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  • Binding Up the Wounds of War

    AINA, CA

    Binding Up the Wounds of War

    Posted GMT 9-21-2007 17:5:19

    SULAYMANIYAH, Iraq -- When Yousif Almashmos was born in March 2003,
    coalition bombs were falling outside. His family's Baghdad apartment
    swayed as his mother made her way to the hospital. Akram and Sarab
    Almashmos lived near headquarters for Saddam Hussein's security
    services, a prominent target for U.S. forces. Worse, Saddam had
    positioned rocket launchers between houses in the area, making them a
    target for U.S. heat-seekers.

    Some neighbors died in those early days of the U.S. invasion, and
    when her baby was born, Sarab asked God, "Why are you protecting me?
    What is our purpose?" Holding her infant in her arms eight months
    later, she told WORLD she read her Bible that night and decided to
    name her fourth child Yousif, after the ancient patriarch Joseph,
    "because he is not here by accident. God has something for us."

    Now Yousif is a rambunctious boy of four with a dark brown cowlick. He
    likes to drink other people's soda when his is gone and he hops around
    the room eating off the plates of his older sisters or brother. He
    cries when his father refuses to take him on errands. This month he
    starts school, having never known a day in his life without war.

    Four years ago his parents made friends with U.S. soldiers patrolling
    their district, and Sarab said then that she believed they "are coming
    to make the area safer, not to fight." But safer was not to be.
    Militants repeatedly threatened her husband's cosmetics business, and
    they began to feel that the family was targeted because they are
    Chaldean Catholics. Early last year a car bomb exploded on the street
    near his business. Then came Aug. 31, 2006.

    That day at least three car bombs exploded almost simultaneously in
    the district. Within 30 minutes, 64 Iraqis were dead and nearly 300
    wounded. The force of the explosions rocketed Almashmos' shop
    assistant 40 feet into the air and completely leveled the store. The
    assistant survived but lost one leg.

    Two weeks later on Sept. 15, 2006, Akram and Sarab packed their four
    children and some clothes into their car and left Baghdad. On Sept. 4,
    2007, WORLD caught up with them 200 miles away in Sulaymaniyah, once
    an ancient Kurdish capital in northern Iraq, now bulging at an
    estimated 1 million residents or more, thanks to the dangers wrought
    by Shiite and Sunni militias and terrorists in cities to the
    south. Across the region cities and villages are filling with families
    like the Almoshmoses--families who are traumatized, dislocated, and
    working to reconstruct their lives against an uncertain future.

    This month's report to Congress by the U.S. commander in Iraq,
    Gen. David Petraeus, along with a Sept. 13 speech by President Bush,
    spelled a shift in strategy--a once open-ended commitment to war in
    Iraq now has fixed parameters and a calendar pegging limited troop
    withdrawals to measurable success. But for Iraqis the debate is less
    political than visceral--less about long-range timetables and overall
    strategy and more about daily survival--how to eat, to work, and to
    protect one's family. Approaching the war's five-year mark, how does a
    prostrate nation bind up the wounds of war?

    For Iraq's religious minorities the question is particularly vital, as
    those groups have been targeted by terrorists and have the most to
    fear from an Iraq hijacked by Islamic militants. The annual growth
    rate among Christians in Iraq has dropped from approximately 3 percent
    in 1950 to -1 percent today.

    For Akram and Sarab, answering that question meant coming north, even
    if it meant leaving everything behind, including Sarab's ailing
    mother. Sulaymaniyah in the last 18 months has become home to
    thousands of displaced people like them, religious minorities who face
    threats from Islamic extremists. Across the three northern provinces
    known as Kurdistan, an estimated 30,000-50,000 Christians are taking
    refuge. In contrast to some reports in the United States, they say
    they are finding a haven not only from violence but from
    persecution. This month Kurdish officials gave a tentative go-ahead
    for a new evangelical church in Sulaymaniyah to serve the displaced
    from Baghdad, according to pastor Ghassan Thomas, and the government
    currently is backing the construction of more than 40 churches in the
    region.

