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Desolation under the derricks: those left behind by Azeri oil boom

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  • Desolation under the derricks: those left behind by Azeri oil boom

    Agence France Presse -- English
    June 5, 2005 Sunday 3:17 AM GMT

    Desolation under the derricks: those left behind by the Azeri oil boom

    BAKU


    The acrid air pinches the throat; and the landscape -- bone-dry scrub
    dotted with viscous black pools of oil under scores of towering steel
    derricks that extend as far as the eye can see -- is a portrait of
    desolation.

    For Shahin, Vagif and their families, refugees from a village in
    western Azerbaijan occupied by Armenian forces, this is home. But it
    is a home where the promise of a better life implicit in the oil boom
    sweeping this country is unlikely to be kept.

    Just on the southern edge of the capital Baku, this section of the
    Absheron peninsula is a giant wasteland, where even the dust is
    saturated with oil and the land is covered with the rusting hulks of
    machinery, ageing oil wells, gritty pools and random debris.

    The only things that seem to be growing in this nightmarish landscape
    are the oil derricks, but it is nevertheless populated by hundreds of
    families.

    Aside from them, only the occasional oil company employee drives
    though this rough terrain sandwiched between a highway and the
    coastline.

    Most of the residents here are some of the 750,000 internally
    displaced refugees from areas that are today controlled by Armenian
    forces.

    An estimated one million people from both sides were forced from
    their homes by a war in the early 1990s between Armenia and
    Azerbaijan.

    Vagif Guliyev, 43, is one of the few people here who holds a job in
    this small isolated block of houses which shelters about 100 people;
    he delivers food to the staff of a local oil company.

    Born in Zengilan, in the south of Azerbaijan, Guliyev said he misses
    the "fresh air" of his homeland which he was forced to flee 13 years
    ago. He said he regrets spending "the best years of his life," in a
    place where he left his health and youth.

    The consequences of pollution in this disaster zone are visible to
    the naked eye: adults blame it for their high blood pressure and
    rotting teeth, while for the children the situation is worse,
    according to Vagif who displayed a one-and-a-half-year-old whose
    growth, he claimed, had been stunted by the environment.

    The bleak surroundings make the children inordinately "nervous," he
    said.

    As for the odor, it is so strong in the burning summer months that it
    becomes "difficult to breathe," said another inhabitant, Shahin
    Huseynov.

    Open and smiling, residents are proud to display their homes -- an
    amalgamation of unfinished buildings covered with scrap metal -- as
    well as their surrounding environment -- a bare and oil-covered
    terrain where their chickens and ducks live, their feet covered in
    oil.

    Though they are provided with water, gas, and electricity by the
    government, and telephone and television function, they face a host
    of other problems such as a lack of transportation.

    The nearest school is located three kilometers (two miles) from the
    community and passing buses owned by oil companies have instructions
    not to stop here, said Hafiza Hatanova, a woman of about 60.

    "That hurts us, it's a form of discrimination," she said. Relations
    with the outside world are no less strained. Government assistance is
    limited to 25,000 manats (five dollars, four euros) per person per
    month.

    Representatives of the state never come to check up on their
    situation and health care is not available to the refugees.

    Meanwhile the capital Baku last week celebrated the opening ceremony
    of the ultra-modern four-billion-dollar Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan pipeline
    which is expected to boost oil exports but the refugees remain
    bitter.

    "The government will get more money but where will it go?" asked
    Rahman Shahmammadov, a local 40-year-old.

    Nobody in this ramshackle habitat believes the pipeline, which Azeri
    President Ilham Aliyev has said will usher in a new era of prosperity
    for the people, will change their life.
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