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THE RISE OF THE CAUCASUS TIGER
By Sigrid Lupieri
The St. Petersburg Times
http://www.times.spb.ru/index.php?action_id=2&story_id=35520
Published: April 25, 2012 (Issue # 1705)
SIGRID LUPIERI / FOR SPT
Admire Yerevan's colossal Cascade, a flight of stone steps leading
to a monument commemorating the 50th anniversary of Soviet Armenia.
YEREVAN, Armenia - A first glance of Yerevan from the imposing central
train station may appear uninspiring - bleak empty buildings flank
the large square in the gray light of dawn, merchants setting up
their stalls stare warily at passersby, and the grandiose monument
of a rider on a horse pays tribute to the country's Soviet past. But
as the bustling city gradually awakens, it soon becomes clear that
there is much more to Armenia's capital than meets the eye.
>From the ghostly view of Mount Ararat's snowy peaks looming over
the city to the vibrant colors and sounds of the Vernissage flea
market, Yerevan possesses a subtle beauty. Yerevan's citizens have
been particularly resilient despite the devastating effects of an
earthquake in 1988, dire economic hardship and a war with Azerbaijan
over the Nagorno-Karabakh enclave from 1988-94. Over the past decade,
a booming economy and flourishing business environment has given
Armenia the well-deserved epithet of the Caucasian Tiger.
Yerevan has also proven its mettle. The capital, which contains over
a third of the country's entire population, produces more than half
of Armenia's gross domestic product. The city center, stretching
beyond the vast expanse of the Republic Square, offers an abundance
of restaurants and coffee bars and, especially during the long summer
evenings, residents stroll in the streets or lounge in the outdoor
cafes to meet with friends and family. The Opera House, with its
renowned theater and symphony orchestra, and a plethora of local
museums, create a lively cultural scene for aficionados of history
and music.
According to locals, the recent changes in Yerevan have been
dramatic. "The '90s were dark years where people were sitting in
candlelight in the evenings, all packed in one room for heat," said
Ruzanna Tantushyan, a freelance writer and photographer who grew up
in Yerevan. "But in the 2000s, living conditions improved. There is
electricity and travel, and the city is a lot livelier."
Tantushyan, who currently lives in Chicago but returns regularly
to Armenia, said the most visible changes have occurred in central
Yerevan. When she left the city in 2005, buildings were gray and
covered in dust. Today, recent business investments and construction
work give the city a more cheerful appearance.
Despite the city's rapid transformation, Yerevan has not eluded
the far-reaching grasp of history. On the contrary, modernity has
crept around the stunning ancient churches, with their cool and
somber interiors, the Armenian stone crosses - called khachkar -
with engravings as delicate and intricate as embroidery, and sobering
genocide memorials, a tribute to the country's past of bloodshed.
>From the cuisine, a distinctive blend of Arabic, Russian, Greek
and Persian influences, to its architecture, an eclectic mix of
Soviet-style monuments and ancient traditional buildings, Yerevan's
uniqueness lies not only in its position at the crossroads of the East
and West, but in its ability to effortlessly merge the past with the
present. As Nobel laureate Pablo Neruda wrote about his trip to the
city in 1957, "I think Yerevan is one of the most beautiful cities I
have seen; built of volcanic tuff, it has the harmony of a pink rose."
What to see if you have two hours
As heavy traffic creates Moscow-style congestion in many parts of the
city, Yerevan's center is most accessible on foot. Starting from the
circular, stately Republic Square, formerly known as Lenin Square,
where imposing Soviet architecture meets elegant Armenian-style
buildings, walk down Abovyan Street, the city's main thoroughfare.
On Abovyan Street, you will pass cafes, souvenir shops, restaurants,
cinemas and, finally, the miniature 13th-century Katoghike, a chapel
so small its congregation has to stand in the yard.
In the northern part of the center, about two blocks west from the
chapel on Abovyan Street, visit the grand Opera House, surrounded
by a lush park. The cafes and restaurants near the park are a great
place to stop for lunch or a snack. Toward the end of the walk, stop
to admire the colossal Cascade, a flight of stone steps leading to
the monument commemorating the 50th anniversary of Soviet Armenia. If
you take the escalator to the top of the Cascade, you will be rewarded
with a breathtaking view of Yerevan.