    Sulaymaniyah is home to Iraq's current president, Jalal Talabani, and
    sits among high desert hills at about 2,500 feet above sea level. It
    once boasted having Tucson as its sister city. Now it boasts
    overcrowded streets, construction cranes across the skyline, and a
    multi-ethnic, multi-religious revival in what until the war was
    largely a Kurdish enclave. The north has a tax- and duty-free policy
    on investments--prompting business interests driven out of Baghdad, as
    well as Turkish and Asian interests, to buy into development here.

    At lunch in a restaurant with Akram and Sarab, a traditionally dressed
    Kurdish family sits to their right, while to their left sits a
    Western-dressed local government official talking business with
    Japanese investors. In the streets burqa-clad women brush shoulders
    with women in short skirts and heels, while men are apparently too
    busy hustling everything from pomegranates to refrigerators to notice
    the changes.

    Landing here for the Almoshmos family has been easier than for many
    displaced. Thanks to a Kurdish business associate in Baghdad, Akram
    found a job as a local television set distributor. He is able to
    employ his now-handicapped former shop assistant. Sarab works for the
    Kurdish Heritage Institute. The Chaldean church here helped the family
    find a one-bedroom flat (for the family of six) and they live with
    borrowed furniture. Through the church they've encountered dozens of
    families without work or decent housing and are helping to assist them
    with monthly food baskets. But on Sept. 6, Sarab learned from a
    Baghdad neighbor that her mother had died, alone and separated by the
    violence.

    City life for some is not solace enough. The village of Bereka is
    nearly as far from Baghdad as you can get without leaving Iraq--350
    miles away from the capital high in the mountains near the Turkish
    border. And that's how far away Bihnan Rehana wants to be. Rehana was
    a resident of Baghdad's Dora district, historically a mostly Christian
    neighborhood, until terrorist groups emptied it door-to-door over the
    last 12 months. Earlier this year terrorists firebombed the Assyrian
    St. George's Church and removed its cross.

    Rehana lived in Dora since 1975. He ran a street market, a good
    business that allowed him to support his wife and five children and to
    afford one of the district's larger houses. Then threats began: "I was
    approached by terrorist groups and asked how many children I had. When
    I told them five, they said, 'Fine, three for you and two for us.'
    They wanted us to pay $10,000 a month as a kind of tax for staying in
    Dora, or they would take my children."

    Such threats follow a pattern described by many displaced Christians
    whom WORLD visited across five northern provinces. Usually
    black-masked militants threaten residents face-to-face or issue
    letters by night demanding that they convert to Islam, pay an
    exorbitant fee, or be killed. "To be safe, be Muslim," is their
    slogan.

    One day the insurgents shot at Rehana's car to show him they were
    serious. Today he keeps the pockmarked sedan parked outside his new
    home in Bereka, the village of his forefathers. When he left Baghdad,
    he said, he left everything except the car and the clothes on his
    back. His youngest children are with relatives in Syria. His oldest
    son remains in Baghdad.

    Rehana knows many Christians who have fled to neighboring Jordan and
    Syria. But like many WORLD spoke to, he believes that Baghdad one day
    will be livable again, and that the better choice is to stay. Judging
    by the four cities, two smaller towns, and eight villages WORLD
    visited across five northern Iraq provinces, he may be right. From the
    remote and mountainous border in the north to the hazy, hot, and
    brittle pastureland of Nineveh Plain, it's possible for an American to
    travel without personal protection, a government minder, or
    U.S. military escort, without a ceramic-plated vest or a
    headscarf. Christians and religious minorities in particular say they
    are welcomed at northern checkpoints, though Kurdish forces are
    notoriously hard on outsiders and reject most cars with Baghdad
    license plates.

    Surprisingly, Kurdish officials in the north--underwritten by oil
    revenues and U.S. reconstruction aid--are taking the first steps to
    rebuild dozens of Assyrian Christian and Chaldean villages. Kurdish
    regional government (KRG) minister of finance Sarkis Aghajan Mamendu
    has made it a priority to fund housing and schools in these villages
    even ahead of Kurdish Muslim villages that were destroyed under Saddam
    Hussein.

