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  • Prague's Cinematic Jukebox

    PRAGUE'S CINEMATIC JUKEBOX
    by Jonathan Gainer

    PopMatters, IL
    http://www.popmatters.com/pm/features/article/515 03/pragues-cinematic-jukebox/
    Dec 14 2007

    The turning leaves weren't the only autumnal attraction back in Prague
    this October. For its fourth year, the MOFFOM festival - short for
    Music on Film, Film on Music - unspooled in a kaleidoscopic gaze at
    our musical past and present. Over 60 filmmakers and musicians from
    21 countries made their way along with 10,000 viewers to Prague's Kino
    Lucerna, Europe's oldest, and arguably most beautiful, cinema complex.

    As a niche festival centering on the infinitely-variable genre of the
    music film, MOFFOM combines ardent affection for both mediums with
    a belief that bringing the two together will produce a transcendent
    sensory experience. "The films have a smaller audience than narrative
    features do," MOFFOM Program Director Keith Jones told me, "But they
    have enormous power, both to entertain and to inform, because they're
    truthful and honest and based in reality."

    They also offer rarefied glimpses at musical contexts unknown outside
    musicological circles. It was like stepping into Aladdin's lamp,
    complete with surround-sound. And by lacing an ambitious five-day
    schedule of celluloid seances with shin-digs and live performances,
    the festival format seemed to pay homage to Prague's century-spanning
    alchemical traditions while enticing participants to ponder the
    interrelationship between sound and screen.

    "Seeing a piece of visual art can really change the way I perceive
    reality and my place in reality," says multi-instrumentalist and
    composer Fred Frith, whose musical and cinema compositions are
    the subject of this year's MOFFOM retrospective. "I think hearing
    something can do that, too. And in some ways, hearing reaches places
    that visual things cannot reach."

    While music in fiction film usually punctuates or underscores the
    emotional resonance of stories, many of the documentary films on view
    reversed this relationship. In screening after screening, music was
    the story: alongside punk, funk, jazz, reggae and avant classical
    performers, there were also Iranian santour, Belgian chanson, Russian
    underground, tango, jazz, samba, nomadic, country and fado musicians.

    It was almost too much to see, too much to hear, were it not for the
    genre's ability to root the grooves and leitmotifs in communities
    beyond earshot.

    My first eye-opener was the role a mansion in the New York Berkshires
    played in mapping and expanding the history of America's native art
    form, jazz. Legendary indie-producer Ben Barenholtz (Barton Fink
    Requiem for a Dream) presented his directorial debut film, Music
    Inn, which chronicles the evolution of a 1950's summer hideaway for
    musicians into the first "school for jazz" and the context of legendary
    collaborations. Roundtable discussions led by musicological sages
    Alan Lomax and Marshall Stearns united so many pioneering virtuosos
    that it would be easier to cite the ranks of canonical jazz masters
    who did not attend. What emerges is a gripping portrait of a milieu
    converging upon its own history, and in so doing finding the confidence
    to riff its way through an ever-widening legacy.

    One branch of that improvisational heritage is freestyle hip-hop,
    which director Kevin Fitzgerald tracks with his grainy, flava-laden
    documentary Freestyle: Tthe Art of Rhyme. Taking the lacerated,
    street-level texture of hip-hop mix tapes as an aesthetic mandate,
    Fitzgerald weaves a battle-cycle between reigning rhyme-slinger
    Supernatural and contender Craig G. into a polyphonic tableau of this
    combative urban sub-culture and its precarious lyricism.

    With projector lights cooling for the day, audio and visual contingents
    converged in the high splendor of the Cafe Lucerna, a sensuously
    smoky, art nouveau interior that might have been dreamt-up by Gustav
    Klimpt on opium, but which was actually the brainchild of President
    Vaclav Havel's grandfather, who commissioned the space in 1911 as
    the gastronomical centerpiece of his burgeoning entertainment complex.

    Don Letts, renowned musician of Big Audio Dynamite fame and director
    of two festival films - George Clinton: Tales of Dr. Funkenstein
    and Clash on Broadway - is midway through a DJ set that will dump
    the entire contents of the Mothership onto a raunchily appreciative
    dance floor. It is here, in this transformed salon-de-la-funk, that
    the festival's lifeblood most vibrantly pulses.

