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  • Fieldwork Under Fire

    FIELDWORK UNDER FIRE
    By Orin Starn

    The Chronicle of Higher Education
    October 14, 2005, Friday

    Where, exactly, is Armenia?

    I have to admit that I couldn't have pointed it out on a map for you
    until a few months ago.

    That changed in a hurry last summer. Almost overnight, it seemed,
    I found myself on an Austrian Airlines flight into Armenia's capital,
    Yerevan. A student of mine, Yektan Turkyilmaz, was about to be put on
    trial there. The secret police had arrested Yektan two months before
    just as he was leaving Armenia, having finished his anthropology
    dissertation research on the early 20th-century history of the
    region. A kind, passionate, and brilliant young scholar, Yektan had
    been held in a miserable basement dungeon. He shared a cell - and the
    jars of Nutella a friend brought now and then - with two Armenian
    prisoners locked up for petty crimes. Many nights Yektan and his
    cellmates could hear the screams of other men being tortured upstairs.

    Yektan's crime? Trying to smuggle old books out of Armenia, according
    to the government. The real reason was a poisonous brew of politics,
    corruption, and paranoia. Yektan is Turkish, albeit of Kurdish
    descent. Even today, many Armenians hate Turks for 1915, when more
    than a million Armenians were rounded up for slaughter in the 20th
    century's first genocide. That a Turk, Duke University student or not,
    would come to Yerevan to study the period's fraught history had made
    him an object of speculation and suspicion from the very start.

    The great irony is that Yektan is one of a few brave Turkish scholars
    now calling for Turkey to face up to its responsibility for the
    Armenian genocide. Speaking about 1915 has been mostly taboo in Turkey,
    with absurd denial and countercharges of Armenian duplicity instead
    the order of the day. That Yektan was committed to real understanding
    of Eastern Anatolia's tragic history had won him research permission
    from the director of the Armenian National Archive. He was the first
    Turkish scholar ever allowed to work there.

    None of this mattered to the secret police. Although renamed the
    National Security Service, everyone in Yerevan just calls them the
    KGB, an unhappy legacy of Armenia's long cold-war decades as part
    of the Soviet Union. Closely tied to President Robert Kocharian,
    a former Communist Party official, the secret police are a shadow
    state. They harass and brass-knuckle opponents, control plum jobs,
    and extort money in bribes and kickbacks in the topsy-turvy gangster
    capitalism of these new post-Soviet times.

    Over his several months in Yerevan, Yektan had bought about 100 used
    books from secondhand booksellers, all related to his research about
    Armenian culture, politics, and history. The secret police had probably
    been following Yektan, and, just after boarding his flight home, he was
    dragged off the plane and taken to KGB headquarters. An obscure law
    restricting the export from Armenia of any book older than 50 years
    provided the pretext for keeping Yektan prisoner. His interrogators
    were convinced that they had captured a major book smuggler, or,
    more likely, a Turkish spy.

    Then came rafts of letters demanding Yektan's release from the likes
    of Richard H. Brodhead, president of Duke; Craig Calhoun, president of
    the Social Science Research Council; Rep. David E. Price, Democrat of
    North Carolina; and Bob Dole, the former Kansas senator and a longtime
    friend of Armenia. At that point, Yektan recalls, the secret police
    began to interrogate him about a third possibilitynamely, that he
    was an American spy. How else to explain such concern from halfway
    around the world? "Mean and stupid," one Armenian I met in Yerevan
    snickered privately about the KGB.

    The tale of Yektan's arrest might appear like some bizarre outlier,
    a freak episode of the Keystone Kops and Gulag Archipelago rolled
    into one. I think, however, that the story points to larger changes in
    the field of anthropology. In the hoary old days of the pith helmet,
    native porters, and steamer-trunk expeditions to Samoa and Congo,
    anthropologists noted the minutiae of kinship structures and tribal
    ritual down to the last cowrie shell. Those old-time anthropologists
    tended to shy away from writing about the less comfortable realities
    of poverty, war, disease, racism, and colonial oppression in the
    third-world societies that they studied.

    It's little wonder that anthropologists back then seldom got into
    trouble. No one besides a small universe of other scholars back in
    Oxford and New Haven cared about the exact explanation for why some
    New Guinea hill tribes liked to chew betel nut at male-initiation
    ceremonies and others did not.

    Everything has changed over the last few decades. The turbulence of
    the Vietnam War years brought loud calls for, as the title of one
    influential anthology had it, "reinventing anthropology" in a more
    activist, politically engaged image. Then, too, the changing trade
    winds of feminist, Marxist, and later postmodern and postcolonial
    theory began to propel questions about social protest and nationalism,
    violence and memory, and power and politics to the center of the field.

