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    The Dominion Post, New Zealand

    Power Play

    Nuclear Iran's PR offensive - The Dominion Post | Saturday, 22
    September 2007

    Tim Pankhurst reports from Tehran on Iran's bold ambitions in the
    Middle East and beyond.

    Iranian President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad has a message for the West. The
    nuclear dossier is closed. Iran is a nuclear power and the world
    should accept that.

    He told the opening session of a top-level Non-Aligned Movement
    conference in Tehran, attended by ministers from 56 countries and
    observers from another 40, earlier this month that Iran was also ready
    to transfer its nuclear knowhow "to other brotherly countries".

    Iran was cooperating with the watchdog International Atomic Energy
    Agency, he said, and its aims were peaceful. It did not intend to
    develop nuclear weapons.

    Iran argues its population has grown rapidly to 70 million, its
    industry is expanding and it needs to generate electricity by means
    other than oil.

    Elsewhere in Tehran on the same day, Supreme Leader Ayatollah Seyyed
    Ali Khamenei delivered a similar message. Iran was determined to
    develop its scientific prowess in a current "glorious phase". He said
    it was surprising that those who initiated two world wars within 20
    years and committed crimes against humanity in Hiroshima, Nagasaki,
    Iraq, Afghanistan, Palestine and Kosovo were creating obstacles to
    Iran's nuclear programme.

    "In the past 28 years, Iran has never been the initiator of any
    aggression or military strike. Iran withstood and will withstand the
    US bullying and will never yield to pressure."

    Just in case there is any doubt about its nuclear intent, President
    Ahmadinejad has also announced that 3000 uranium-enriching centrifuges
    are in operation and more will be installed every week.

    While the nuclear issue is dominating Western concerns, there is the
    wider issue of Iran's higher profile in the volatile region. Again,
    Iran makes no secret of its ambitions. The president says United
    States power is rapidly collapsing in neighbouring Iraq, and Iran is
    ready to step in to help fill the vacuum.

    Diplomatic activities are intense as Iran seeks to build its influence
    in the Arab and Muslim worlds. In just the first week of this month,
    it announced agreements with Pakistan on fighting drugs;
    anti-terrorism with Kazakhstan; customs and tax policy with
    Afghanistan, Tajikistan and Zimbabwe; maritime cooperation with
    Turkey; water and electricity with Syria; trade tariffs with Armenia;
    international relations with Venezuela; free trade with Persian Gulf
    states; dialogue on Iraq with the Arab League; shipping with Georgia;
    power projects with South Korea; housing with Kenya; and trade with
    Poland. Iran is also a significant aid donor and has built schools and
    hospitals in countries such as Ghana and a just-opened flour mill in
    Venezuela.

    The propaganda front is not being neglected, either. Poor publicity
    by the public relations offices was "the worst weak point of the
    post-revolutionary governments in Iran", according to the president's
    information adviser, Mehdi Kalhor.

    The rhetoric as reported in Tehran's English dailies is
    strident. Ayatollah Mohammed Kashani, addressing Friday prayers at the
    highly politicised Tehran University, said people in the US and Europe
    were living wretched lives.

    According to his vision, family foundation has no real meaning in
    these societies. "Philanthropy, faithfulness, friendly relations,
    love, living with one another and caring for spiritual matters have no
    place in Western societies."

    The Iranian people are also told that the Taleban and al Qaeda were
    founded by US extremists and President George W Bush and that fellow
    neo-conservatives make utmost use of their acts. Iranian Majlis
    (parliament) deputy Kazem Jalali told the Iranian News Agency on
    August 30 "the world's public opinion know that al Qaeda is led by
    Washington".

    Iran is also on the offensive on human rights, pointing to the US role
    in killing civilians in Iraq and its blind support for Israel, no
    matter the cost to the Palestinians. This is despite Iran's public
    hanging of 21 drug smugglers and other criminals this month, bringing
    the total executions to 210 this year. Adultery is also punishable by
    death under classical Islamic sharia law imposed after the 1979
    revolution.

    Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini, the fierce post-revolution leader, argued
    that: "Criminals should not be tried. The trial of a criminal is
    against human rights. Human rights demand we should have killed them
    in the first place when it became known that they were criminals. We
    are executing the brutes."

    Which makes the proposed establishment of a Non-Aligned Movement human
    rights and cultural diversity centre, to be based in Tehran, an
    interesting concept.

    Some of the more extreme rhetoric would be laughable were the stakes
    not so high. And it has to be recognised that Iran has good cause to
    harbour resentment toward the US.

    It was a US-backed coup that overthrew a democratically elected
    government and installed the Shah in 1953.

    In the brutal eight-year war initiated by Saddam Hussein against Iran
    in 1980, the US supplied Iraq with weapons and satellite data,
    protected its oil tankers and turned a blind eye to its use of poison
    gas.

    In 1988, an American warship shot down an Iranian airliner, killing
    290 civilians. And relations reached rock bottom in 2002 when Mr Bush
    lumped Iran in with Iraq and North Korea in an "axis of evil".

    There is talk at senior US Government levels of bombing Iran's
    military and nuclear facilities. This week, France's Foreign Affairs
    Minister, Bernard Kouchner, warned that the world should brace for war
    with Iran, echoing French President Nicolas Sarkozy's hard line.