    In Bereka the KRG has built 25 concrete slab homes for 25 families
    from Baghdad. It also constructed a school and a church. In the far
    northern district of Dohuk, the Kurdish regional government has built
    1,400 houses, 12 schools, and 13 churches in the last 18
    months. (That's right, a majority Muslim government is building
    churches for displaced Christians.)

    The evidence contrasts with recent reports, including a 2007 report
    filed by the U.S. Commission on International Religious Freedom
    (USCIRF), claiming Kurdish treatment of Assyrians in northern Iraq
    includes "religiously motivated discrimination," confiscation of
    property, and denial of "key social benefits, including employment and
    housing."

    Emanuel Youkhana, an Assyrian priest and director of the Iraqi-German
    humanitarian aid organization CAPNI, called the report "totally
    misinformed." Youkhana, whose group runs a mobile medical clinic and
    other projects in villages across the region, told WORLD, "This is not
    paradise, but in this part of the world it's very easy to get enemies
    when what we need are friends. Iraqi Kurdistan is proving it can be a
    model for religious freedom starting in Iraq, and it needs to be
    supported."

    USCIRF communications director Judith Ingram acknowledged, "We do know
    there is some dispute over these reports," and the commission held
    another set of hearings Sept. 19 on Iraq.

    Area pastors also dispute the wisdom of creating a Christian enclave
    to protect minorities in the region. Pastor Yussuf Matty believes it
    would simply make Christians a bigger target for militant
    Islamists. And he has been successful in registering three schools in
    cities in the north that operate as Christian schools with student
    bodies--now numbering over 1,000--made up largely of Muslims. "What we
    tell the Kurdish officials is we want to work hand in hand with
    Kurdish Muslims, we want to live with you but not at the edge of
    life. We want to be at the heart of Kurdistan, and we want to work
    hard for the good of the community."

    The USCIRF report also cites discrimination against Christians and
    land disputes in Nineveh Plain. But in En Baqr the government has
    built 31 new houses for displaced Chaldean families from Mosul and
    Baghdad. In Karanjo, CAPNI is finishing a church and rows of new
    houses are going up.

    Nineveh Plain falls within Baghdad's administrative zone, and while it
    includes Kurdish, Armenian, Yezedi, and historic Christian villages,
    it has not seen the same level of progress as Kurdish-administrated
    villages further north. Problems and need remain for the estimated
    4,500 displaced families there (one in four families of the total
    population).

    In Germawa, former Baghdad resident Boutros Simon said three families
    are living in his new two-bedroom house because there is not enough
    housing in the village. Some of the new houses lack water and
    electricity. The 22 children in the village go to school in Al Kush,
    about 15 miles away. While there is farming in the area, most of the
    newly displaced don't have jobs. Simon receives about $100 a month in
    government stipend, like other displaced families who register with
    the government--not enough to support everyone under his roof. At
    current prices, a tank of gas in northern Iraq can cost nearly $100.

    Simon said it will take years to sort out land claims all over the
    north, given Saddam Hussein's repeated purges of minority
    communities. He denied reports in the United States of land disputes
    locking out the Assyrian Christians who return to Nineveh Plain:
    "Village councils can present their cases to the government, and we
    are working to provide housing for everyone who comes here."

    When Rehana returned to Bereka he found his family's land farmed by a
    Kurd under a 10-year lease with the local governorate. Without going
    to court, he and other returnees worked out an arrangement allowing
    the Kurd to complete the two years remaining on his lease before
    turning the land over to the Assyrian returnees.

    Simon believes the economic picture will improve in Nineveh province
    if the area were to come under KRG control. That could happen if a
    referendum extending the Kurdish autonomous region as far south as
    Mosul and Kirkuk, encompassing Nineveh Plain, takes place. Under
    Iraq's new constitution, the referendum is to be scheduled before the
    end of 2007. But due to violence in Mosul and Kirkuk, and the debate
    over allocating oil revenues from the area, it's likely to be
    postponed. In the meantime, Simon--speaking for a surprising number of
    the displaced--says he longs for the day when it's safe enough to
    return to Baghdad.

    By Mindy Belz
    www.worldmag.com
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