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  • Georgians, Armenians row over vanishing monuments

    Institute for War & Peace Reporting
    May 26 2005


    GEORGIANS, ARMENIANS ROW OVER VANISHING MONUMENTS


    Ancient church is target of allegations from religious leaders of
    both countries.

    By Sofo Bukia in Tbilisi


    A long-running dispute about the alleged vandalism of medieval
    Armenian gravestones in the Georgian capital Tbilisi is still raging
    between the churches of both countries.

    In early May, the Georgian diocese of the Armenian Apostolic Church
    released a statement saying in effect that inscriptions from the
    Norashen church - which they claim as an Armenian site - had been
    destroyed and replaced with Georgian ones.

    `Gravestones with Georgian inscriptions suddenly appeared in the yard
    of the Norashen Armenian church [in the old quarter of Tbilisi] this
    spring,' said the statement. `At the same time, the Armenian
    gravestones that have been in the churchyard for centuries were moved
    and the inscriptions on them erased.'

    The scandal around Norashen has brought to the surface a long-running
    dispute between the Georgian Orthodox Church and the Armenian
    Apostolic Church over ownership of a number of religious buildings in
    Georgia.

    `Over the past 15 years, the Georgian clergy has occupied and
    consecrated several Armenian churches in Tbilisi - including Kusanats
    Surb Stepanos, St Bethlehem, the Khikhoy chapel, and several other
    churches,' the Armenian statement went on. `The same is expected to
    happen to Norashen and another Armenian church named Surb Nshan.'

    The alarming reports from the medieval church of Norashen triggered
    angry responses in the Armenian press, with journalists reporting on
    the `enforced Georgianisation' of Armenian churches in Tbilisi and
    elsewhere in Georgia.

    In response, young Armenians organised protest actions near Norashen
    and the Georgian embassy in Armenia. `The Georgians have so many
    historic monuments,' said Mari Mikoyan, a student who heads the Nor
    Serund organisation, the youth union of Georgia's Armenians. `Why
    should they need to take someone else's culture for their own?'

    According to the 2002 census, almost 250,000 Armenians now live in
    Georgia, forming 5.7 per cent of its population. In Tbilisi, which
    has strong Armenian traditions, 7.6 per cent of the population is now
    Armenian. Both communities have very different views on the history
    of the city.

    The Sioni cathedral, a synagogue, a mosque, and a functioning
    Armenian church Surb Gevork are all close to one another in the
    Meidan district of old Tbilisi. Norashen is also situated in this
    area but its status has never been so clear and the church has been
    closed for decades.

    Sixty-eight-year-old Shota Lezhava was born and grew up in Meidan. `I
    have lived all my life in old Tbilisi, as did my father before me. We
    always thought that this was a Georgian church,' he told IWPR.

    `I do not remember its name precisely, or whether it has ever been
    open. What I know is that there was a library in the building in the
    Soviet times. I have heard a legend about a Georgian nobleman who
    lost this church to an Armenian merchant - but that is just a story.'

    At the Georgian Patriarchate, the deputy spokesman, Zurab
    Tskhovrebadze, said he had no knowledge of any changes at Norashen.

    And Father Tariel, a Georgian priest whom the Armenian side has
    accused of vandalism, said that the only thing that he had done was
    to clean the yard of rubbish.

    `We share a yard [with the Jvris Mama Georgian temple situated next
    to Norashen] and I was busy with that. I planted trees there,' Father
    Tariel told IWPR. `I did not touch gravestones. How could I insult
    the souls of the dead? The Armenians are just afraid that I will
    enter this church but I am not going to do that. For now at any
    rate.'

    However, government officials conceded that changes had been made at
    the church.

    Nika Vacheishvili, head of the state department for the protection of
    monuments, said `some changes have indeed taken place on Norashen's
    territory. In particular, Armenian gravestones have been moved from
    one place to another'. Vacheishvili also alleged that Father Tariel
    was responsible for this.

    `We condemn his actions,' Vacheishvili said. `The status of a
    particular church is a confessional issue and it should be resolved
    between the two countries' churches. The Georgian state has a firm
    position that any cultural monument should be protected irrespective
    of its confessional status.'

    Samvel Karapetian, a historian with the Research on Armenian
    Architecture organisation, which monitors Armenian monuments outside
    Armenia, insists that an act of vandalism has taken place.

    `The erasing of traces of Armenian culture at Norashen started in
    1989 and continued actively in 1995 when Armenian inscriptions, two
    khachkars [cross-stones], and two 19th-century frescoes were
    destroyed,' said Karapetian, adding that following the 1995 incident
    two Armenian archbishops, Garegin and Grigor, came to Tbilisi from
    Armenia to meet Georgian Patriarch Ilya II and all work on the church
    was suspended until it was decided to whom it belonged.

    `However, Armenian gravestones disappeared from the church this
    spring and Georgian ones appeared instead of them,' continued
    Karapetian. `These are not just words. I have photographs of the
    stones that are no longer there.'

    Georgian historian Lasha Bakradze told IWPR `perhaps there was a
    Georgian church on this site formerly but this is an Armenian
    building'.

    Georgian prime minister Zurab Nogaideli told journalists in Yerevan
    that he did not want the government to become involved in the
    dispute, and urged the churches to agree a solution amongst
    themselves.

    Tskhovrebadze of the Georgian Patriarchate said that his church
    leadership has proposed setting up a joint commission of Georgian and
    Armenian specialists to consider all issues connected with disputed
    controversial churches and monasteries.

    `The Georgian Orthodox Church has its own grievances against the
    Armenian side. In particular, we mean changes in the Georgian
    churches in Javakheti [the southern Georgian province predominantly
    populated by ethnic Armenians] and we are ready to discuss this
    issue,' said Tskhovrebadze.

    At the end of April, Armenia's parliamentary speaker Artur
    Bagdasarian met Georgian patriarch Ilya II and they also agreed that
    a commission should be formed. However nothing has been do so far.

    The Georgian diocese of the Armenian church has kept quiet on the
    issue and numerous efforts by IWPR to talk to Bishop Vazgen
    Mirzakhanian were unsuccessful. `The bilateral commission has not
    been created, therefore, we will refrain from any additional
    comments,' said Gayane Bostanjian of the press service of the
    diocese.

    Although there is a lull in the row around the disputed church,
    Tbilisi Armenians are worried that the last evidence of Armenian
    history in Norashen may be erased before the promised commission
    begins work.

    Sofo Bukia is a reporter for 24 Saati newspaper in Tbilisi
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