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Sunshine Vistas and the 21st Century City Reimagined

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  • Sunshine Vistas and the 21st Century City Reimagined

    Sunshine Vistas and the 21st Century City Reimagined

    KCET.org
    LA
    Letters
    January 18, 2013

    by Mike Sonksen

    California, and Los Angeles specifically, has always been considered a
    laboratory of the future. Californians have been reinventing
    themselves and the local landscape for generations. This week
    L.A. Letters highlights a few sacred sites and two new books that
    exemplify re-visioning Los Angeles and the 21st Century City.

    On the eastern side of the Cal State L.A. campus is a hillside set of
    stairs climbing upward for several hundred feet. Students call these
    stairs "Cardiac Hill" with good reason. Nonetheless, climbing Cardiac
    Hill is well worth it because on a clear day from the top one can see
    not only Mt. Wilson and Mt. Baldy to the northeast, but also the
    massive Mt. San Gorgonio further east, and even further -- Mt. San
    Jacinto near Palm Springs. The ability to see these towering peaks all
    together in one view is rare and sublime. I have to stop every time I
    see it and pause for a second.


    The majestic vista reminds me of the joy Carey McWilliams describes in
    his book "Southern California: An Island on the Land." He writes: "I
    think of the view from a favorite arroyo in the late afternoon, the
    east slope still bathed in sunlight, the far slope already full of
    dark shade and lengthening shadows. A cool breeze, as one can look
    across the plains, out over miles of homes and trees, and hear the
    faraway hum of traffic on the high-ways and see the golden light
    filtering through the mist-laden air."

    McWilliams' favorite arroyo must have been one on par with Cardiac
    Hill. There are only a few vistas in Southern California where you can
    see such a panoramic shot of the three tallest mountains south of the
    Sierra Nevada. Seeing these giants together reminds me that Mother
    Nature still rules Southern California. Furthermore even though we are
    an epicenter for pollution and smog, the mountain's brilliance still
    prevails.

    Also visible from Cardiac Hill is leafy Pasadena to the north and Phil
    Spector's Alhambra mansion immediately east. Further off in the
    distance, the endless sprawl of the San Gabriel Valley blends into the
    Inland Empire. Citrus groves are now tract homes and freeways bisect
    big-box shops and subdivisions. The hills of City Terrace and Monterey
    Park make Montebello only partially visible from Cardiac Hill. About
    four miles southeast of Cal State L.A. is the Armenian Genocide
    Memorial in Montebello, at a site called Bicknell Park.
    The 85-foot tall concrete sculpture of eight clustered arches is
    elegant and can be seen from the freeway if one looks close. I saw it
    myself years back before I knew what it was.

    Just south of the 60 Freeway and the Garfield Boulevard exit, the
    Armenian Genocide Memorial dates back to 1968. Though neighborhoods
    like Glendale, East Hollywood and Little Armenia are more famous for
    their connections to the Armenian community, Montebello is the site of
    the Holy Cross Armenian Apostolic Cathedral and the oldest enclave of
    Armenians in Southern California.

    In 2011, an official sign declaring the memorial was placed on the 60
    freeway. The existence of this memorial is especially significant to
    the Armenian community because the Turkish government and others
    continue to deny it ever happened. The memorial is a source of
    strength for the community and a reminder of the not too distant
    past. The genocide kick-started the modern Armenian diaspora, bringing
    hundreds of thousands of Armenians to America after the First World
    War.

    A plaque on the memorial says: "Armenian Martyrs Memorial Monument:
    This Monument erected by Americans of Armenian descent, is dedicated
    to the 1,500,000 Armenian victims of the Genocide perpetrated by the
    Turkish Government, 1915-1921, and to men of all nations who have
    fallen victim to crimes against humanity." Every year on April 24th,
    thousands of Armenians from all over the Southland converge for
    Genocide Remembrance Day. Thousands of Armenian-Americans have made
    the pilgrimage there over the last 45 years, and a few other Armenian
    Genocide memorials have been built around North America after
    Montebello's.

    Another sacred site in the San Gabriel Valley east of Montebello and
    visible in the hills of Hacienda Heights is the monumental Hsi Lai
    Buddhist Temple. Famed for its classic Chinese architecture and vast
    gardens, it's the largest Buddhist temple on the West Coast. Perched
    in the chaparral north of the vast Rose Hills Cemetery and the
    Whittier hills, I've been able to spot the temple from several miles
    west in Montebello and Monterey Park as well as driving on the
    60. Whenever I see it off in the distance I take a deep breath and
    appreciate it.

