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Pope Visit Leaves Christian Turkish Village Cold

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  • Pope Visit Leaves Christian Turkish Village Cold

    POPE VISIT LEAVES CHRISTIAN TURKISH VILLAGE COLD
    by Burak Akinci

    Agence France Presse -- English
    November 26, 2006 Sunday 2:31 AM GMT

    Pope Benedict XVI's planned visit to Muslim Turkey this week has
    the world abuzz, but in Tokacli, the country's only entirely Greek
    Orthodox Christian village, most people couldn't care less.

    "So he's coming, is he? What do you know..." commented an incredulous
    native who said he works for the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate in
    Istanbul, some 1,100 km (700 miles) away, but refused to give his name.

    "After what he said about the Muslims, it would have been better for
    him to stay away. I'm surprised he decided to come," said the owner
    of the only cafe in Tokacli, 25 kilometers (15 miles) from Antakya.

    The thirtyish shopowner smoked up his establishment as he tried
    to light the stove, explaining that he too would rather not give
    his name, "because I don't want people to think I'm against peace"
    among Christians.

    Turkey's Christian community is no more than 200,000-strong in a
    country of 70 million, most of them Greek Orthodox or Gregorian
    Armenian.

    Tokacli has a population of 350 in winter and more than 2,000 in the
    summer, when native sons seeking their fortunes abroad -- mostly in
    Western Europe -- return for the holidays.

    They have restored the old homes where they come to live for one month
    a year, although some of the modern rebuilding appears to have cost
    the village part of its original charm.

    Tokacli is attached to the Orthodox Patriarchate of Antioch, as
    Antakya used to be called, and where St. Peter founded the first
    Christian church and where the word "Christian" first originated to
    describe the followers of Jesus.

    The Patriarch of Antioch himself, however, has been a resident of
    Damascus since the 14th century and the people of Tokacli, like many
    people in Hatay province, three-quarters surrounded by Syria, speak
    Arabic among themselves.

    Gathered at the cafe on a recent evening, most of them after a day
    working their olive groves -- the economic mainstay of the community
    -- the men of the village made favorable comparisons of the late pope
    John Paul II, who visited Turkey in 1979, to Benedict XVI.

    Respected community leader Josef Naseh, 53, an archaeologist who runs
    a profitable real estate business in Antakya and heads an NGO to defend
    community rights, brandished a photo to prove he was the first head of
    an Orthodox civic organisation to have an audience with John Paul II,
    back in 2003.

    "The pope (Benedict XVI) is coming basically to attend mass with the
    Greek Orthodox in Istanbul -- it is the only reason for his visit," he
    said. "If it had been John Paul II, things would have been different."

    "He was different," Naseh sighed.

    The mukhtar -- the village headman -- was more enthusiastic about
    the papal visit.

    "It was a good decision to come to our country -- his visit will
    contribute to bringing religions together," said Mikail Kar, a brawny
    man in his fifties, a cigarette dangling from his lips.

    Kar said he returned to his native village only last year to be elected
    headman after 28 years in Norway; his "modern mukhtar" aspect shows
    as he drives rather than walks the narrow alleys of his village to
    meet his constituents.

    "The pope is welcome," he said. "But we would have liked to see him
    here on our lands as well, where Muslims, Christians and Jews have
    always lived in peace, without any problems."

    No one remembers the last time there was a religion-related incident
    in the village, even as Christian clergymen elsewhere in Turkey
    became recent targets of Muslim extremists, like Italian Catholic
    priest Andrea Santoro, shot dead by a teenager in February outside
    his church in Trabzon, on the Black Sea coast.

    After the Santoro killing, followed by at least two more attacks
    against Christian clergymen, the Turkish authorities put two bodyguards
    on duty to guard Tokacli's Priest Musa.

    But it only lasted a month, because, Kar said confidently, "in any
    case, no one ever expected anything to happen here."
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