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Culinary Child: Restaurant Owner Followed Idol's Footsteps

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  • Culinary Child: Restaurant Owner Followed Idol's Footsteps

    Orange County Business Journal, CA
    June 3 2007

    Culinary Child

    Restaurant Owner Followed Idol's Footsteps; Expanded With Bakery,
    Cafe, More Locations

    By Jessica C. Lee

    In late 2001, Zov Karamardian's dream came true.

    Karamardian, owner of Zov's Bistro, Bakery and Cafe in Tustin, hosted
    a culinary concert with her idol, the late Julia Child, and famed
    chef Emeril Lagasse, at her restaurant.

    It was Child who inspired Karamardian to enter the culinary world.

    Karamardian was one of five women honored at the Business Journal's
    13th annual Women in Business Award luncheon at the Hyatt Regency
    Irvine on May 24.

    What started out as a small, 1,500-square-foot cafe and bakery in the
    1980s has grown to a 13,000-square-foot restaurant that includes
    Zov's Bistro, Zov's Cafe and Bakery and a private banquet room.

    Earlier this year, Karamardian opened a 3,200-square-foot restaurant
    in Newport Coast. She said she plans to open another in Irvine in
    November. She declined to disclose yearly sales for the business.

    Her family - husband Gary, son Armen and daughter Taleene - helps run the
    restaurants. She credits them for her accomplishments.

    `I love working with my family,' she said. `Each person does their
    own thing. It's harmonious.'

    As a kid, Karamardian spent her afternoons watching and mimicking
    Child - a cook, author and TV personality known for introducing French
    cuisine to America - as she prepared this and that dish.

    Mixing, marinating and baking with her idol, Karamardian, originally
    from Israel, tattooed Child's instructions into her brain along with
    all of the Armenian family recipes she's memorized since emigrating
    from the Middle East to San Francisco in 1959.

    She said she found solace in watching `The Julia Child Show.' It made
    assimilating to American culture easier, Karamardian said.

    The culinary concert celebration wasn't the last time Karamardian and
    Child connected. They were friends the last 10 years of Child's life
    until she died in 2004, according to Karamardian.

    `Cooking with Julia Child was incredible. She was such a wonderful
    woman,' she said. `I always watched Julia Child on television when I
    was in high school and every day until she was off the air. She was
    really the one (who taught) me how to cook.'

    Karamardian, who started Zov's Bistro, Bakery and Cafe in 1987, began
    getting involved in national culinary groups.

    It was through networking that she finally got to meet Child, who
    eventually became her mentor, Karamardian said. Her memories with
    Child are unforgettable, she said.

    Karamardian's been recognized with the Angel Award from the James
    Beard Foundation in 2002. Her bakery's been named one of the `Best
    Bakeries in Southern California' by Gourmet Magazine in 2001 and
    `Best Bakery in America' by the Food Network in 2004.

    Such recognition has been surreal, Karamardian said. But she's had
    her share of challenges.

    Karamardian started her business from scratch. She never went to
    culinary school or worked in a restaurant, she said. Not to mention
    she didn't have any experience running a business, Karamardian said.

    `Everything I have done for this restaurant has been from the school
    of hard knocks,' she said. `This whole business has been a great
    journey. The success I have now is astonishing because the odds are
    against you when you start. The only thing that made the difference
    was passion. Passion is what drove me. It still drives me.'

    For years, Zov's was open Tuesday through Saturday. Now her two
    restaurants serve breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner seven days a
    week. She employs nearly 200 people and serves up to 1,200 customers
    a day, she said.

    Karamardian's restaurants specialize in Middle Eastern and
    Mediterranean comfort foods. Dishes include roasted rack of lamb with
    mashed potatoes, baba ghanouj (pureed roasted eggplant with tahini,
    lemon and olive oil), seafood and wild rice stuffed grape leaves and
    tabouleh - a salad made of bulgar wheat, parsley, tomatoes and
    cucumbers.

    All of Zov's meals are made from scratch with fresh produce, meats,
    grains, seafood and olive oil, she said.

    `The food here is comforting and it's really balanced,' she said.

    Karamardian's acclaimed culinary style has led her to teach cooking
    classes at her restaurant and at Sur La Table in Newport Beach. It's
    even pushed her to self publish a cookbook in 2005, `Zov: Recipes and
    Memories from the Heart,' which is in its second printing.

    Karamardian said she's writing another cookbook about brunch. She
    said she's also focused on growing her two latest restaurants and
    launching more cooking classes and speaker events.

    http://www.ocbj.com/industry_article_pay.asp?aID =31317842.6400289.1482793.6662592.1221753.588& aID2=114052
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