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Yet another colonial hangover

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  • Yet another colonial hangover

    Pratik Kanjilal
    March 26, 2010

    First Published: 22:51 IST(26/3/2010)
    Last Updated: 22:57 IST(26/3/2010)

    Yet another colonial hangover

    Life on Kolkata's Park Street will not be the same after the
    devastating fire in Stephen Court. The hub of social life and
    entertainment almost since the city was founded, the street has
    recently been trying to recover from its decline during Marxist
    rule. Now, its regeneration could falter. Kolkata is an old-style city
    with a sense of public decency. The tragedy will be mourned for years
    to come and going out for a bit of fun on the street where so many
    people died needlessly could feel unnatural.

    People are also mourning the destruction of a landmark of the colonial
    skyline. Interestingly, though Stephen Court was a Raj period
    building, it was not built by a colonial. In fact, much of the
    remarkable heritage architecture of the Presidency towns is of Asian
    provenance. The English mainly built government institutions to rule
    from, educational institutions to generate manpower and barracks for
    the military which kept them in power. They built an astonishing
    number of barracks. In fact, one of Kolkata's satellite towns is
    called Barrackpore. Ironically, that's where the 1857 rising started,
    precipitated by the court martial of the turbulent sepoy Mangal
    Pandey.

    Stephen Court was built by the Isfahani Armenian Arathoon Stephen
    (1861-1927), who arrived in Kolkata dirt-poor and became a real estate
    baron. His impoverished refugee origin may be an exaggeration, since
    his family was perhaps already in India when Pandey was turning up the
    heat. But he was certainly a merchant prince committed to
    institution-building. His most remarkable property was a Chowringhee
    boarding house he took over from a Mrs Monk and turned into the iconic
    Grand Hotel. When business declined in 1938 following Kolkata's great
    cholera epidemic, it was bought on the cheap by a certain Mohinder
    Singh Oberoi. The Oberoi Grand was a lucky buy, minting money during
    the war years when thousands of Allied soldiers were billeted there
    and partied with single-minded determination as they waited to be
    shipped out to fight the Japanese. It became the seed of the
    transnational Oberoi chain of hotels.

    The British did not exclusively build the colonial skyline, as we
    imagine.

    Mercantile Asians, notably the Armenians, also invested in building
    modern India. Armenians were trading with the Malabar coast from the
    8th century and the seed of the British Empire, the Mughal firman
    allowing the East India Company to set up shop in Bengal, was brokered
    by an Armenian named Khoja Sarhad. By the time of Stephen, about
    30,000 Armenians were settled in India. And when Armenia was under
    Soviet rule, this nation persecuted throughout history valued India as
    a safe haven for its church.

    In 2003, the Calcutta High Court ruled that the Company functionary
    Job Charnock could not be identified as the founder of Kolkata. The
    evidence against him included mention of the town in Abul Fazl's
    Ain-i-Akbari and the popular medieval text Manasa Mangal. But the
    court neglected the most damning evidence: the oldest Christian
    gravestone in India, in Kolkata's Armenian Church. It is that of an
    Armenian woman named `Rezabibi, wife of the late charitable Sookias,
    who departed from this world to life eternal' in 1630. At the time,
    Charnock was a suckling babe in London. So much for the British
    creating modern India!

    Pratik Kanjilal is publisher of The Little Magazine.
    n [email protected]
    The views expressed by the author are personal.
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