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  • Rare Jeweller Endangered

    RARE JEWELLER ENDANGERED

    First Post
    http://www.thefirstpost.co.uk/30522,features, rare-jeweller-endangered-by-credit-crunch
    April 22 2008
    UK

    Ralph Esmerian could lose the family jewels over an ill-fated venture
    into Hollywood

    Not even diamonds as big as the Ritz can save Ralph Esmerian from
    the jaws of Wall Street now. A fourth generation rare jewels dealer
    whose Armenian family fled from Paris in 1940, Esmerian enjoyed a
    life of wealth, taste and art collecting in the old money enclave of
    Manhattan's Upper East Side.

    That all ended when he ventured into the brash new world of 21st
    century finance and Hollywood glamour. First, he borrowed $57m from
    Merrill Lynch for what he describes as "estate planning purposes". As
    collateral, he pledged his 'Special Collection'.

    This is not any old second-hand jewellery, but rather pieces for the
    connoisseur, stuff you might find in the treasure chests at the Tower
    of London. It includes the diamond brooch given to Empress Eugenie,
    wife of Napoleon III, and later acquired by Mrs Astor, queen of 1950s
    New York society. Esmerian is - for the moment - the owner of a Van
    Cleef and Arpels brooch 'encrusted' with diamonds and a Rene Lalique
    Art Nouveau bracelet, both of which are worth at least half-a-million.

    And then he borrowed another $120m from his new friends at Merrill
    Lynch. This time the money was for buying the showy Fred Leighton
    jewellery shops on Madison Avenue and in the Bellagio casino in
    Las Vegas.

    Getting into the spirit of the age, Esmerian, 68, ventured from the
    genteel parlours of Fifth Avenue to dress the stars in his bedazzling
    gems for their red carpet appearances. Cameron Diaz, Mira Sorvino
    (left) and Sarah Jessica Parker have all strutted in Special Collection
    diamonds, emeralds, rubies and gold. Dolly Parton of the big boobs
    and American vernacular was draped for the Oscars in jewels from the
    Fred Leighton shelves and boasted: "These cost $1,200,000!"

    With the money flowing in, Esmerian decided it was time to establish
    a presence on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. The shop opened last
    September but, as he said, "That was in the good old cowboy days
    when all this was fun." The name of the man he hired to run his
    retail empire should have sounded an alarm: it was Peter Bacanovic,
    the star-stroking Merrill Lynch broker who went to jail with his
    friend Martha Stewart for diddling the stock market. Even Merrill
    Lynch raised an eyebrow at that.

    Shortly after his shop opened, the 'sub-prime' credit crunch began to
    take its terrible toll, and sales of top-end jewels tumbled. Esmerian
    could no longer make his $1.5m monthly payments and had to take back
    his Folk Art masterpieces from museums, and sell them. With Merrill
    Lynch doing even worse - it lost $30bn dollars on dodgy loans and
    fired 2,900 employees - Esmerian discovered that the smiles of Wall
    Street turn crocodile when debts go bad. They called in the jewels.

    Problems came to a head when Merrill Lynch tried to cash in the
    jewels at a Christie's auction in New York. "It's a fire sale
    presentation!" complained Esmerian. "These are pieces that deserve
    respect. It's like a magnificent Fifth Avenue Mansion being offered
    for the price of a Third Avenue condo."

    Old money is snobbish, new money ruthless. But ruthless wins. The
    only way Esmerian could avoid the indignity of his family jewels going
    on the block was by declaring bankruptcy. So now a judge will decide
    who gets the diamonds and who gets the gold.
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