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Agos: So Close Yet Worlds Apart

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  • Agos: So Close Yet Worlds Apart

    SO CLOSE YET WORLDS APART

    Agos Weekly
    Dec 18 2009
    Istanbul

    Armenia's border with Turkey has been closed since 1993. Mark Grigoryan
    met the Armenian villagers of Margara, who are setting their sights
    on reconciliation

    The village of Margara, in the Armavir Province of Armenia, lies
    on the edge of the world. For the villagers their world ends by the
    River Arax. On the other side is Turkey - a country that is unknown,
    maybe hostile, big and alien.

    Armenia's border with Turkey has been closed since 1993

    There is a bridge that spans the banks of the Arax. From Armenia one
    can see the other side of the bridge. There is a big red Turkish flag,
    a huge poster showing the outline of Turkey, and a large portrait of
    the founder of modern Turkey, Kemal Ataturk.

    To stand next to the flag, one has to drive northwards, to neighbouring
    Georgia, cross the Georgian-Turkish border and then come back from
    the Turkish side - a 500km journey to cover a distance one could
    throw a stone across.

    Villagers are already thinking about how they will sell their
    agricultural products in the markets of Igdir, or along the Turkish
    Black Sea coast. "It's so difficult to take stuff to Georgia and
    sell it there," villagers say. "We'd be better to do business with
    the Turks rather than with Georgians."

    Crossing the divide

    The villagers of Margara have never crossed the border between Armenia
    and Turkey. In fact, they can't even greet their Turkish neighbours
    with a wave, because that would be a violation of a border convention.

    Armenian villagers are bracing themselves for the opening of the border

    During the Soviet period it was the most strictly guarded border of
    the USSR, as Turkey was a member of Nato. Despite opening briefly
    at the beginning of the 1990s (when the USSR collapsed and Armenia
    gained its independence) the border remains firmly shut.

    Now, however, the villagers are bracing themselves for the opening
    of the border.

    Dreams without borders

    "I want to see my grandfather's house," says Nikolay. "I was told he
    was handsome and had a big house. I just want to see it once."
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