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  • Earth, Fire, Water

    EARTH, FIRE, WATER

    Atlantic Online
    Oct 18 2007

    In the following excerpt from Eastward to Tartary: Travels in the
    Balkans, the Middle East, and the Caucasus (Random House, 2000),
    I offer one perspective on the historical experience of the Armenians.

    Yet while I am sympathetic to the Armenian worldview and support
    some form of commemoration of what they have suffered, I believe
    that given the specific circumstances of the moment, with our troops
    risking their lives for a better Iraq, and the Turks contemplating an
    invasion of northern Iraq, now is the worst possible moment to anger
    the Turks with a Congressional resolution recognizing the Armenian
    genocide. Alas, justice will yet again have to wait.

    The Armenian capital of Yerevan sits under the spell of Mount Ararat,
    soaring 16,874 feet over the surrounding plain; a giant smoky-blue
    pyramid capped by a craggy head of silvery-white snow. On many days,
    the summit emerges from a platform of clouds halfway up the sky, like
    a new universe in formation. The name Ararat is from the Armenian root
    for "life" and "creation," ara. Mount Ararat is Armenia's national
    symbol, appearing on maps and banners and in paintings.

    Ararat is where Noah's Ark is supposed to have come to rest. In nearby
    Echmiadzin, the Armenian Vatican, where sits the "Catholicos of All
    Armenians," a shard of stone said to be petrified wood from the Ark
    is embedded in a silver-plated icon. Armenians choose to think they
    are the first people who settled the earth after the Deluge.

    >From the unfinished cement balcony of my hotel room, Mount Ararat
    looks close enough to touch-a pure and dreamlike vision of heaven that
    humbles the ramshackle iron roofs and barracks-style apartment blocks
    of Yerevan. But Ararat is unreachable. It lies beyond the border
    with Armenia's historic enemy, Turkey. The border between the two
    countries is sealed with barbed wire. In the words of an Armenian poem:

    We have already seen the other side of the moon.

    But when will we see the other side of Ararat?

    Ararat's power as a mythic symbol is intensified by its location
    in Turkey. Ararat calls forth the forbidden land-the lost part of
    historic Armenia encompassing much of present-day Turkey and the
    site of the 1915 genocide, when a crumbling Turkish regime starved,
    exiled, and killed over a million Armenians. Whenever they look
    toward the southwestern horizon at the awe-inspiring mountain,
    the inhabitants Yerevan are reminded of ancient and medieval glory,
    and of twentieth-century mass murder.

    Armenia is the quintessential Near Eastern nation: conquered,
    territorially mutilated, yet existing in one form or another in the
    Near Eastern heartland for 2,600 years, mentioned in ancient Persian
    inscriptions and in the accounts of Herodotus and Strabo. Armenians
    trace their roots to Hayk, son of Torgom, the great-grandson of
    Japheth, a son of Noah himself. While their rivals the Medes
    and Hittites disappeared, the Armenians remained intact as an
    Indo-European people with their own language, akin to Persian. In the
    first century B.C., under Tigran the Great, Hayastan (what Armenians
    call Annenia) stretched from the Caspian Sea in the east to central
    Turkey in the west incorporating much of the Caucasus, part of Iran,
    and all of Syria. In A.D. 301, Armenians became the first people to
    embrace Christianity as a state religion; today, Orthodox Armenia
    represents the southeastern edge of Christendom in Eurasia. In 405,
    the scholar Mesrop Mashtots invented the Armenian alphabet, still in
    use today. (When I remarked to a friend in Yerevan that the Armenian
    alphabet looked vaguely similar to the Georgian one, she shrieked:
    "Nonsense. There is a joke that when the Georgians needed an alphabet,
    they asked Mashtots, who took the macaroni he was eating and threw it
    against the wall. The patterns it made became the Georgian alphabet.")

    Armenia soon became engulfed by the Roman and Byzantine empires. But
    when the Arab caliphate fell into decline in the ninth tenth centuries,
    Armenia rose again as a great independent kingdom under the Bagratid
    dynasty, with its capital at Ani, in present-day Turkey.

