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From the Margins: Journey to the other side of the world

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  • From the Margins: Journey to the other side of the world

    Glendale News Press
    Oct 12 2007


    FROM THE MARGINS:

    Journey to the other side of the world
    By PATRICK AZADIAN


    In Armenia, it's said that if you are a nice person, Mount Ararat
    will show her face to you.

    In search of whether I was a nice, I recently set out on a two-week
    journey to Armenia.

    The long trip on economy class felt inhumane. This was my first such
    trip to the other side of the world in 30 years.

    A German couple sat next to me on the way to London. Despite our
    mutual attempts to be friendly, our lack of a common language didn't
    allow me to cut the perceived length of the trip via socializing.

    The London-Yerevan stretch was a different story. I had a whole row
    to stretch on and a friend on the same flight. Sara Anjargolian was
    going to Armenia for a photography project capturing the lives of
    separated families due to economic hardship.

    The plane arrived at the Zvartnots Airport at 4:25 a.m.

    I arrived exhausted. I hoped not all members of my family showed up
    at the airport. I'd be too tired to show my excitement. Luckily, only
    a brigade of three brave relatives greeted me.

    The next morning, I set out for a walk in Yerevan.

    Mt. Ararat reluctantly showed her face to me. Sitting there in the
    early fall smog, she was as honest as a young nun. She seemed to say:
    `I don't know you, but I will give you the benefit of the doubt.'

    Seeing today's Armenia without historical context is meaningless.
    This was a land that had been under Arab, Turkish, Persian and
    Russian domination for centuries. Observing Armenia without
    remembering that many of her children were descendants of the
    survivors of the Armenian Genocide was hollow. Being forced to choose
    the lesser of the two evils, the nation had also endured the Soviet
    experimentation in socialism.

    Even today, neighbors to the west and the east are intent on
    squeezing the life out of these people just because they dare to
    believe in their right for self-determination.

    With the scope of history in mind, it wasn't difficult to understand
    the attempt to live the good life in Yerevan. Despite economic
    hardship, people maintained a good and happy appearance.
    Western-style cafes, bars, clubs, casinos and retail stores were
    abundant.

    A bar called Texas carried a poster of Bob Marley at the entrance. I
    gave it B+ for effort. An `Irish' pub called Shamrock carried
    Bushmills whiskey on the menu. It got an A- for authenticity.

    Despite the urban craziness, Yerevan is safe. People have no fear of
    walking home at late hours cutting through dark allies. American and
    European visitors look very much at ease.

    Tourists' worst fears come in the shape of ice cubes threatening to
    cause chaos in their stomachs. In my case, the imbalance never
    arrived.

    Many taxis carried U.S. flags from their rearview mirrors. Armenia
    reminded me of the scrawny good kid in class who never got any praise
    from her teachers.

    In contrast, the neighbor's rowdy kids were bestowed with shiny stars
    every time they sat quiet for a few minutes.

    In the midst of this newfound freedom, Armenians hadn't forgotten
    their commitment to the arts. During my two-week stay, I visited five
    museums, one contemporary art center with current exhibits and a
    classic performance by a local orchestra and a composer. A feat that
    even a New York art lover would envy.

    In Armenia, suffering hadn't only been the privilege of the common
    people. Two of the artists on my list, Sergei Parajanov and Yervand
    Kochar, had the badge of honor for spending time in Soviet prisons.

    Mt. Ararat showed her full snow-covered self to me at the airport on
    my way back home. She was as stunning as a pagan goddess, eternal as
    the universe and as majestic as only herself. Noah had also found her
    trustworthy enough to rest the future of humanity on her peak.

    I asked her to continue to keep an eye on this piece of land. Just
    like any other member of humanity, the Armenian people had the right
    not only to survive and struggle, but to live, prosper and, God
    forbid, even have some fun. Perhaps their time has finally arrived,
    if they are willing to take full advantage of this historic
    opportunity.

    As I entered the plane, I had a wish for this long-suffering people.
    Someday, friends like Sara would be hard pressed to find suffering
    due to economic hardship and foreign domination.

    - PATRICK AZADIAN is a writer and the creative director of a local
    marketing and graphic design studio living in Glendale. He may be
    reached at respond@ fromthemargins.net.
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