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    STILL STANDING

    The Age (Melbourne, Australia)
    June 27, 2013 Thursday
    First Edition

    by Anthony Ham - Additional reporting by William Gourlay in Istanbul.

    Anthony Ham is a Melbourne-based journalist.

    With their silent protests, activists in Turkey may be quieter,
    but their discontent remains. Anthony Ham reports.

    When Murat Yavas first learnt of the protests that have rocked Istanbul
    for almost a month, he thought little of it. He supported the aim of
    the protesters to protect Gezi Park, one of the last expanses of green
    space in downtown Istanbul, and hoped the government would relent on
    its plans to transform the park into a shopping mall.

    "First it was about Gezi Park," he told Fairfax Media, speaking close
    to Taksim Square, the epicentre of the protests. "Even New York has
    a large park, Central Park. In Istanbul there is no green space."

    Even so, like most Turks he was content to watch from a distance.

    Yavas was a supporter of the government and had voted for Prime
    Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan in the past. "Before in Istanbul there
    were many problems. When he came, he solved the problems, so we gave
    him our vote."

    But for Yavas, a university-educated son of a policeman, and indeed
    for Turkey, everything changed on the night of May 31 when police
    attacked the sleeping protesters with tear gas.

    "It started with a couple of trees, just a few university students.

    But the police came at 5am. This was the spark."

    Overnight, a relatively small environmental protest against an
    ill-conceived development project became a platform for the growing
    discontent of a nation. The target of their wrath was the most popular
    leader Turkey has known in a century, a leader who appeared to have
    forgotten that his power came from the people.

    TAKSIM Square is the chaotic heartbeat of modern Istanbul. Before the
    protests began, Taksim was a polluted and unruly clamour of incessant
    traffic and noise. As an iconic open space, it was more Times Square
    than Tahrir, the vast square where Egypt's revolution was born.

    However, as a stage for Turkey's complicated mix of countercultures,
    Taksim has history. In the 19th century, it was here that poor
    immigrants to the city first settled. Taksim also sits atop the ruins
    of an Armenian cemetery that was destroyed in 1939; its gravestones
    were used to build stairs in neighbouring Gezi Park. In the 1980s,
    it was the unofficial centre for Istanbul's gay and lesbian community.

    "Taksim is where everybody expresses freely their happiness, sorrow,
    their political and social views," Esin, 41, wearing a headscarf,
    told The New York Times at the height of the protests.

    Taksim also lays bare what many consider to be the defining fault
    line of Turkish society. At one end of the square is a mosque. At the
    other, draped in Turkish flags, stands a giant portrait of Mustafa
    Kemal Ataturk, the father of modern Turkey's secular political state.

    It was Ataturk, the founder of the Turkish Republic, who set about
    dragging the country into the 20th century. As part of his modernising
    drive, he preached the virtues of secular democracy and mandated the
    use of Latin script, European dress and greater equality for women.

    For almost a century, it was Ataturk's vision that prevailed and
    whenever Islam strayed into the political realm, the Turkish military
    stepped in to secure his secular legacy.

    By turn of the 21st century, however, Turkey was in crisis. Its
    political class was in disarray and its economy was in free fall. Into
    the breach stepped Recep Tayyip Erdogan, the former mayor of Istanbul
    and leader of the nominally Islamist Adalet ve Kalkinma Partisi
    (Justice and Development Party, or AKP). Erdogan and his AKP won in
    a landslide in 2002, increased its majority in 2007, and did so again
    in 2011.

    Despite Erdogan's Islamist leanings, the Turkish military remained
    on the sidelines. That they have done so owes much to Erdogan's
    popularity - to move against the AKP would have been deeply unpopular.

    But Erdogan's longevity also derives from his skilful negotiation
    of the country's secular-religious divide. Erdogan and his AKP have
    never sought to introduce sharia law. Nor have they pushed the more
    extremist elements of Islamist philosophy.