During the weekends, the Vernissage flea market is well worth
visiting. Only steps away from Republic Square, the market offers
just about anything under the sun, from plumbing fixtures and remote
controls to Soviet memorabilia, hand-woven carpets and, according to
vendors, antique religious icons. The Vernissage market, however,
is more than a shopping experience. The vivid colors, the lively
atmosphere as customers and vendors haggle and bargain for a deal, the
intent chess-players whiling away the long hours of the afternoon,
offer a glimpse into the culture and traditions of Armenia and
its people.
What to do if you have two days
After visiting Yerevan's main attractions, there are a number of
worthwhile day trips that provide a deeper understanding of Armenia's
rich history and culture. Transportation via public bus or the
ubiquitous minibuses known for their reckless drivers is very cheap
and relatively easy. Tickets average 100 dram or 200 dram ($0.30 or
$0.60). However, if comfort is a priority, taxis are also inexpensive
and will deliver you safely to your destination. Most taxis do not
have meters but charge about 100 dram ($0.30) per kilometer.
About a half-hour minibus ride from Yerevan, Garni Temple lies at
the end of a dusty, winding road, nestled among the rugged Caucasus
Mountains. Though the Hellenistic Temple has been rebuilt, it is
one of the few structures commemorating local pagan religions. With
its gray, stone pillars, the temple brings to mind ancient Greek
architecture. On clear, sunny days, the view of the surrounding craggy
cliffs and valleys is stunning.
Though buses do not continue onward from Garni, a taxi - or,
alternatively, a 10-kilometer walk - will take a visitor to Geghard
Monastery, which is attributed to the fourth century. Most of the
churches from the monastery have been carved into the mountains.
Within the deep, cavernous rooms, the air is quiet and cool.
Candlelight illuminates intricate engravings on the walls, while
locals say a spring of water in one of the chapels can keep skin
looking youthful.
Another half-hour minibus ride from Yerevan will take you to
Etchmiadzin ( +3 7410-51-71-10 ; armenianchurch.org), the seat
of the Catholicos, patriarch of the Armenian Apostolic Church. The
Cathedral of Etchmiadzin was built by St. Gregory the Illuminator at
the beginning of the fourth century. St. Gregory claimed to have had
a divine vision in which Christ descended from the heavens to indicate
where the cathedral should be built. The museum, located in the back of
the cathedral, is small but packed with religious artifacts ranging
from elaborately embroidered ecclesiastical garments emblazoned
with valuable gems, to relics of various saints and even purported
fragments of Noah's Ark. Be sure to see the lance that supposedly
pierced Christ's side during crucifixion.
The majestic monastery of Khor Virap is situated about 35 kilometers
from Yerevan. Built upon a hill and an important pilgrimage site,
the monastery offers a breathtaking view of the biblical site of
Mount Ararat. According to legend, St. Gregory was imprisoned in a
deep well (khor virap means "deep well" in Armenian) by the pagan King
Trdat III. Twelve years later, King Trdat freed St. Gregory, who had
miraculously survived. The king then converted to Christianity, making
Armenia the first Christian nation. Within St. Gregory's chapel, it
is still possible to climb into the well and imagine the long years
of St. Gregory's confinement.
What to do with the family SIGRID LUPIERI / FOR SPT
The Vernissage market offers items from plumbing fixtures to
handicrafts.
When temperatures begin to climb, Water World (40 Myasnikyan Ave.;
+3 7410-64-97-30 ; waterworld.am) offers respite from the summer
heat. Parents can sip fruit cocktails and lounge in the park's hot
tubs, while children splash in the adventure pools, complete with
water games, wave effects, and water slides. The restaurant offers
fresh seafood and Armenian as well as western dishes.
Nightlife
If your ideal night out involves listening to the dreamy notes of a
symphony or watching acrobatic pirouettes, the imposing circular Opera
House (54 Tumanyan Poghots; +3 7410-52-79-92 ) hosts the National
Academic Opera and Ballet Theater. Billboards around the Opera House
and on Abovyan Street advertise upcoming events.
Or you can descend into the bowels of the Opera House to dance to the
beat of Russian pop or MTV at the club Opera (54 Tumanyan Poghots;
+3 7410-54-12-22 ). The entrance fee is 3,000 dram ($8).
