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Exhibition: Palestine before the occupation

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  • Exhibition: Palestine before the occupation

    The Jordan Times
    Sept 24 2011


    Palestine before the occupation

    By Ica Wahbeh

    AMMAN - Taking the viewer back in time, 116 photographs lining the
    walls of Cairo Amman Bank Art Gallery make up a chronicle of a people
    and a place `before Al Nakba'.

    Titled `Palestine Remembers', the exhibition presents but a fraction
    of the over 2,500 snapshots taken by Palestinian Armenian Elia
    Kahvedjian (1910-1999), some with references as old as 1860.

    Urban and rural life, customs and costumes, landscape and
    architecture, ordinary people and historic personalities are
    immortalised in his black and white photos, testimony to the social,
    economic and political situation in Palestine before the occupation.

    A keen eye for beauty and detail must have guided this artist orphaned
    at five who started his photographic career at 14, for his are truly
    captivating pictures. They present an idyllic, bucolic lifestyle, but
    also some breathtaking views of Jerusalem - this quintessential
    metropolis with an unmistakable skyline over which wars were fought,
    shattering the peace for which it is named - Jaffa and Haifa, Jericho,
    Ramallah, Nablus, and even Wadi Rum and Aqaba.

    And so, from farmers ploughing their field with the help of oxen or
    sifting grain - to be taken later to a windmill like the one on `King
    George Avenue' (1928) - to bread makers, to railways workers and
    illustrious personalities - Emir Abdullah, Col. Lawrence, Churchill -
    the viewer has the chance to witness a colourful, multi-faceted
    society, to see people whose existence seems to followed its set
    course in the way their predecessors' had.

    Going deeper into detail, the photographs capture the life of city
    people, peasants, shepherds and bedouins, professions - baker, farmer,
    vendor, teacher, locomotive mechanic, caravan tradesmen, fishermen,
    statesmen - document for posterity a way of living and of making a
    living, peaceful times that will, few decades later, be visited by
    tragedy.

    Whether proudly posing in their finery, like the Ramallah woman in her
    embroidered dress, (1940) or exhibiting their adornments (beads,
    necklaces, pendants, embellished headdress over pleated hair and even
    a nose ring), like `The proud bedouin woman' staring defiantly to the
    lens in 1931, whether captured performing their day-to-day activities
    - wool spinners (both men and women), barber, librarian, policemen,
    harvesters - the people in Kahvedjian's snapshots give a glimpse into
    a once tranquil life untroubled by man's cruelty.

    A shepherd and his grazing sheep are profiled in Jericho against a
    mountain range behind which the sun is setting (1940). In 1930, a
    `caravan on Mt. of Olives' sends the viewer to the days of 1001 nights
    and in 1924, a cloudy sky over Jerusalem serves as background for the
    domes of mosques and spires of churches, a symbolic reminder of
    coexistence and tolerance.

    Olive trees as old as time, trunks thick, gnarled, bent by winds and
    artistically projected against dramatic skies, often take pride of
    place in Kahvedjian's photos. A recurrent subject matter is the Dome
    of the Rock, close up or distant, always imposing and majestic, iconic
    for the landscape of the city of peace.

    Narrow cobblestone streets in Jerusalem are shaded by vaulted
    gangways. The Christian, Armenian and Mughrabi quarters are bustling
    with people, women carrying heavily laden trays on their heads and
    vendors waiting for clients by the doors of their shops.

    The Damascus, Zion (Nabi Dahoud), Jaffa and Herod gates of Jerusalem
    show signs of intense activity, horse-drawn carriages and hawkers
    peddling their wares, while the streets of cotton and of chains point
    to guilds as old as time plying their trades.

    Picking olives, harvesting crops, getting ready to take to the sea to
    fish, having the future told by a fortune teller, dancing to the sound
    of a tambourine (like the gypsy girl with an engaging smile),
    attending class (like the five girls sensibly seated on low settees,
    listening to their male teacher), policing vast expanses on horse or
    camel back, eating hummus or simply playing `sijeh' (a strategy game
    utilising black and white stones), people peacefully go about their
    daily life, with no inkling of the tragedy that is going to befall
    them.

    Their activities show things set in their way, routine and tradition,
    occupations inherited over generations, unmistakably refuting the
    brazen `country without people for a people without country' Zionist
    slogan.

    Indicators of more `modern' activity are also caught on film by the
    prolific photographer.

    A steamroller on Hebron Road attracts quite a crowd in 1914 and
    `Inside Jaffa Gate' (1900), a Deutsche Palestina Bank sign keeps
    company to one reading `Assad C. Kayat' and to a `Magasin oriental`
    belonging to Andre Terzis & fils.

    The hubble bubble, oh so in vogue, was smoked in coffee houses in
    Jerusalem in 1915, Gaza had palm trees towering over houses in 1924
    and the sun rises over a fishing boat in Haifa in 1927.

    Cigarette in hand, an elderly bedouin woman is `waiting at the clinic'
    with, presumably, her daughter and granddaughter (1934) and a `bedouin
    warrior' in Jericho (1914) poses on his horse with a long lance for
    weapon. Seeing people racing horses, cooking shishbarak, grazing
    camels, baking bread or watching the Graf Zeppelin fly over Jerusalem,
    seeing the Arab Legion parade in May 25, 1946, or Emir Abdullah with
    Sir Herbert and Col. Lawrence in 1921 gives the viewer the privilege
    of witnessing both run-of-the-mill and momentous instances in people's
    lives in Palestine.

    The quality of the photographs is stunning, disproving, curator
    Mohammad Jaloos says, the mistaken belief that that the age long past
    lacked in technique and technology. In these images, `however, we see
    how monochrome pictures that are supported by considerable skill in
    manual printing surpass all the technology we have amassed in the
    digital age. The method gives a complete depiction, one created with a
    loving heart that is deeply connected to place and time'.

    The photographs can be viewed until October 19.

    photo: Work by Elia Kahvedjian on display at the `Palestine Remembers'
    exhibition at the Cairo Amman Bank Art Gallery until October 19 (Photo
    courtesy of the Cairo Amman Bank Art Gallery)

    http://www.jordantimes.com/index.php?news=41619

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