    As airline bottles of vodka donated by a sponsor are imbibed
    with flagrant DIY spiritus, a spontaneous consensus arises that
    our cortexes have been blissfully singed by the radical chic of
    Julien Temple's Joe Strummer- the Future is Unwritten. Aft of the
    bar I encounter John Caulkins, Founder and Director of MOFFOM, in a
    conversation with Susan Dynner about punk's legacy. Dynner's film,
    Punk's Not Dead, is a tightly-woven swan song to the durability of
    the punk spirit, sung by a hydra of 81 talking head-thrusters. But
    where is Punk now? "Experimenting with new forms," Caulkins says,
    "Whether out of revolt, or purely musical intentions, or something
    provocatively intimate - that's where punk is now."

    "Did I hear someone ask where punk's at now?", inquires music
    journalist Tom Pryor. "Punk's standing right behind you," he says,
    nodding at Kevin Fitzgerald. "The man had to pinch footage to finish
    his film, but when the owners saw the finished product, they granted
    him rights to use it because they recognized his achievement."

    As Fitzgerald is deservingly feted, conversation segues into
    inter-medium appropriation. "Look at About a Son," says Keith Jones,
    referring to AJ Schnack's film about Kurt Cobain's antecedents. "It
    stands on its own as an art film about the despair of growing up in a
    kind of post-industrial American bleakness. But because Cobain's name
    and personality are attached to it, it drew a large audience, a fan
    base that might not be exposed to that normally. But now that they
    have been, maybe they'll make those connections and take them further."

    Jones' film Durban Poison - co-directed with Michael Lee and Deon
    Mass and screening in an out-of-competition section of the festival -
    is a documentary testament to the precariousness of such connections.

    The filmmakers originally aspired to chronicle the transformation of
    the Stable Theatre in Durban, South Africa, from an apartheid-era
    locus of creative dissent into a post-apartheid platform for Zulu
    nationalism. They planned to document renowned musical dramatist
    Mbongeni Ngema (of Sarafina fame) at work on a musical about the
    theatre's history, hoping that, in the process, concentric fields
    of metaphors would blossom about the relationship between drama and
    historical memory.

    But like the history it was chasing, the project's reality proved ever
    elusive as prominent advocates of the theatre were brought down by
    political corruption inquiries and a rather funny sex scandal. The
    filmmakers then dolefully spun the camera to document their own
    frustration at the project's tragic outlook midway through production,
    but the situation spun back, this time as farce with the instant,
    unexpected celebrity of director Deon Mass, whose X-Factor-spinoff
    reality show had a meteoric spike in popularity.

    Giddily parlaying this new cache into leverage on the Stable project,
    the filmmakers set upon the theatre with renewed if quixotic vigor.

    As the film proceeds towards its denouement, tonal inconsistencies
    suggest a waning in directorial unison, but a serenade to street
    children on a nocturnal Durban beach belies a flicker of optimism for
    the Stable's - and Africa's - spiritual future within the shorter-term
    eclipse of the project.

    Up continent, the attempts of Nigerian singer-activist Femi Kuti to
    channel the ferocious rhythms of an even more troubling and corrupt
    political situation are chronicled with the hectic and distraught
    resilience of its subject in Dan Ollman's Suffering and Smiling. I'd
    heard the music before, and had even seen Kuti play live. But seeing
    footage of him struggling to find rhythm for his rage at a president
    who had headed the Nigerian military at the time its soldiers threw
    his grandmother out a window added a new dimension to both the man
    and the music.

    The difficulty with using presidents as muses seems a familiar refrain
    in the cinema of protest music. Carla Garapedian's Screamers explores
    Californian heavy metal band System of a Down's outrage at the Turkish
    government's denial of the Armenian genocide. And Barbara Kopple
    and Cecilia Peck enthrall Prague audiences with their 2006 Shut Up &
    Sing, which follows the Texas-based Dixie Chicks in their fight to
    maintain dignity and a country-music fan base while radio networks
    ban their music and patriots burn their CDs following their criticism
    of George Bush and the Iraq War.

    "It's nice seeing a festival founded by Americans show films like this
    in Rumsfeld's 'New Europe'", says Hary Jordanov, a Prague resident from
    Bulgaria I meet at Lucerna. And while politics is not a deliberate
    part of the MOFFOM program, festival-founder Caulkins has lived in
    Prague for 15 years and is sensitive to his host city's perception of
    it. "If there is a message, it's about spreading the music and giving
    a wide audience the chance to see good films," Caulkins tells me. His
    success at attracting an ever-increasing proportion of corporate
    sponsorship makes the festival more sustainable by the year, while
    keeping ticket prices charitably low guarantees its accessibility.