    In the eleventh century, the Seljuk Turk chieftain Alp Arsla1 overran
    Ani, Kars, and the other Armenian fortresses, destroying over ten
    thousand illuminated manuscripts, copied and painted at Armenia
    monasteries. Independent Armenia survived in the form of baronies
    but eventually fell under the rule of Turks, Persians, and, later,
    the Russian czars and commissars. It is the Russian part which forms
    today's independent state.

    Now squeezed between Turkey to the west, Iran to the south, Azerbaijan
    to the east, and Georgia to the north-with its lost, far-flung
    territories lying in all directions-this newly independent former
    Soviet republic straddles the Caucasus and the Near Eastern desert to
    the south. Like Israel, Armenia is a small country-its population is
    only 3.5 million-surrounded on three sides by historical enemies (the
    Anatolian Turks, the Azeri Turks, and the Georgians), but it boasts a
    dynamic merchant tradition and a wealthy diaspora. Beirut, Damascus,
    Aleppo, Jerusalem, Teheran, and Istanbul all have influential Armenian
    communities. Jews and Armenians also share the legacy of genocide. The
    Nazis' World War II slaughter of the Jews was inspired partly by that
    of the Armenians in World War I.

    "Who today remembers the extermination of the Armenians?" Hitler
    remarked in 1939.

    I had come to Armenia because I wanted to see the other side.

    Throughout Turkey, Georgia, and Azerbaijan, I had heard people crudely,
    matter-of-factly curse the Armenians. The Armenians have been despised
    in these countries the way the Israelis and Jews have been in much of
    the Arab world, compared with "lice" and "fleas" sucking the blood
    from native peoples. I had come to Armenia to look again at the
    issue of national character, for here was a distinctly identifiable
    people and a country that was more ethnically homogeneous than most
    others in the region: While Jews comprise 83 percent of Israel's
    population, Armenians make up 93 percent of Armenia's. (Armenia
    used to be multiethnic, but with the collapse of the Soviet Union,
    hundreds of thousands of ethnic Azeris fled to Azerbaijan and abroad,
    while a similar number of ethnic Armenians fled Azerbaijan.)

    Finally, I had come here to end my journey where it began: in the
    Balkans. Of course, Armenia is not exactly in the Balkans, situated
    as it is at the opposite end of Turkey from Bulgaria and Greece.

    However, along with Greece, Bulgaria, Macedonia, and Serbia, Armenia
    was central to the tangle of nationality problems arising from the
    death of the Ottoman empire, a headache that bedeviled European
    statesmen at the turn of the twentieth century and that collectively
    was known as the "Eastern question." It was the national movements
    of the late, nineteenth-century Balkans that had inspired Armenian
    revolutionaries seeking freedom from both the Turkish sultans and
    the Russian czars.

    But there was a crucial difference between the revolt of the Greeks and
    the Slavs against the Turks in the Balkans and the Armenian revolt:
    against the Turks in eastern Anatolia. The Balkans lay within the
    Ottoman empire but outside Turkey itself, so only imperial control was
    at issue; while in eastern Anatolia, Turkish and Armenian communities
    fought over the same soil. That is partly why-in the shadow of Mount
    Ararat-traditional ethnic killing first acquired a comprehensive and
    bureaucratic dimension...

    The Armenian Genocide Memorial stands on a plateau overlooking
    Yerevan, in the same splendid isolation as the Yad Vashem Holocaust
    Memorial outside Jerusalem. It consists of a forty-four-meter-high
    dark-granite needle and twelve inward-leaning basalt slabs forming an
    open tent over an eternal flame, with a museum and offices located
    underground. The Armenian Genocide, like the Jewish Holocaust, was
    an event that grew-rather than diminished-in significance over the
    decades, to the point where it became a collective memory of mythic
    proportions. The Jews created an identity for the Holocaust, as the
    Armenians did for the massacres at the hands of the Turks, as blacks
    did for slavery. Partly because the Armenian Genocide was harder than
    the Holocaust to isolate from the other violence of a world war, the
    term genocide is relatively new, applied retrospectively decades later.