    Instead, his government built its popularity around an inclusive
    coalition that attracted pious and liberal Muslims alike without
    threatening the secular foundations of the Turkish state. To stay
    on the right side of the law, Erdogan even abandoned Islamism as the
    party's official philosophy for one of "conservative democracy".

    This combination of wily political ways, an appeal to voters across
    a broad cross-section of Turkish society and a cleverly constructed
    version of political Islam-lite all helped to transform Erdogan into
    the most effective Turkish leader since Ataturk.

    And then something happened. Over time, unfettered by effective
    political opposition and having cowed the mainstream Turkish media
    into submission, Erdogan lost his calm authority and began to display
    an authoritarian streak. At first, he bulldozed through a series of
    signature development projects - a bridge whose name celebrates an
    Ottoman-era general who once massacred minorities, a new mosque that
    commandeered a park - each of which has eaten away at the city's green
    and open spaces and alienated important sectors of Turkish society.

    Then, little by little, he began to push an increasingly conservative
    Islamist agenda: he banned the sale of alcohol after 10pm and even
    berated couples for kissing on public transport.

    Once it would have been the military who stepped in to curb Erdogan's
    excesses. This time it was the Turkish people who took matters into
    their own hands.

    IF THERE is an Islamist-secular divide in Turkey, it would appear
    to owe more to the posturing of politicians than to any meaningful
    popular division at large in the nation.

    It was Ataturk who made secularism the philosophy of power, thereby
    relegating Islam to the margins of opposition. This neat dichotomy
    worked first in building, and later safeguarding state institutions
    that have held firm for almost a century.

    But by effectively criminalising political Islam in a country
    where more than 99 per cent of the population is Muslim, Ataturk
    disenfranchised an important sector of Turkish society.

    Under Erdogan, the roles have been reversed and Islam has become the
    language of power, while it has been the turn of secularists to be
    consigned to the margins.

    Against this backdrop, what gave the Taksim protests their power
    was the fact that these two fundamental strands of Turkish society
    finally came together on the same side. For the first time anyone
    could remember, Muslim activists stood shoulder to shoulder with
    diehard secular loyalists.

    "We are Muslim, but we don't want religion to dominate our lives,"
    Asya Balik, 32, an environmental engineer and protester, tells Fairfax
    Media. Like so many protesters, this mother of two was an Erdogan
    supporter until the government cracked down on the protesters. Now
    her smartphone is filled with images of police storming the barricades
    and unarmed protesters being tear-gassed.

    "The problem is his attitude," she says. "He is very arrogant. He just
    decides things, without any discussion or negotiation. He thinks they
    are the government, they have power. He is behaving like a kabadayi
    [stand-over man]. He thinks he is the sultan."

    "We are at a crossroads," says Murat Yavas. "We are stopped between
    democracy or theocracy, but now we are heading towards theocracy."

    It is an exaggeration perhaps, but one that Erdogan himself has done
    little in recent times to discredit. At the height of the protests,
    Erdogan claimed that protesters had been seen drinking alcohol in a
    mosque. His claims backfired when the mosque's imam countered that
    the protesters were simply seeking shelter.

    His promise to replace the controversial shopping mall planned for
    Gezi Park with a mosque was similarly condemned as a ploy to use Islam
    for his own political ends. And in a damaging public embarrassment
    for Erdogan, a group of conservative Islamic "wise men" published an
    open letter in the online T24 newspaper. In the letter they condemned
    the government crackdown and described the protests as "legitimate".

    Just as worrying for Erdogan, a significant sector of Turkish society
    which once voted for him is no longer listening. While he was blaming
    foreign media and foreign agitators for the protests, Turks all over
    the country were switching off state television and seeking other
    sources of news.

    And when he described Twitter and other social media as "the worst
    menace to society", his statement only fanned the flames of opposition.

    According to one Turkish newspaper, Turkish Twitter users have soared
    from 1.8 million at the end of May to nearly 10 million less than a
    month later. For the first time in modern Turkish history, Islamists
    and secularists were talking the same language and there was very
    little that the politicians could do about it.