    On a more personal note, Pavla Fleischer's film, The Pied Piper of
    Hutzovina, which took third place in the competition, accompanies
    Ukrainian gypsy singer-songwriter and Gogol Bordello frontman Eugene
    Hutz on a search for familial and musical roots in a Gypsy Diaspora
    reaching from Carpathia to Siberia. Hutz's hip-hop and punkish
    variations on gypsy idioms are fiercely rejected by a renowned
    orthodox Romanista composer, provoking movingly humble reflections on
    his musical and spiritual migration. Later, when his genre-bending
    innovations are embraced by virtuoso Sascha Kolpachov, Hutz's idol,
    the ensuing ambivalent calm suggests that the natural state of an
    emigres identity is one of perpetual flux.

    The festival's one narrative feature to draw big audiences is John
    Carney's aptly-titled Once (which was shown twice, after an initial
    sell-out prompted a second screening). A long-shot at Sundance, it took
    that festival by storm, and single readers in America might remember
    this romantic comedy about busker and Frames-frontman Glen Hansard's
    bittersweet affair with a Czech flower-girl as 2007's unlikely
    midsummer date movie. It was one of the festival's uber-moments,
    when Czech directorial eminences Jizi Menzel, Jan Svenkmayer and Jan
    Hrejbek turned up in the same audience to inspect the indie arriviste.

    Film festivals have a distorting effect on perception after a few
    days. The transformative, alchemical mix of screenings and performances
    and parties melts the boundaries between characters while stories
    blend and overlap - 'festival-head', some call it. The vodka-providing
    sponsors are partly to blame for this. Seeing Hansard step into the
    Lucerna Cafe after I'd seen both his movie and live performance that
    day provoked a prismatic reflection on both man and music.

    If his fictionalized character was more neatly-constructed than the
    complicated history scorched into his real-life features, his voice
    on stage was larger than film. In fact, my ears were still ringing
    with the profane and soulful vengeance of that voice, which lent
    authority to his persona as the troubled romantic hero of a narrative
    feature. The musician and his fictionalized persona seemed symbiotic,
    even complimentary, and I found myself imagining the day as a kind
    of musical conversation between Hansard and his simulacrum.

    Only hours earlier, Frith had described to me a very different
    relationship to a version of his real-life 'character' frozen in
    Nicolas Humbert and Wernaer Penzel's gorgeous 1990 cinema-verite
    masterpiece Step Across the Border. "Every time I saw myself opening
    my mouth on screen," Frith explained, "I sort of cringed with
    embarrassment. What it told me to do was to learn how to let go of
    certain aspects of myself. So in the end, the process of making and
    watching the film was like a process of shedding a skin. It allowed
    me to get rid of a lot of things. So when I see the film now, I don't
    even see myself. I see this rather peculiar character gallivanting
    around the place doing strange things with strange people."

    Perhaps it was the advanced festival-head, but I started thinking,
    crazily, that it might be good to ban narrative feature films in
    South Africa. What if the political corruptibles in Durban Poison,
    denied a feature-fix, could have a Frithian shedding experience when
    confronted with the cringing realities depicted in the film? It was
    just a thought, and happily I kept it to myself, but recalling the
    burners of Dixie Chicks CDs, I still think it might be a viable policy
    for Texas. Then again, they might be proud of it.

    Midway through the festival's wrap-up party-actually another spirited
    throw-down-word spread that Raul de la Fuente's Nomadak Tx, a doc about
    traveling Basque txalaparta musicians, has won the festival's highest
    laurel, the Audience Award. It's a watershed moment for the organizers,
    because the film that viewers have chosen is a formal embodiment of
    MOFFOM's highest principles. The txalaparta, a marimba-resembling
    instrument made of sonorous, parallel shafts, is one of the world's
    only instruments played by two people in communication.

    The documentary follows two txalaparta virtuosos on their visits to
    Shamanic musicians in India, singing herders in the Arctic Lapland,
    nomadic Mongolian horsemen, and Bedouins in the Algerian Sahara.

    Using music as a lingua franca, the musicians build a new txalaparta
    in each destination out of indigenous materials (in the arctic,
    ice-blocks are used) and incorporate local musicians and motifs into
    the music they record. As the film builds to its crescendo, a visual
    montage re-visits steps in their journey while an audio track remixes
    the voices and rhythms of these communities separated by history,
    language and geography into a conversation that is pure music.

    * * *

    Prague's MOFFOM festival takes place each year in late October.
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