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  • Rekindling tradition

    Diana Baldrica / The Fresno Bee
    Maggie Sarkuni of Los Angeles stomps on a burlap sack
    containing grapes to produce the juice for the
    traditional sweet prpoor. Karo Khanjian, also from Los
    Angeles, helps adjust the sack. This 800-year-old
    Armenian tradition took place at the Grand Armenian
    Festival at the California Armenian Home in Fresno on
    Saturday. Photo


    Rekindling tradition

    Annual harvest celebration goes public, allowing many
    Armenians to reconnect with their roots.By John Ellis
    / The Fresno Bee09/23/07 05:01:27


    Last year, Hratch Abdulian relived a bit of his
    childhood at an Armenian harvest festival in the
    northern Syrian village of Kessab, where he was
    raised.

    "It was one of the best things I did," said the
    resident of Irvine, in Orange County.

    But though he had heard rumors, Abdulian never has
    been able to find such festivals in the United States
    -- until now.

    On Saturday, he was at the California Armenian Home on
    East Kings Canyon Road, where the Armenian Cultural
    Foundation is going public with an annual harvest
    celebration similar to one that had been held
    privately until now. It is akin to Thanksgiving and
    centers on a sweet grape molasses froth called prpoor.

    The decision to hold a public celebration has allowed
    many Armenians to reconnect with their roots, and this
    weekend they have come from across the nation and even
    Canada. It also gives some non-Armenians a chance to
    experience a uniquely Armenian celebration.

    "Instead of losing the tradition, we are rekindling
    it," said Raffi Zinzalian, who was born in Istanbul,
    Turkey, and lived in Lebanon and Cyprus before moving
    to Southern California, where he is publisher of the
    University of La Verne Press.

    The celebration -- which started Friday and continues
    today -- has roots that stretch back 800 years, but
    many Armenians who come to the United States lose
    touch with such old-world traditions, Abdulian and
    others said.

    It is especially true, they said, in urban areas. In
    Southern California, Abdulian said, "people don't even
    know about" prpoor or the harvest celebration.

    Zinzalian brought his three daughters to show them
    about prpoor. As Abdulian stood over a bubbling
    cauldron of crushed-grape juice with a camcorder in
    his hand, making a tape he plans to send to his family
    in Kessab, Zinzalian told his daughters about the art
    of making prpoor.

    Earlier, the grapes had been crushed and the juice
    boiled for an hour over a wood fire, while men like
    Fresno resident Hratch Hovsepian used ladles to spoon
    impurities from the top of the cauldron.

    The clear, reddish liquid was then put into smaller
    buckets and moved to a large cauldron, where it was
    boiled for several more hours to create a thick
    molasses.

    The festival is said to have started in Abdulian's
    home village, Kessab -- birthplace of Karekin I, the
    Armenian church catholicos who died in 1999.

    For more than 50 years, the celebration has been a
    well-kept secret in Fresno County. Each year, more
    than 100 people have been attending the harvest
    celebration at the Santikian family ranch in Del Rey,
    where they ate, danced and brewed prpoor.

    This weekend's event even attracted non-Armenians such
    as Ken and Pamela Grover, who came out of curiosity.

    The Dinuba residents attend ethnic festivals as much
    as possible -- Japanese, Mexican, east Indian, Greek,
    Arabic. "We like to experience other cultures and
    their food," Ken Grover said.

    And there was plenty of food Saturday -- chicken and
    beef kebab, falafels, kofta and cheese boreg, a
    puff-pastry turnover. There were clothes, jewelry,
    books, handicrafts, CDs and DVDs for sale.

    Music blared near a dance floor.

    Will it catch on with Armenians looking to recapture a
    bit of culture?

    "Today, we find out," said Fowler resident Bedros
    Khederian.
    The reporter can be reached at [email protected]
    Enlarge this imageDiana Baldrica / The Fresno
    BeeHratch Hovsepian takes boiling prpoor from a
    75-gallon container and puts it into buckets to cool.
    The clear juice will be boiled for another three to
    four hours to obtain the sweet grape molasses froth
    called prpoor. Prpoor is at the center of a
    traditional Armenian harvest celebration.

    From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress
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