    The US is convinced that Iran is arming Shi'ite militia, who are
    killing American troops in Iraq, and plans to designate the
    Revolutionary Guards as a terrorist organisation.

    Hamas in the Palestinian territories and Hizbollah in Lebanon are both
    backed by Iran.

    AN AUSSIE at Dubai's vast airport, returning to prospecting work in
    Iran, advises that the Iranians are good people. "But they don't like
    the Americans."

    They are not welcoming to me, either, at the Laleh International
    Hotel. There is no booking, despite the trip being arranged by the
    Iranian embassy in Wellington.

    A journalist? A list is produced and my name does not appear. This is
    not surprising given it is made up of Venezuelans.

    My passport is carried off and they experiment with the name, Teem
    Pank-horst, as if testing its suspiciousness. A woman in a black
    chador peers out from an inner office. At last, a room is provided.

    There is a Koran and a prayer mat in the bedside drawer. An arrow on
    the ceiling in the corner of the room points the way to Mecca.

    The bulky Qur'an, as it is titled, has some advice. Alas, Allah
    withheld his bounty but he did offer: Verily, Allah will defend the
    believers Against their enemies; verily, Allah does Not like the
    ungrateful traitors. And elsewhere: The Fire will scorch their faces
    and They will be grim-looking.

    Right then. Better be on best behaviour.

    That means no alcohol for a start. Beer is readily available, but it
    is non-alcoholic. Why would you bother?

    The exchange rate helps make up for such deprivation. When my wife
    and I roughed it in Iran in 1981 on the hippie trail from Kathmandu to
    London, the official exchange rate was 80 rials to the US dollar and
    120 on the black market. The rate at the hotel is 9200 to the
    dollar. A $50 note returns nearly half a million rials, making the
    wallet too stuffed to close.

    No wonder American academic Roger Stern, from Johns Hopkins
    University, said earlier this year that "the mullahs are doing a good
    job of destroying Iran's economy. They should be left alone to do
    their work. The best policy toward Iran may be to do nothing".

    This is doubly good advice when the US, not content with its fiasco in
    Iraq, is threatening Iran as well.

    Inflation has fallen from a high of 50 per cent 10 years ago, but is
    still officially about 20 per cent.

    Mr Ahmadinejad's proposed solution is an interest-free banking system
    based on Islamic principles and an end to banks' involvement in
    profit-making activities.

    But there are encouraging signs of less hardline attitudes. A Western
    orchestra played in Tehran two weeks ago, the first since the
    revolution.

    Twenty-six years ago, we were among the very few Western tourists who
    entered a highly volatile country and we were treated with suspicion
    everywhere, pitching our tents in a police compound one night after a
    camping ground took our money and then refused to let us stay, and
    sleeping far off the highways in the desert on others.

    In Isfahan, a citizen warned "if you are good, Iran is good". In
    Kerman, I snapped a forbidden picture of an enormous US military
    helicopter on display in the town centre, a trophy of the aborted
    American bid to rescue its staff held hostage in its embassy, labelled
    the "nest of spies" by Iran, for 444 days.

    This time, the Iranians are more relaxed, despite the latest US sabre
    rattling, but there is still a mandatory visit to the disturbingly
    Orwellian Ministry of Culture and Islamic Guidance for a press pass.

    The taxi driver explains that motorists in this oil-rich land, the
    world's fourth-biggest producer, are allowed only 100 litres of petrol
    each a month. The price has just gone up from 800 to 1000 rials a
    litre - about 9 cents. Extra petrol can be bought on a black market
    from those who don't use their full ration at up to six times the
    standard rate.


    Venturing into a peaceful park near the hotel - an oasis of eucalypts
    and pines in the choking traffic - to do some filming, I saw a young
    man lying on a bench spring up. He's a civil engineer and he wants to
    practise his English. He doesn't mind talking about his life and
    politics to the camera and is thoughtful about the troubled
    relationship with the US.

    Once, he says, he thought Iran could be friends with America, but not
    any more. He says Iraq is all about oil and that is America's
    overriding motive in the Middle East.

    Old men play chess at benches and signal that they, too, have no
    objection to being filmed. Courting couples sit chastely on seats
    throughout the trees, the women all wearing the obligatory head
    coverings. With their dark faces framed by the veils, many are
    strikingly beautiful.

    An official slogan is: A woman in a veil is protected like a pearl in
    an oyster shell.

    In a country in the grip of a fundamentalist government, women are
    forbidden even simple contact such as shaking hands with non-family
    members.

    Women's role is in teaching, according to Mr Ahmadinejad "The best and
    most beautiful scene for women's social presence is education and
    training," he said this month.

    The old women who make up my room are happy to talk to
    strangers. "Welcome," they nod and ask where I am from. "New Zealand,"
    they repeat, puzzled but wanting to please.

    "When can women swim in the hotel pool?" I ask one of our media
    guides. "Never," he laughs.

    America is the external evil that keeps the focus away from internal
    absurdities. A common question in a country obsessed with its position
    in the West is: What do you think of Iran?

    How to answer?

    That its people are hospitable and generous, that its suppression of
    women - for a visitor, it is like being in a never-ending nunnery - is
    hard to accept, that we must work at building mutual respect, that
    this is a proud, fascinating and complex country with a rich 7000-year
    history, that it does not deserve to be demonised in the West. And
    that, as much as either side may resist the notion, American and
    Iranian fates are intertwined.

    From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress
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