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Jerusalem's Armenians Face Uncertain Future

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  • Jerusalem's Armenians Face Uncertain Future

    JERUSALEM'S ARMENIANS FACE UNCERTAIN FUTURE
    By MATTI FRIEDMAN

    Associated Press
    12 May 2011

    JERUSALEM (AP) - One of the four quarters of old Jerusalem belongs
    to the Armenians, keepers of an ancient monastery and library, heirs
    to a tragic history and to a stubborn 1,600-year presence that some
    fear is now in doubt.

    Buffeted by Mideast forces more powerful than themselves and drawn
    by better lives elsewhere, this historic Jerusalem community has seen
    its numbers quietly drop below 1,000 people. The Armenians, led by an
    ailing 94-year-old patriarch, find themselves caught between Jews and
    Muslims in a Middle East emptying of Christians, and between a deep
    sense of belonging in Jerusalem and a realization that their future
    might lie elsewhere.

    'Very few will remain here if it goes on like this,' said Kevork
    Kahvedjian, a Jerusalem storeowner.

    Kahvedjian sells vintage black-and-white photos of the Holy Land from
    a store founded in 1949 by his father, who arrived in Jerusalem as
    a child after mass killings of Armenians under Ottoman rule during
    World War I claimed his own parents. Today, Kahvedjian said, he has
    siblings in Canada and the U.S., a son in Washington, D.C., and a
    daughter who plans to move away soon.

    The insular world of the Jerusalem Armenians is reached through a
    modest iron door set in a stone wall.

    The door, locked every night at 10:30, leads into a monastery compound
    that is home to a contingent of cloaked clergymen and also to several
    hundred Armenian laypeople: grandparents, parents and children,
    living in a warrens of small apartments alongside their priests in a
    self-contained outpost that has existed here, in some form, at least
    as far back as the fifth century A.D.

    Also inside is a library, a health center, two social clubs and a
    school where each grade now has an average of only six or seven pupils.

    'We worry about this, of course. But we haven't found a solution,'
    said Samuel Aghoyan, 71, one of the community's senior priests.

    On a recent afternoon in the Armenian monastery's nerve center,
    the medieval cathedral of St. James, clerics in black cowls chanted
    under dozens of oil lamps suspended from the vaulted ceiling. Next to
    a priest waving a censer was an inlaid panel concealing the entrance
    to a staircase ascending inside the wall to the church's second floor.

    The monastery, led by the patriarch Torkom Manoogian, 94, guards
    other secrets. It holds the world's second-largest collection of
    ancient Armenian manuscripts, 4,000 texts guarded in a chapel opened
    only once a year. It also owns the Bible of Keran, a gold-covered
    manuscript named for an Armenian queen and kept in a treasury whose
    location the priests will not divulge, and the staff of King Hetum,
    made from a single piece of amber and revealed to the public for a
    few minutes every January.

    The several dozen priests, most of whom are sent to Jerusalem by the
    church from elsewhere, will remain, as will their edifices and relics.

    But the community itself, made up of laypeople subject to the pressures
    and pulls of this world, may not.

    Aghoyan arrived at the monastery as a 16-year-old seminarian in 1956
    from Syria, where his parents had fled from Turkey. He found the
    Jerusalem monastery crowded with families, most of them refugees or
    descendants of refugees who escaped the killings.

    Many international historians say up to 1.5 million Armenians were
    killed by Ottoman Turks around the time of World War I, which they
    call the first genocide of the 20th century. Turkey disputes this,
    saying the death toll has been inflated and those killed were victims
    of civil war and unrest as the Ottoman Empire collapsed.

    The resulting refugees swelled the small existing community of Armenian
    priests and laymen, and by the time Jerusalem was split between
    Jordan and Israel in 1948 the Armenians numbered over 25,000, by some
    counts. They were traders and craftsmen whose distinctive mosaics of
    painted tiles remain one of the city's signature design features.

    After 1948, with the city divided, the Old City under Jordanian control
    and economic prospects bleak, most Armenians left, joining thriving
    exile communities in places like Fresno, California, and Toronto.

    Perhaps 3,000 remained by the time Israel captured the Old City
    in 1967.

    The Armenians, along with Arab residents of east Jerusalem, were
    given residency rights in Israel, and some have since applied for
    full citizenship. But the community has tried to plot a neutral
    course in a place where that is difficult. Ties with both Israelis
    and Palestinians have been tense at times.

    Israel's Interior Ministry does not have statistics on the number
    of Armenians. Community leaders like Aghoyan and Tsolag Momjian, the
    honorary consul of Armenia, agree there are now fewer than 1,000 in
    the city.

    The slow decline of the Jerusalem Armenians reflects a broader
    shrinking of the Middle East's ancient Christian population. For
    much of the past century, Christians in Lebanon, Iraq, Egypt,
    the Palestinian territories and elsewhere have been moving to the
    West, fleeing poverty, religious intolerance and violence like the
    anti-Christian riot that erupted this week in Cairo, leaving 12 dead
    and a church burned.

    Young Armenians, expected to marry Armenians, are faced with a shortage
    of potential spouses. Because they are typically well-educated, fluent
    in English and have family connections abroad, they are equipped to
    leave. Those who do join a diaspora that numbers an estimated 11
    million people worldwide and supports churches, community centers
    and at least a dozen international online dating sites with names
    like Armenians Connect and armenianpassion.com.

    'Whoever leaves still dreams about Jerusalem and says they'll come
    back. But they won't,' Aghoyan said.

    Others are more optimistic. Ruppen Nalbandian, 29, a community
    youth leader with a master's degree in neurobiology from an Israeli
    university, said the outflow has slowed. Of 11 students in his class
    at school, he said, only two have left. Ten men he knows have found
    brides in Armenia and brought them back to Jerusalem, he said.

    Some in the community point to an unexpected boon in the form of
    Armenian Christians - possibly more than 10,000 of them, though
    estimates vary - who arrived in Israel as part of a mass immigration of
    Soviet Jews in the 1990s and were eligible for citizenship because they
    had a Jewish parent or spouse. Some have mixed with the established
    Armenian community.

    Not long after the Armenians adopted Christianity in 301 A.D. in
    their homeland around the biblical Mt. Ararat, on the eastern border
    of modern-day Turkey, they dispatched priests to Jerusalem.

    They have remained ever since, through often devastating conquests by
    Arab dynasties, Persian armies, mounted Turkish archers, Crusaders,
    the Ottoman Empire, Englishmen, Jordanians and Jews.

    'As we have lived here for 1,600 years, we will continue to live here,'
    Nalbandian said.

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