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Iran Holds Its Black Church As Symbol Of Tolerance

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  • Iran Holds Its Black Church As Symbol Of Tolerance

    IRAN HOLDS ITS BLACK CHURCH AS SYMBOL OF TOLERANCE
    By Fredrik Dahl and Reza Derakhshi

    Washington Post, DC
    http://blogs.reuters.com/faithworld
    Reuters
    Oct 24 2007

    QARA KELISA, Iran (Reuters) - The last priest left the Black Church
    more than half a century ago and now the picture on the wall of a
    former monk's cell is of the Islamic Republic's founder Ayatollah
    Ruhollah Khomeini, not Jesus.

    But Iran says this medieval Armenian Christian retreat in a mountainous
    region close to Turkey and Armenia shows it is observing the rights
    of other faiths.

    It denies charges from Iran's old foe the United States that it
    discriminates against Christian and other religious minorities. The
    Armenian bishop in Tehran tells Reuters such talk is a Western
    "innovation."

    The Shi'ite Muslim country has applied for Qara Kelisa, or the Black
    Church, to be recognized as a United Nations World Heritage site,
    to join the Persepolis and other archaeological treasures.

    "This is a symbol of the co-existence of different religions and
    ethnicities," said senior conservationist Khosro Farri of Iran's
    Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts and Tourism Organisation.

    The numbers of Christians and Jews in Iran have dwindled since the
    1979 Islamic revolution, and people who are members of minorities can
    be reluctant to speak when asked how the authorities deal with them.

    But several Armenians in this northwest region said they were treated
    like any other Iranian.

    "I don't have any problems living here," said Aldagesh Malik, an
    elderly Armenian man in the village of Gardabad, a three-hour drive
    south of the church.

    His village used to have a majority Armenian population but most
    have moved in search of a better future in Iran's cities or abroad --
    some as far as the United States.

    Sitting and chatting with a Muslim neighbor, Malik said: "Your religion
    doesn't make any difference. We are all friends."

    MUSLIM GUARDS

    Located in tawny hills, the Black Church derives its name from the
    volcanic stone used to build it in the early 14th century after an
    older one was destroyed by an earthquake.

    Armenians -- members of an ancient independent branch of Christianity
    -- believe one of Jesus' apostles, St Jude, was martyred and then
    buried where the church now stands. Its distinctive black-and-white
    striped tower is visible from afar.

    Many of those who lived here fled the turbulent border region in
    World War One, when Armenia says 1.5 million ethnic Armenians were
    killed in a 1915 "genocide" by Ottoman armies in what is now Turkey.

    Ankara denies any systematic killings.

    The church is now mostly empty of Christian worshippers -- two Sunni
    Muslims from a nearby Kurdish village guard it -- but thousands of
    Armenians from around the world flock here every summer for festivities
    to commemorate their patron saint, also known as Thaddeus.

    Officially named St Thaddeus, the church's focus in Iran's World
    Heritage bid is, said Farri, a sign of its respect for other
    religions. He said Armenian pilgrims to the site are "completely free
    to do what they want."

    Amnesty International this year said minorities in Iran were subject
    to discriminatory laws and practices. It focused on the treatment of
    Baha'is, seen by Iran's religious leaders as a heretical offshoot of
    Islam. It also said several evangelical Christians, mostly converts
    from Islam, were detained in 2006.

    The U.S. State Department said in a March report that all religious
    minorities suffered varying degrees of discrimination in Iran,
    particularly in employment, education and housing.

    But Sebouh Sarkissian, the Armenian archbishop in Tehran, dismissed
    such allegations as an "innovation from the West."

    "People are coming and always asking: is there discrimination in this
    country?" said the black-robed prelate in his office next to the 20th
    century Armenian cathedral in Iran's capital. "I can tell you that
    I've felt discrimination even in the United States, even in Europe."

    DWINDLING COMMUNITY

    Armenians are recognised in Iranian law. They have two seats assigned
    to them in the 290-seat parliament and can educate their children in
    the Armenian language. They can even make and drink alcohol at home --
    a practice banned for Muslims.

    Nonetheless, the community has continued to shrink since the Islamic
    revolution almost three decades ago.

    Once estimated to have numbered several hundred thousands, it is now
    only about 100,000 strong, said Sarkissian citing a figure from the
    official IRNA news agency.

    "The process of migration regarding the Armenian community started
    even before the revolution," he said. "Immigration and migration,
    it is a phenomenon all over the world ... not anything peculiar to
    Iran and Iranian society.

    "Even Iranians are emigrating from this country, not only Christians,
    not only Armenians."

    He acknowledged Armenians in Iran could face problems: for
    example, Armenian schools must use a religious book prepared by the
    government. But he praised the authorities for seeking World Heritage
    status for the Black Church and for renovating it.

    A light-colored section of the church was added 200 years ago. Saints
    slaying dragons and devils and other elaborate motifs are carved in
    white stone.

    Visiting from a nearby town, Kheyrollah Mahmoudi said his grandmother
    and other Armenians fleeing Turkey hid there nine decades ago. She
    later married a Muslim man in Iran.

    "They were all afraid they would be killed," Mahmoudi said, recalling
    the old stories as he stood gazing at the church in the sunlight. "It
    is like a movie in front of my eyes."

    From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress
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