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  • Notes from Damascus

    The Spectator, UK
    April 26 2014

    Notes from Damascus

    Plus: The memory of Jeffrey Bernard, and the 100th anniversary of the
    Armenian genocide

    by Peter Oborne 26 April 2014


    As I looked out of the window of my hotel bedroom, studying the view
    of central Damascus, the mobile phone rang. Peter Walwyn was on the
    line. I have not seen Mr Walwyn, who was twice British champion
    racehorse trainer and trained Grundy to win the Derby in 1975, for
    several years. I reminded him of our lunch at Simpson's-in-the-Strand.
    He had sat down, ordered a vodka and tonic, and told me that the
    evening before he had placed flowers on Jeffrey Bernard's grave. After
    Bernard died several Lambourn trainers, along with Peter O'Toole, held
    a ceremony at the top of the gallops. A simple granite stone memorial
    now marks the spot. I think that the Low Life correspondent of this
    magazine would have felt great happiness and pride that the daffodils
    swaying in the breeze beside the huge beech tree at the top of
    Faringdon Road gallops in Lambourn this spring were planted in his
    memory by one of the finest and most popular racing trainers of the
    20th century. At the very least he would have fallen off his bar
    stool.

    Peter Walwyn's wife of 60 years, Bonk, died in January, and a
    quotation from Bernard was on her funeral service sheet. It read: 'The
    following morning we went to Lambourn to see Peter and Bonk Walwyn.
    Bonk pulled my shoes off and left a large vodka, ice and soda on the
    bedside table. You can't ask for more even from your own wife.'

    I was still feeling exhilarated by my conversation with Peter when I
    travelled across town to Bab Touma (St Thomas's Gate) in Old Damascus
    to interview Armash Nalbandian, the Armenian bishop. He said that 11
    of the 32 Armenian churches in Syria have been bombed or attacked
    during the conflict. He was incensed by recent events at Kasab, an
    Armenian village close to the Turkish border in northern Syria. He
    told me how villagers had been attacked in the early hours of the
    morning by militant groups. 'These groups were supported by the
    Turkish army. Our people there, they witnessed that.' Almost the
    entire population of Kasab has fled, while the al-Qa'eda aligned group
    al-Nusra is said to be patrolling the streets.


    Next year marks the 100th anniversary of the Armenian genocide, a
    tragedy which Turkey to this day refuses to acknowledge. The bishop
    was careful to stress that no one was killed during the attack on
    Kasab. 'Please don't compare this to the Armenian genocide.
    Nevertheless the only thing that I can say is that the Turks are the
    ones who committed that genocide and are now behaving the way they are
    in Syria.' Nora Arissian, a Damascus-based historian of Armenia, told
    me: 'It was not genocide, but it was a forced evacuation and ethnic
    cleansing because many inhabitants have had their homes looted and
    stolen.'

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    It is a short 200-yard journey up Straight Street (along which St Paul
    walked in the Bible) from the Armenian church to Al-Zaytoun Greek
    Catholic church. There I attended a crowded service of incomparable
    peace and beauty. Six mortars fell nearby as we prayed, and the church
    precincts had been struck twice by mortars in the last week. Later I
    had dinner with a dentist who told me of his despair that the West
    showed no concern at the plight of the Christian community in Syria.
    He offered his own explanation: 'To the jihadists we are kafirs. But
    to the West we are just Arabs.'

    David Cameron last week declared that Christians 'are now the most
    persecuted religion around the world' and committed his government to
    fighting this persecution: 'We should stand up against persecution of
    Christians wherever and whenever we can.' There is no doubting the
    Prime Minister's sincerity. However he needs in all truth to
    acknowledge that his own policies, like those of Tony Blair before
    him, have contributed to the isolation and terrorisation of some of
    the most ancient Christian communities in the world. There are thought
    to have been 1.5 million Christians in Iraq before the 2003 invasion.
    Ten years later over one million have fled. More than 300,000 Iraqi
    Christians went to Syria, which is no longer (partly thanks to British
    policy) a safe haven. For all Bashir Assad's faults, during his regime
    he was careful to tolerate many of the minorities (so long as they
    acquiesced in his regime) -- communities that had lived in Syria
    securely for thousands of years and make up some of the most ancient
    civilisations in the world.

    In spite of the real dangers to minorities in Iraq and now Syria,
    Britain and the United States have so far accepted only a handful as
    refugees. If David Cameron's pledge to Christians around the world is
    to have any meaning, perhaps he should not offer them the safe haven
    that is being destroyed in Syria.

    This article first appeared in the print edition of The Spectator
    magazine, dated 26 April 2014


    http://www.spectator.co.uk/features/notebook/9190561/damascus-notebook/




    From: A. Papazian
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