    Because the genocide occurred in the Turkish part of Armenia rather
    than in the Russian part, where the current Armenian state is located,
    its memory has always resonated more in the diaspora with its
    communities of survivors than in Yerevan itself --especially since
    any discussion of the genocide in Soviet Armenia was discouraged by
    Moscow, fearful as it was of a nationalist revival.

    Nevertheless, in 1965, there was a major demonstration here on the
    fiftieth anniversary of the massacres. This prompted Leonid Brezhnev to
    make a canny decision. He recognized that a sharpening of hostilities
    between NATO-member Turkey and a Soviet republic on Turkey's eastern
    border would benefit the Kremlin at a time when enthusiasm for the
    Cold War was waning; it would also allow the local population in
    a strategic and relatively prosperous Soviet republic to express
    its rage. This is why Brezhnev ordered the construction of the
    Genocide Monument in Yerevan. Completed by two Armenian architects
    in 1967, it is a Soviet-style edifice of brutish socialist realism,
    indistinguishable from many of the war memorials I had seen throughout
    the former Warsaw Pact nations, with weeds growing between the cracks
    of poorly laid stones.

    Recognizing the genocide was one thing; actively encouraging its
    memory was another. "The Soviets used the genocide as a political
    weapon against Turkey but did not teach it in Armenian schools,"
    Laurenti Barsegian, the Genocide Museum director, told me over
    glasses of cognac and "Armenian coffee" at ten in the morning. What
    had really ignited the collective memory of the genocide was the
    terrorist campaign against Turkish diplomats in the 1980s, organized
    by Beirut-based Armenians. "Killing Turkish diplomats was wrong,
    for they are just as human as we are," the museum director declared,
    "but, ironically, it worked. The genocide became more widely known."

    Then came Mikhail Gorbachev's glasnost, and, with it, the explosion
    of ethnic nationalism in Nagorno-Karabakh and the rest of the
    Caucasus. "The enemy in Karabakh was not the Azeri Turks but our own
    past," Mikayel Hambardzumyan, a young local reformer, explained to
    me. "The genocide had given Armenians a nationalism built on defeat
    and masochism, like the Serbs and Shi'ites," he said, "but now the
    victory in Karabakh has changed that. It has made our nationalism
    healthier." I noticed that some Armenian war dead from Karabakh were
    buried at the Genocide Monument, merging formally the crime committed
    against the Armenian nation at the beginning of the twentieth century
    with the ugly revenge exacted at its end.

    Because the memory of the genocide had always burned deeper in the
    diaspora, Karabakh became the diaspora's war as much as Yerevan's,
    with money and volunteers coming from Armenian communities around
    the world. "Karabakh-much more than independence from the Soviet
    Union-unified Armenia with the diaspora," Aris Khazian, a geographer
    and intellectual, told me.

    >From the office of the director, I entered the museum, commissioned
    by post-Soviet Armenia's first president, Levon Ter-Petrosian, and
    opened in April 1995, on the eightieth anniversary of the genocide,
    completing the memorial complex begun by the Soviets on the fiftieth
    anniversary. The official anniversary of the genocide is April 24,
    the night in 1915 when the Turkish authorities arrested the political,
    intellectual, and religious leaders of the Armenian community in
    Istanbul and deported them to the Anatolian interior, where all were
    savagely murdered.

    In the museum's somber basalt interior, I faced a wall-size map, made
    of stone, showing all the Armenian settlements of eastern Anatolia:
    Trabzon, Van, Erzurum, Diyarbekir, Bitlis, Sivas, and so on: 2,133,190
    Armenian inhabitants, 1,996 Armenian schools, and 2,925 churches. I
    had traveled often through these now Turkish cities, where, except
    for the occasional ruin of a church turned into a pigsty that I had
    seen outside Trabzon, every trace of Armenian civilization has been
    erased. Nor do the Turkish authorities acknowledge that Armenians
    once lived on their soil. The Germans could concede their crime
    against the Jews because postwar Germany was forced to adopt the
    values and institutions of the Western allies and because the Jews
    had been a minority with no territorial claim-unlike the Armenians,
    whose very existence threatens Turkey's right to sovereignty over
    eastern Anatolia. In the Near East, where states built on a single
    tribal identity occupy formerly mixed areas, to acknowledge crimes
    against a whole people is to put your own dominion in doubt.

