancer that smoking might
    cause, but from the smoker,'' he concludes. ''I would only gradually
    come to understand that my cigarette to them represented a lack of
    willpower and of culture, a disordered life, indifference and
    (America's worst nightmare) failure.''

    When let loose, Mr. Pamuk drops observations like this with deceptive
    ease. An expert reader of Istanbul's multilayered text, he must have
    found New York's embedded meanings child's play to extract. It's such
    a small town, after all, by comparison.
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