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  • Russian border closure hits passengers

    RUSSIAN BORDER CLOSURE HITS PASSENGERS

    Institute for War & Peace Reporting
    Sept 29 2004

    Armenians are the main victims of the shutting of the chief
    Georgian-Russian border crossing point

    By Eteri Mamulashvili in the Daryal Gorge

    For almost a month now 45 Armenian bus passengers have been waking
    up every morning under the open skies of the Daryal Gorge in the
    Georgian mountains, hoping that this will be their last day in this
    beautiful spot.

    The busload of passengers from Armenia had the misfortune to try
    to cross this mountainous border into Russia just as the Russian
    authorities closed it on September 3, the day the bloody Beslan tragedy
    unfolded. Since then every day they have pestered the Georgian border
    guards to relay back to them any news from their Russian colleagues.

    "The Georgians told us that because of the Beslan tragedy the Russian
    authorities are closing the border with Georgia for several days,"
    said Viktoria Piroyeva, one of the passengers, in a despairing voice.
    "We have been here since September 3 and every night we go to sleep
    hoping that they will open the border on the next day."

    The bus, which was supposed to take them to the Northern Ossetian
    capital Vladikavkaz, is uncomfortable even for sitting, but has now
    become their sleeping quarters. The passengers manage to buy food
    with the little money they still have with them. Fortunately, the
    border checkpoint has a canteen where the passengers take turns to
    eat. The nearby river Terghi has become their bathroom.

    The Armenian bus is one of the few survivors of what three weeks ago
    was a mass of vehicles trying to get into Russia.

    "There were a lot of people during the first week after the border
    closed, but then the numbers went down," Georgi Kulumbegov deputy head
    of the checkpoint, told IWPR. "Three buses with Armenian citizens,
    most of whom were going to Russia to work, turned back a few days
    ago. All those who could go back left Daryal a long time ago."

    The Georgian foreign ministry says it is in daily touch with its
    Russian counterpart, seeking the opening of the frontier. All the
    border guards can do is refer to a statement issued by the Russian
    foreign ministry which says, "Because of the sharp deterioration of
    the situation in the North Caucasus, the Russian side is temporarily
    suspending international vehicle traffic on the Kazbegi-Verkhny Lars
    section of the state frontier."

    Many of those stuck in the gorge have burned their bridges with home
    and have nothing to go back to. Russian language teacher Susanna
    Peranian sold her house in Yerevan two months ago and was moving to
    live with her son in Moscow. Now her main concern is getting a daily
    meal. "We barely manage to eat once a day, soon we probably won't
    have even that," she said unable to hold back tears. "We are all
    like prisoners, but even they live better than we do - prison cells,
    at least, have beds."

    The Georgian government gave the trapped passengers a one-off gift
    of humanitarian aid in the form of food, warm blankets, medicine and
    first aid kits. But some of them are in failing health.

    Elizaveta Abramovna, who worked as a doctor herself for 40 years,
    was travelling to Russia to have an urgent operation on a tumour. For
    the last week, she has been in acute pain.

    "Would anyone care to explain to us why and for how long we are
    going to be in this situation?" the 68-year-old Armenian asked aloud.
    "Those who are doing this, they are the enemies of any people. Three
    years ago a tragedy worse than in Beslan happened in New York, but
    there the borders were not closed and people could freely move from
    one country to another."

    As well as worsening the health of passengers, the long wait is
    inflicting material damage.

    Zia Bogirzade is an Azerbaijani citizen, who was transporting ten
    tons of tomatoes to Moscow with her business partner and has spent
    over three weeks at the closed border. Every morning Bogirzade throws
    away several dozens of kilos of rotten tomatoes. "More than half the
    cargo has gone bad," she said. "A bit longer like this, and I will
    probably leave my last tomato here.".

    Bogirzade said she had lost 10,000 US dollars already, and the losses
    were growing by 50 dollars each day.

    Russia's land border with Azerbaijan has also been closed since the
    crisis, with devastating results for the traders who usually shuttle
    back and forth between the two countries.

    This reporter managed to approach the Russian-controlled checkpoint
    at Lars for twenty minutes and talk to the Russian border guards,
    but they gave only one answer to all our questions, "We know nothing."

    An even more dramatic scene has formed on the Russian side of the
    border, with the authorities there refusing to let through a huge
    column of lorries and cars and thousands of passengers. About twenty
    hauling trucks loaded with sugar and meat are standing in the neutral
    zone. Georgian border guards say about 300 vehicles of various kinds,
    mostly transit, are waiting on the other side of the frontier.

    Although this is the Georgian-Russian border, check point officials
    believe that Armenia is suffering the most.

    "For them, Daryal is effectively the only road that links them with
    Russia - practically, the 'road of life' because many Armenian citizens
    work in Russia as seasonal labourers and travel by this road year in
    year out," said Kulumbegov.

    And one other thing is now on everyone's minds: the approach of
    winter. The first snow fell in the gorge this year on September 12
    and the longer the standoff continues, the greater the risk that the
    weather will shut down the crossing point altogether.

    "Now is not the time to ask who is right, who is to blame," said
    Kulumbegov. "Our main job is to help these people to get out of here
    as soon as possible."

    Eteri Mamulashvili is a correspondent with the Georgian newspaper
    24 Hours.
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