    FOR ALL Erdogan's troubles, his position as Prime Minister appears
    unassailable, at least for now. Erdogan's political capital prior
    to the protests was considerable and although opinion polls show an
    erosion of support, a majority still back Turkey's embattled leader.

    Under Erdogan's watch, Turkey's economy has made a robust recovery:
    the country's GDP has increased fourfold since he came to power. He
    has also made significant progress in resolving Turkey's long-running
    conflict with its Kurdish minority, has maintained a push for Turkish
    membership of the EU and has begun the process of overhauling the
    country's antiquated constitution.

    "He may seem like he has been coming down on people hard these past
    few weeks," one retired school teacher told The New York Times at a
    pro-Erdogan rally last week. "'But what do you expect when everything
    he has built for us over 10 years is torn apart and counts for zero?

    Anyone would be angry and act in this way."

    Where the protests have left their mark, however, is in their
    rewriting of the ground rules of Turkish politics. In doing so,
    they have sidelined existing opposition parties and have denied
    the government's attempts to paint this as a war between Islam and
    its enemies. The result is a new political space, a new politics of
    previously unimaginable coalitions in Turkish society.

    Whether that translates into a meaningful political force that can
    challenge the AKP in municipal elections next year, and in national
    elections scheduled for 2015, remains to be seen.

    In the meantime, amid the ongoing traffic and political unrest of
    Taksim, a new form of protest has taken hold. It began when a solitary
    protester, Erdem Gunduz, stood in the square and gazed up at the
    Turkish flag and the image of Ataturk. He did so for hour after hour.

    Surrounded by Taksim's perpetual movement, few noticed him at first.

    But news of the silent, standing protester soon spread across the
    city and he was joined by others who have become known as duran adam
    - the standing ones. Old men carrying prayer beads and young women
    in headscarves now stand alongside students, unionists and liberal
    intellectuals. No longer afraid, no longer separated by the old rules,
    they stand together in silence, turning their backs on those who
    would divide them.

    Content-Type: MESSAGE/RFC822; CHARSET=US-ASCII
    Content-Description:

    MIME-Version: 1.0
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
    From: Katia Peltekian
    Subject: Still Standing

    The Age (Melbourne, Australia)
    June 27, 2013 Thursday
    First Edition



    STILL STANDING

    by Anthony Ham - Additional reporting by William Gourlay in Istanbul.
    Anthony Ham is a Melbourne-based journalist.



    With their silent protests, activists in Turkey may be quieter, but
    their discontent remains. Anthony Ham reports.

    When Murat Yavas first learnt of the protests that have rocked
    Istanbul for almost a month, he thought little of it. He supported the
    aim of the protesters to protect Gezi Park, one of the last expanses
    of green space in downtown Istanbul, and hoped the government would
    relent on its plans to transform the park into a shopping mall.

    "First it was about Gezi Park," he told Fairfax Media, speaking close
    to Taksim Square, the epicentre of the protests. "Even New York has a
    large park, Central Park. In Istanbul there is no green space."

    Even so, like most Turks he was content to watch from a distance.
    Yavas was a supporter of the government and had voted for Prime
    Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan in the past. "Before in Istanbul there
    were many problems. When he came, he solved the problems, so we gave
    him our vote."

    But for Yavas, a university-educated son of a policeman, and indeed
    for Turkey, everything changed on the night of May 31 when police
    attacked the sleeping protesters with tear gas.

    "It started with a couple of trees, just a few university students.
    But the police came at 5am. This was the spark."

    Overnight, a relatively small environmental protest against an
    ill-conceived development project became a platform for the growing
    discontent of a nation. The target of their wrath was the most popular
    leader Turkey has known in a century, a leader who appeared to have
    forgotten that his power came from the people.

    TAKSIM Square is the chaotic heartbeat of modern Istanbul. Before the
    protests began, Taksim was a polluted and unruly clamour of incessant
    traffic and noise. As an iconic open space, it was more Times Square
    than Tahrir, the vast square where Egypt's revolution was born.