    Passing through the dimly lit hallway, seeing grainy old photos of
    beheaded Armenians that the Turks had lined up on shelves, naked bodies
    stacked on hillsides and in trenches, and corpses swinging a few inches
    off the ground from makeshift gallows, I reflected on the trail of
    events that sparked such barbarism. I realized then that the Turkish
    atrocities against the Armenians-more than the Nazi Holocaust-are
    the appropriate analogy for recent events in Bosnia, Kosovo, Rwanda,
    and East Timor, among other places. Hitler had no territorial motive
    for his industrialized racial killing. Indeed, the focus on killing
    the Jews may have distracted his war machine from fighting his real
    strategic enemy, the Russians. But eastern Anatolia in 1915-like
    Bosnia, Kosovo, and Rwanda-was a battlefield upon which two peoples
    fought over the same soil, with one in a strong enough position
    to destroy the other. The Armenian Genocide-like the humanitarian
    disasters of the 1990s-was mass slaughter arising from ethnic conflict
    over territory. Thus, what happened in eastern Anatolia is politically
    and morally a more complicated event than the Holocaust. Because the
    early twenty-first century may see more such humanitarian emergencies,
    the Armenian Genocide will grow in significance.

    The Armenian Genocide occurred during World War I, when Ottoman
    Turkey was allied with Germany against czarist Russia and the Western
    allies. While an Allied fleet was bombarding the Dardanelles in
    western Turkey, eastern Turkey was open to Russian attack. At the
    same time, Armenians in eastern Turkey (Anatolia) were deserting the
    Moslem Turkish army and joining their fellow Orthodox Christians on
    the Russian side, and Armenians farther to the east in the Caucasus
    were organizing anti-Turkish militias. A brutal competition for land
    in eastern Anatolia made relations among the Turkish, Armenian, and
    Kurdish inhabitants even worse, with Armenian villagers refusing
    to pay taxes to the Kurdish tribesmen who controlled the area on
    behalf of the Ottoman Turkish authorities. The Turks, in effect,
    subcontracted the slaughter of the Armenians to the Kurds, whose
    irregulars, the Hamidieh, murdered the Armenians. In many Anatolian
    villages, the absence of Turkish authority was worse than its presence.

    According to Ronald Grigor Suny, the Alex Manoogian Professor
    of Modern Armenian History at the University of Michigan:
    "Political disorder ... led to chaos.... A state of war existed
    between the Muslims and the Armenians as the government abdicated
    its responsibilities." Nevertheless, the various local massacres
    suggested a deliberate policy crafted in Istanbul. The museum displays
    a document issued by Talaat Pasha, a leading Turkish official,
    ordering the elimination-by whatever means necessary-of Armenians from
    Ottoman lands. Thus, 600,000 to 1.5 million people were murdered and
    exiled-people who had inhabited Anatolia for a thousand years before
    the Turks arrived. "In my apartment I have the key to my grandfather's
    house in Erzurum, in western Armenia, a house I can never enter
    because it is now in Turkey," an Armenian friend in Yerevan told me.

    While specific individuals in the highest reaches of the Turkish
    government ordered the killings, it is also true that imperial
    authority was disintegrating, causing mayhem in distant reaches of the
    empire given over to ethnic hatred-a hatred aggravated by competition
    for scarce land and other resources. The Armenian Genocide was one
    aspect of an unwieldy, multiethnic empire's re-formation into smaller,
    uniethnic states. The same ingredients have been at work in our own
    time: in the Balkans, the Caucasus, the Indonesian archipelago, and
    other places where large-scale human rights abuses have occurred. The
    collapse of empires and the desire for ethnic self-determination and
    regional independence are a messy, bloody business.

    Excerpt from Eastward to Tartary: Travels in the Balkans, the Middle
    East, and the Caucasus, by Robert D. Kaplan (Random House, 2000)

    http://www.theatlantic.com/doc/200710u/kapl an-armenia

    From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress
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