    *****

    "Post-Ghetto: Reimagining South Los Angeles" is a new book on UC Press
    charting the evolving landscape of L.A.'s south side. The dozen essays
    highlight recent hopeful signs like new community gardens, successful
    gang-prevention programs, food justice, and lower crime in the area
    since the 1992 Uprisings. Daniel Widener's piece, "Setting the Seen:
    Hollywood, South Los Angeles and the Politics of Film" juxtaposes two
    Black films from the early 1970s, "Repression" and "Wattstax," to
    trace the history of Black Cinema in Los Angeles and to reveal
    different ways South L.A. has been portrayed in film. Widener writes,
    "Whether utopian or dystopian, these films show South Los Angeles as a
    place of active black subjectivity, of regular folks acting, instead
    of being acted upon. This is self-determination."
    Widener celebrates the self-determination of these films because they
    presented alternative views of Black culture from what Hollywood
    stereotypically did. This theme of reimagining South Los Angeles
    defines the book.

    Editor Josh Sides has curated an optimistic yet sober account of South
    L.A.'s transformation. He writes, "It is unlikely that a color-blind
    society can ever be created, so thoroughly are racial and racist
    beliefs woven into the fabric of the United States. But the creation,
    maintenance, and perpetuation of the ghetto is not inevitable. The
    authors of this volume are deeply invested in thinking about,
    proposing, analyzing, and implementing remedies in Los Angeles in
    hopes of someday residing in a post-ghetto nation."

    "Rage is Back," published by Viking, is a new novel about the New York
    City graffiti underground loaded with insight on contemporary culture
    that applies equally to Los Angeles. Author Adam Mansbach,
    best-selling author of "Go the F to Sleep," has composed a tour de
    force that manages to be both an ode to New York, hip hop and
    graffiti, as well as a narrative about the ties between friends,
    family and the magic of art. Kilroy Dondi Vance, the savvy biracial
    protagonist, is the son of one New York's most famous graff writers
    ever and the narrator of the action-packed tale.

    Dondi doesn't disappoint waxing on topics like graffiti history, race
    relations, gentrification, and other similar cultural touchstones
    especially relevant in these times. The mix of sarcastic humor and
    insight charges the work, like in this passage: "Don't ever mention
    Haring to a graffiti writer, by the way, or Basquiat either. Not
    unless you're ready for a tutorial about how those guys were chumps,
    never hit trains, didn't hang out at the Writers' bench on 149th and
    Grand Concourse, only painted where it was safe, fronted like they
    were real heads and made millions while the real heads are real broke
    heads, some of them with real broke heads."

    The plot centers on the return of Dondi's father Rage and an ensuing
    citywide art campaign organized by leading graffiti artists to defeat
    the crooked MTA police chief. Flashback scenes from the 1980s explain
    the two decade backstory. A dash of the supernatural pervades the work
    in the mythical tunnels below New York. Dondi's commentary on
    gentrification in Fort Greene and Williamsburg could easily apply to
    Silver Lake and Echo Park.

    There's even one chapter where the narrator changes and the transition
    is seamless -- the character name Cloud Nine takes over for a few
    pages to tell a story. The book culminates when Dondi, his father
    Rage, and their entourage paint all the trains in New York City. The
    dénouement is the redemption of Dondi's father and exposing to the
    public the corrupt police chief. Sandwiched in the midst of all the
    action and humor is a heartfelt and tender story of father and son and
    the redemptive power of art to bring people together. "Rage is Back"
    is a masterful work that puts Mansbach in the same league as scribes
    like Zadie Smith, Junot Diaz and Michael Chabon as one of the most
    cutting edge contemporary novelists.

    "Post-Ghetto" and "Rage is Back" both involve re-imagining the 21st
    Century city in pursuit of creating a better future. Urban alchemists
    are at work. The same spirit radiates at the Hsi Lai Buddhist Temple
    and Armenian Genocide Memorial, visionaries are re-imagining the city
    with sacred sites to create the reality they want to see. These
    authors and sites shine bright in the kaleidoscope of L.A. Letters.


    PHOTO CAPTION: Armenian Genocie Memorial in Montebello | Photo by Arev
    G used under a Creative Commons license.

    PHOTO CAPTION: Isaac Hayes performing at Wattstax, with Rev. Jesse
    Jackson, at the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum | Credit: Courtesy of
    Wattstax.


    From: Baghdasarian
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