    However, as a stage for Turkey's complicated mix of countercultures,
    Taksim has history. In the 19th century, it was here that poor
    immigrants to the city first settled. Taksim also sits atop the ruins
    of an Armenian cemetery that was destroyed in 1939; its gravestones
    were used to build stairs in neighbouring Gezi Park. In the 1980s, it
    was the unofficial centre for Istanbul's gay and lesbian community.

    "Taksim is where everybody expresses freely their happiness, sorrow,
    their political and social views," Esin, 41, wearing a headscarf, told
    The New York Times at the height of the protests.

    Taksim also lays bare what many consider to be the defining fault line
    of Turkish society. At one end of the square is a mosque. At the
    other, draped in Turkish flags, stands a giant portrait of Mustafa
    Kemal Ataturk, the father of modern Turkey's secular political state.

    It was Ataturk, the founder of the Turkish Republic, who set about
    dragging the country into the 20th century. As part of his modernising
    drive, he preached the virtues of secular democracy and mandated the
    use of Latin script, European dress and greater equality for women.
    For almost a century, it was Ataturk's vision that prevailed and
    whenever Islam strayed into the political realm, the Turkish military
    stepped in to secure his secular legacy.

    By turn of the 21st century, however, Turkey was in crisis. Its
    political class was in disarray and its economy was in free fall. Into
    the breach stepped Recep Tayyip Erdogan, the former mayor of Istanbul
    and leader of the nominally Islamist Adalet ve Kalkinma Partisi
    (Justice and Development Party, or AKP). Erdogan and his AKP won in a
    landslide in 2002, increased its majority in 2007, and did so again in
    2011.

    Despite Erdogan's Islamist leanings, the Turkish military remained on
    the sidelines. That they have done so owes much to Erdogan's
    popularity - to move against the AKP would have been deeply unpopular.

    But Erdogan's longevity also derives from his skilful negotiation of
    the country's secular-religious divide. Erdogan and his AKP have never
    sought to introduce sharia law. Nor have they pushed the more
    extremist elements of Islamist philosophy.

    Instead, his government built its popularity around an inclusive
    coalition that attracted pious and liberal Muslims alike without
    threatening the secular foundations of the Turkish state. To stay on
    the right side of the law, Erdogan even abandoned Islamism as the
    party's official philosophy for one of "conservative democracy".

    This combination of wily political ways, an appeal to voters across a
    broad cross-section of Turkish society and a cleverly constructed
    version of political Islam-lite all helped to transform Erdogan into
    the most effective Turkish leader since Ataturk.

    And then something happened. Over time, unfettered by effective
    political opposition and having cowed the mainstream Turkish media
    into submission, Erdogan lost his calm authority and began to display
    an authoritarian streak. At first, he bulldozed through a series of
    signature development projects - a bridge whose name celebrates an
    Ottoman-era general who once massacred minorities, a new mosque that
    commandeered a park - each of which has eaten away at the city's green
    and open spaces and alienated important sectors of Turkish society.

    Then, little by little, he began to push an increasingly conservative
    Islamist agenda: he banned the sale of alcohol after 10pm and even
    berated couples for kissing on public transport.

    Once it would have been the military who stepped in to curb Erdogan's
    excesses. This time it was the Turkish people who took matters into
    their own hands.

    IF THERE is an Islamist-secular divide in Turkey, it would appear to
    owe more to the posturing of politicians than to any meaningful
    popular division at large in the nation.

    It was Ataturk who made secularism the philosophy of power, thereby
    relegating Islam to the margins of opposition. This neat dichotomy
    worked first in building, and later safeguarding state institutions
    that have held firm for almost a century.

    But by effectively criminalising political Islam in a country where
    more than 99 per cent of the population is Muslim, Ataturk
    disenfranchised an important sector of Turkish society.

    Under Erdogan, the roles have been reversed and Islam has become the
    language of power, while it has been the turn of secularists to be
    consigned to the margins.

    Against this backdrop, what gave the Taksim protests their power was
    the fact that these two fundamental strands of Turkish society finally
    came together on the same side. For the first time anyone could
    remember, Muslim activists stood shoulder to shoulder with diehard
    secular loyalists.

