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St. Petersburg: Hares & Chizhiks

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  • St. Petersburg: Hares & Chizhiks

    ST PETERSBURG: HARES AND 'CHIZHIKS'
    By Philip Marriott The Moscow News

    Moscow News (Russia)
    September 1, 2004

    Spending a few days in St. Petersburg can present you with a
    difficult choice as far as sightseeing goes; there is just too much
    to see and wonder at that it's hard to know where to start. Anything
    located in the centre will shake Moscow out of the hair, certainly
    looking at the architecture or other visual attractions. And then of
    course further afield are Peterhof, or Repino.

    Take one of the canal trips through the city centre and you will
    learn why Petersburg has been described in the past as a floating
    city between two worlds. Without a doubt this is the best way to see
    the city as you pass by former palaces of the tsarist elite,
    barracks, and gardens like the Letny Sad or Summer Garden containing
    antique sculptured figures from classical mythology along with
    allegorical figures of such notions as wisdom, truth etc. The Summer
    Garden is right next to Marsovo Polye or Mars Field with its monument
    to the Unknown Soldier. The boat takes you across the Neva to show
    you the battleship Aurora and Petropavlovskaya Krepost - Peter's
    castle, the original core of St. Petersburg. Some things you won't be
    able to see from the boat however are the beautiful Armenian and
    Catholic churches on Nevsky Prospekt (Nevsky Avenue). The Armenian
    with one of the latest additions to the town, a fountain in the form
    of a tree bearing pomegranates, the Catholic one under renovation and
    with a very informative display about the history of the church
    itself and some of the horrors it and its congregation have gone
    through.

    Recent additions to the monuments in the city include two charming
    bronze sculptures, one of which is the Hare atop a wooden pillar just
    under one of the bridges leading to Zayachy Ostrov (Hare Island). You
    can also see living compatriots nearby in the zoo - a good option if
    you are with kids. The other monument on a small scale is the Chizhik
    or bird sculpture on the wall of the Fontanka canal and opposite the
    famous house of the same name - a former palace of Sheremetyev and
    later where Anna Akhmatova lived and received her famous visitor
    Isaiah Berlin. The bird commemorates the fact that former students of
    the law school nearby were called Chizhik-Pizhiks because the colors
    of their uniform were the same as the bird. A rhyme grew up on the
    theme of the students secretly going to a notorious nearby drinking
    place. 'Chizhik-Pizhik, gdye ty byl: where have you been? Drinking
    vodka by the Fontanka. I had one, I had a few and now...I'm drunk!'
    It gets lost in translation!MN
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