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Armenian Politics In Yerevan Taxicabs

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  • Armenian Politics In Yerevan Taxicabs

    ARMENIAN POLITICS IN YEREVAN TAXICABS

    Mirror Spectator
    Editorial 12-6 Dec

    By Edmond Y. Azadian

    If you think the Armenian parliament is the most contentious forum for
    political debates, try the Yerevan taxicabs and their most informed
    and astute drivers. Many of my columns, over time, have been sparked
    by my discussions with cab drivers who have sharp opinions on world
    affairs, but especially on Armenia's domestic affairs.

    Armenia's news outlets are mostly introverted and myopic generally.

    They dwell on trivia, amplifying them and feeding the readers and
    viewers what they present as valuable news rather than the fluff it is.

    Of course, there are also the well-organized and generously funded
    outlets which are extensions of foreign agencies and they serve their
    own masters. They characterize Armenia within the perspectives of
    what the owners of those agencies would like to see.

    The local outlets have their on heroes and villains, which have
    nothing in common with objective news reporting.

    The alternative is the news and commentary provided by cabbies. They
    are more genuine and spontaneous, if not always reliable. They provide
    the raw news and sincere comments. They reflect the unfiltered and
    uncensored opinion of real people. One can sense the true pulse of the
    nation through them. I have always been fascinated by how these cabbies
    generate and process news in their minds and they announce their views
    with such resolute authority that one feels like one has to surrender.

    As soon as you jump in a gas-fueled Yerevan cab, no matter how short
    the ride may last, you are engaged in a political discussion or
    discourse -- as the case may be -- even if you are not in the mood
    for having a conversation. You don't need to solicit your driver's
    opinion; it will come out voluntarily and loquaciously.

    During the early years of independence, the mood was always festive.

    The discussions were held in a positive path and the visitor was even
    reassured that the freezing cold and the darkness would soon come to
    an end and that the country would resume its normal course.

    Of course, there were always some sharp remarks or solemn advice to
    this and that leader but the overall mood remained upbeat.

    As the years have passed, the cab drivers have entered a more defiant
    mood. Those were the war years in Karabagh and Armenians had scored
    a victory over the much-stronger forces of Azerbaijan. The pictures
    of bearded war heroes decorated almost every taxicab in Yerevan.

    My trip this November found most of the cab drivers silent. It was as
    if they were biting their tongues not to utter a word -- positive or
    negative. They would answer only if you teased them into a conversation
    What struck me was that the pictures of war heroes were either replaced
    by pictures of the Virgin Mary and Jesus or removed altogether.

    The change was an indication that people have resigned themselves
    to the deteriorating situation, or they have placed their fate in
    the hands of the Lord -- their destiny as well as the destiny of
    the country.

    One elderly cab driver posed a question testing my knowledge of the
    city, but he answered his own question without waiting for my reply.

    "Do you see this building? This is the Palace of Justice. But there
    is no justice in this country. The moment the government passes a law,
    they [the authorities] are the first ones violating that law."

    But the Russians are most of the times the butt of the jokes or
    sarcasm, because of the people's frustration. "They treat us in a
    cavalier manner. They control Armenia's economy and they keep raising
    the price of heating gas," one driver said. Many families have their
    homes or apartments connected to the gas distribution system, but
    they cannot afford to pay the utilities. They either burn wood or
    their old books or freeze in the winter cold.

    Many of the cab drivers have fear in their eyes: These Onions
    [Armenians' epitaph for the Russians] are arming the Azeris. We don't
    know where that process will lead us. War is inevitable."

    Most Armenians, however, are confident that should war erupt,
    Azerbaijan will lose more territories. During my visit to Yerevan,
    the most topical news was the shooting down of the unarmed
    military helicopter by the Azeris over the no-man's land on the
    Karabagh-Azerbaijan border. As the debate raged, the cabbies ridiculed
    the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE)
    chairmen, who were nitpicking by stating that there is no definition
    of the no-man's land between Karabagh and the Azeri forces. The
    Azerbaijani army continued firing near the downed helicopter in order
    to block Armenia from approaching the crash site. Finally a commando
    raid was able to recover the helicopter debris and the remains of the
    Armenian pilots. The cabbies in Yerevan were jubilant: "You see how
    our boys recovered the helicopter" one said, while another added, "Make
    no mistake. Retaliation will come soon and it will be devastating. Let
    Azeri families learn what it means to lose a son in the army."

    Armenians, no matter how proud they are when it comes to the army
    fighting the enemy, complain about corruption in it ranks. "My son is
    drafted into the army. We are proud that he will defend our homeland.

    But his superiors are corrupt. Whatever food I supply to my son, it
    will go to his superiors. Otherwise, they will mistreat him. Don't
    you hear now and then that a draftee has committee 'suicide?' Why
    would a young man commit suicide? It is all lies."

    One of the cabbies told me a joke about Russia's President Valdimir
    Putin. When in Yerevan, he happened to pass by a mansion on a mountain
    top, a palace rumored to have a river running through it and an ornate
    chapel for the family next to it.

    "Who does the mansion belong to?" Putin is said to have asked his
    hosts.

    "It belongs to Dodi Gago," was the response.

    "What does 'Dodi' Gago mean?"

    "It means 'crazy' Gago."

    "Well, if crazy people live in such a mansion, I could imagine how
    well off the wiser people should be in this country."

    He came to see that one of those "wiser" people is your cab driver,
    a former university professor, or the homeless guy who spends the
    night sleeping on the street.

    Dodi Gago is the nickname of Gagik Zaroukian, an oligarch who aspires
    to become Armenia's next president. There are legends about his
    extravagant lifestyle among the people. One of the legends is that Mr.

    Zaroukian entertains his guests at his private zoo by feeding live
    donkeys to his pet lions.

    This is the irony in Armenia; the zoo animals are better fed than
    most of the citizens.

    One of the cabbies came out with some good news. I thought after all,
    everything is not dark and pessimistic. He said, "Most of Yerevanites
    are enjoying better living conditions now." The news turned out to be
    bittersweet news or a double-edged sword, as he completed his comments:
    "Our Russian friends are offering jobs, accommodation and citizenship
    to Armenian families. Many are happy to be able to feed their families
    and the emigrate to Russia. That relieves the pressure here with
    unemployment ranks, and the remaining people have more resources in
    finding jobs."

    Yerevan cabbies are the most law-abiding citizens in the country. They
    observe all the traffic regulations religiously because the police
    look the other way when they notice a luxury car violating every
    possible law. The police can easily recognize to whom those luxury
    cars must belong. They can even identify the owners by their special
    vanity license plates.

    On the other hand, God forbid a cab driver makes the slightest mistake,
    as he will receive a ticket that will cost his entire 20-hour-day's
    pay.

    Driving in Yerevan is hazardous. Your life is in danger every minute.

    The cab drivers stoically endure the hardship to put food on their
    family table. Sometimes they direct a sharp remark to a reckless
    driver or extend advice for good behavior.

    But they continue life under harsh conditions, providing their fares
    with the latest news or commentaries. Next time you need the latest
    news or commentaries on Armenia's domestic politics or foreign affairs,
    hop into a cab. You will be well informed.




    From: A. Papazian
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