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Luxury retailer Westime searches for rising stars of watchmaking

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  • Luxury retailer Westime searches for rising stars of watchmaking

    The International Herald Tribune, France
    March 18, 2010 Thursday

    Upstarts get a big stage;
    The luxury retailer Westime searches for the rising stars of high-end
    watchmaking

    by Victoria Gomelsky
    LOS ANGELES


    ABSTRACT
    John Simonian has plucked independent watchmakers with big talent and
    small marketing budgets from obscurity and given them a worthy stage
    at his two retail boutiques.

    FULL TEXT
    John Simonian, the founder and chief executive of Westime, a watch
    retailer based in Beverly Hills, California, describes success in the
    watch business by using a simile that comes naturally to people in
    this city.

    ''It's like Hollywood,'' Mr. Simonian said. ''You have 100,000 actors
    and 100 superstars, and I think the odds are the same in
    watchmaking.''

    It would seem appropriate to compare Mr. Simonian to a director or producer.

    Over the past decade, he has plucked independent watchmakers with big
    talent and small marketing budgets from obscurity and given them a
    worthy stage at his two retail boutiques, and along the way he has
    anointed them the rising stars of haute horlogerie.

    ''John's a true mover and shaker in this industry,'' said Thomas Mao,
    a management consultant in Los Angeles and the founder of
    ThePuristS.com, a Web site for watch aficionados. ''He's up there with
    Chronopassion in Paris, Hour Glass in Singapore and Cellini in New
    York,'' Mr. Mao said.

    Among those retail temples in the watchmaking community, only Hour
    Glass and Westime share the distinction of being equally influential
    as distributors.

    In addition to Westime, Mr. Simonian owns Richard Mille U.S.A. and
    distributes seven niche brands across the Americas through a parent
    company, Ildico. His brands include Greubel Forsey, Urwerk, HD3, Alain
    Silberstein, MCT, Vincent Bérard and Roland Iten Mechanical Luxury.

    For each brand, Mr. Simonian uses ''microdistribution'' to preserve a
    cult following among collectors. He perfected the sales tactic through
    his relationship with Richard Mille, the enfant terrible of high
    watchmaking, whose forward thinking in the business made a big
    impression on Mr. Simonian around the turn of the millennium.

    ''Until Richard Mille, there was the bean counter looking over the
    creative guy as he made a watch to fit the market,'' Mr. Simonian
    said. ''Richard Mille came along and said, 'I'm going to make the
    finest mechanical watch, and if it's superexpensive, it's
    superexpensive.' So he comes to the market with a tourbillon that's
    $140,000.''

    That was shortly after Sept. 11, 2001, and not everyone in the
    business shared Mr. Simonian's enthusiasm for the upstart brand. But
    that did not matter. He had already fallen in love with it.

    The appreciation was mutual. Six months after Richard Mille named
    Westime his first North American retailer, in November 2001, he gave
    Mr. Simonian the distribution business for the United States and
    Canada. That was followed in 2005 by the rights to the rest of the
    Western Hemisphere.

    Mr. Simonian, who was born in Beirut in 1956 to parents who belonged
    to the Armenian diaspora, made his first trip to Switzerland at the
    age of 12 with his father, a Swiss watch importer. Although he had a
    great uncle who specialized in watchmaking, he gravitated to the
    business side of the industry.

    In 1986, he and his Swiss wife, Barbara Simonian, moved with their two
    children to Los Angeles, where he briefly owned the largest Swatch
    store in the United States.

    In 1987, Mr. Simonian opened Westime in the Westside Pavilion, an
    upscale mall in West Los Angeles.

    ''Americans were superignorant about watches at the time,'' he said.
    ''They knew Rolex and Timex and nothing in between.''

    As the economy revved up, Westime's success in cultivating collectors
    also picked up.

    ''One of the reasons I went with all these independent brands is
    because after selling watches to all my good customers, I had nothing
    else to sell them,'' he said.

    ''They had their Breguet, their Vacheron, their Audemars Piguet and
    Richard Mille. So I brought them something new,'' he added.

    Today, between the West Los Angeles location and a salon on Rodeo
    Drive that opened in 2003, Westime stocks about 50 brands, from an
    inexpensive surfer's watch called Nixon to far-out creations from Guy
    Ellia and MB&F.

    Mr. Simonian's son, Greg Simonian, 24, the chief operating officer of
    Westime, runs the retail operation, and he follows his father's
    commitment to exotic but little-known brands. The elder Mr. Simonian
    focuses on distribution and the growing Latin American market, where a
    new group of collectors awaits.
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