    You can see the results now. At Duke alone we have students doing
    dissertations about Mexico's Zapatista rebels and anti-globalization
    activism; everyday life and women's rights in Castro's Cuba; and
    Palestinian refugees in Syria and Lebanon, among many other charged
    topics. It's a long way from the age of anthropologists with lordly
    names like E.E. Evans-Pritchard and A.R. Radcliffe-Brown, and heated
    hallway debate about the particulars of Crow kinship reckoning.

    A degree of risk accompanies the new, more politically minded
    anthropology. A recent Ph.D. from our Duke program, Daniel Hoffman,
    had to be evacuated by helicopter from Sierra Leone a few years ago.

    Hoffman was near death with cerebral malaria he had contracted in the
    backcountry while investigating the kamajor militia movement and their
    tough, violent world. Myrna Mack, a Guatemalan anthropologist, was
    stabbed to death by an army death squad in retaliation for her research
    into the slaughter of Mayan Indians in military counterinsurgency
    campaigns. Last summer Kregg Hetherington, a graduate student at
    the University of California at Davis studying Paraguayan agrarian
    activism, was with peasant protestors when they were attacked by
    landlord goons, who shot and killed two village friends standing
    close by him. Fieldwork under fire is by no means uncommon these days.

    It's always wise to be wary about coming down too hard on
    one's disciplinary ancestors. Whatever their failings, those
    early-20th-century anthropologists believed in human equality and
    the value of other cultures in an age when the hateful ideology about
    white superiority to the "savages" and "primitives" of "lesser races"
    was so prevalent. We shouldn't be too complacent about our own era's
    failures either, since the field is hardly a model of democracy and
    political righteousness. Our many shortcomings include a tiresome
    addiction to ugly, pretentious, jargon-laden prose that makes far
    too much of what we write unintelligible to anyone who doesn't have
    one of those secret postmodern jargon decoder rings.

    I do think it's good that we've moved to a more direct engagement
    with the world's social problems. Surely these times demand more than
    ever the effort to understand the power of xenophobia and nationalist
    hatred, the tensions of wealth and want in the global economy, the
    limits and possibilities of social movements, and a long list of
    other pressing issues. If not in grace of prose, anthropologists
    have the advantage over journalists in the deeper, more intimate
    view gained by months and often years of fieldwork. We can play at
    least a modest role in expanding awareness, critical understanding,
    and a stronger sense of mutual accountability and responsibility in
    this irreversibly interconnected world.

    But what, then, of Yektan? I watched him being led into the courtroom
    in handcuffs surrounded by five policemen as if he were some dangerous
    murderer. All the booksellers from whom Yektan had bought books
    testified that they had never told him about any law limiting their
    export, or in some cases not even known about it themselves.

    The smug, overfed, theatrical prosecutor appeared to have watched
    too many old Perry Mason reruns. He punctuated his incoherent closing
    statement with plenty of pregnant pauses, accusatory stares, and the
    dark suggestion that Yektan was not really a student at all. Then he
    drove off without even bothering to stick around for the verdict.

    Everyone knew, after all, that higher powers had almost certainly
    decided the outcome beforehand in the archetypal Stalinist show-trial
    tradition. Two years in jail, the judge announced, but with a
    suspended sentence, meaning no more prison time. The verdict allowed
    the government to pretend that Yektan's arrest had been justified
    while ceding to the heavy international pressure for his freedom.

    With a few Armenian friends who'd stood with him through his ordeal,
    Yektan walked out of the courthouse into the sweltering August
    afternoon. He blinked and squinted, unaccustomed to the sun after
    two months in a prison cell.

    Now Yektan is back at Duke. He lost 20 pounds in prison, and his eyes
    still dart nervously as if someone may be following him, but he says he
    went to Armenia knowing it could be risky for him there. What Yektan
    learned in his research will help him fill in the story of political
    ambition, disputed borders, and nationalism gone awry that led to
    the genocide of 1915. Does he have advice for other anthropologists
    working in dangerous places? "Just be careful." His own concerns are
    turning to more prosaic matters familiar to any graduate student.

    "I want," he says, "to finish my dissertation and get on with my life."

    Orin Starn is a professor of cultural anthropology at Duke
    University. He is the author of Ishi's Brain: In Search of America's
    Last "Wild" Indian, published last year by W.W. Norton.
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