    "We are Muslim, but we don't want religion to dominate our lives,"
    Asya Balik, 32, an environmental engineer and protester, tells Fairfax
    Media. Like so many protesters, this mother of two was an Erdogan
    supporter until the government cracked down on the protesters. Now her
    smartphone is filled with images of police storming the barricades and
    unarmed protesters being tear-gassed.

    "The problem is his attitude," she says. "He is very arrogant. He just
    decides things, without any discussion or negotiation. He thinks they
    are the government, they have power. He is behaving like a kabadayi
    [stand-over man]. He thinks he is the sultan."

    "We are at a crossroads," says Murat Yavas. "We are stopped between
    democracy or theocracy, but now we are heading towards theocracy."

    It is an exaggeration perhaps, but one that Erdogan himself has done
    little in recent times to discredit. At the height of the protests,
    Erdogan claimed that protesters had been seen drinking alcohol in a
    mosque. His claims backfired when the mosque's imam countered that the
    protesters were simply seeking shelter.

    His promise to replace the controversial shopping mall planned for
    Gezi Park with a mosque was similarly condemned as a ploy to use Islam
    for his own political ends. And in a damaging public embarrassment for
    Erdogan, a group of conservative Islamic "wise men" published an open
    letter in the online T24 newspaper. In the letter they condemned the
    government crackdown and described the protests as "legitimate".

    Just as worrying for Erdogan, a significant sector of Turkish society
    which once voted for him is no longer listening. While he was blaming
    foreign media and foreign agitators for the protests, Turks all over
    the country were switching off state television and seeking other
    sources of news.

    And when he described Twitter and other social media as "the worst
    menace to society", his statement only fanned the flames of
    opposition.

    According to one Turkish newspaper, Turkish Twitter users have soared
    from 1.8 million at the end of May to nearly 10 million less than a
    month later. For the first time in modern Turkish history, Islamists
    and secularists were talking the same language and there was very
    little that the politicians could do about it.

    FOR ALL Erdogan's troubles, his position as Prime Minister appears
    unassailable, at least for now. Erdogan's political capital prior to
    the protests was considerable and although opinion polls show an
    erosion of support, a majority still back Turkey's embattled leader.

    Under Erdogan's watch, Turkey's economy has made a robust recovery:
    the country's GDP has increased fourfold since he came to power. He
    has also made significant progress in resolving Turkey's long-running
    conflict with its Kurdish minority, has maintained a push for Turkish
    membership of the EU and has begun the process of overhauling the
    country's antiquated constitution.

    "He may seem like he has been coming down on people hard these past
    few weeks," one retired school teacher told The New York Times at a
    pro-Erdogan rally last week. "'But what do you expect when everything
    he has built for us over 10 years is torn apart and counts for zero?
    Anyone would be angry and act in this way."

    Where the protests have left their mark, however, is in their
    rewriting of the ground rules of Turkish politics. In doing so, they
    have sidelined existing opposition parties and have denied the
    government's attempts to paint this as a war between Islam and its
    enemies. The result is a new political space, a new politics of
    previously unimaginable coalitions in Turkish society.

    Whether that translates into a meaningful political force that can
    challenge the AKP in municipal elections next year, and in national
    elections scheduled for 2015, remains to be seen.

    In the meantime, amid the ongoing traffic and political unrest of
    Taksim, a new form of protest has taken hold. It began when a solitary
    protester, Erdem Gunduz, stood in the square and gazed up at the
    Turkish flag and the image of Ataturk. He did so for hour after hour.
    Surrounded by Taksim's perpetual movement, few noticed him at first.

    But news of the silent, standing protester soon spread across the city
    and he was joined by others who have become known as duran adam - the
    standing ones. Old men carrying prayer beads and young women in
    headscarves now stand alongside students, unionists and liberal
    intellectuals. No longer afraid, no longer separated by the old rules,
    they stand together in silence, turning their backs on those who would
    divide them.

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