With first-rate DJs, a large bar and quality food, Relax (105 Teryan
Street) is located in the Citadel Business Center and attracts the
young and trendy. The club is also popular among expats and members
of the Armenian diaspora. Admission averages 2,000 dram ($5).
Where to eat
The Color of Pomegranates (15 Tumanyan Poghots; +3 7410-58-52-04
) is a small, charming restaurant decorated with artifacts from
the Vernissage market. Its somewhat whimsical name is a tribute to
the Armenian film director Sergei Parajanov, whose eponymous film
"The Color of Pomegranates" appeared in 1968. The menu offers a mix
of European, Georgian and Armenian cuisine for an average check of
3,500 dram ($9) without alcohol.
One of the classiest restaurants in Yerevan, The Club (40 Tumanyan
Street; +3 7410-53-13-61 ; theclub.am) includes a wide range of
offerings, from concerts, film nights and art galleries, to French,
Italian and Armenian cuisines. You can relax in the simple yet elegant
dining room for a hearty meal with an extensive choice of wine pairings
for about 10,000 dram ($25). For a more leisurely experience, you can
sink into the downy embrace of cream-colored pouf cushions in the tea
room, while you sip teas cultivated by a traditional Buddhist family
in China.
Old Erivan (2 Tumanyan Poghots; +3 7410-58-88-55 ; olderivan.am)
serves Armenian cuisine amid lively folk music and somewhat gaudy
decor. The cave-like venue, overflowing with antiques and traditional
arts and crafts, has welcomed illustrious guests, from local artists
and celebrities to President Dmitry Medvedev. The average entree
costs about 2,500 dram ($6).
Where to stay
Built by the American entrepreneur James Tufenkian in 2001, Avan Villa
Yerevan Hotel (13th Street; +3 7460-50-10-10; tufenkian.am) offers a
spectacular view of the bustling capital from its hilly vantage point,
only a 10-minute drive from the city center. The hotel's 14 guest
rooms present an eclectic mix of modern and traditional styles -
from wrought iron bed fixtures to hand-woven 19th-century carpets -
conveying an atmosphere of elegance as well as comfort. Prices range
from 31,200 dram to 52,000 dram ($80 to $133) per night.
If you're looking for greater luxury, Denmark's national women's
football team gave the Golden Tulip Hotel (14 Abovyan Street; +3
7410-59-16-00 ; goldentulipyerevan.com) a glowing review. The elegant
hotel is located in the heart of Yerevan, within walking distance of
the Republic Square and the National Art Gallery. Whether basking
by the open-air pool or savoring an Italian or Armenian meal at
the award-winning Rossini Restaurant, you might just bump into
distinguished guests such as actor Gerard Depardieu or musician
John McLaughlin and his band the 4th Dimension. Prices hover around
89,000 dram ($228) per night and can soar up to 150,000 dram ($385)
for a Senior Suite during the summer season.
The Marriott Armenia Hotel (1 Armiryan Street; +3 7410-59-90-00 ;
marriott.com) is conveniently located on Republic Square. Originally
built in the 1950s as the main tourist accommodation during the Soviet
era, this international hotel offers classic, comfortable rooms
within walking distance of Yerevan's main attractions. Its meeting
rooms and large ballroom are ideal for business gatherings. Prices,
which almost double between April and May, start at 65,000 dram ($166)
and reach 290,000 dram ($744) for a suite.
Conversation starters
A joke in Armenia says that "if you want to know if you're a real
Armenian, you have to talk about Armenian history, culture and
identity three to five times a day." To win the hearts of Armenians,
locals suggest that you begin by praising the country and its rich
culture. If you also raise a glass of Yerevan's famous cognac, you
have set the basis for a lifelong friendship.
How to get there SIGRID LUPIERI / FOR SPT
Mount Ararat looming high above the monastery of Khor Virap, perched
on a hill near the Armenian capital.
The easiest and fastest route to Yerevan is by plane. Yerevan's
Zvartnots International Airport (zvartnots.aero/en), is located 12
kilometers from the city center and has recently been renovated to
include duty-free stores and Wi-Fi connections. There are no direct
flights from St. Petersburg to Yerevan, but including a short layover
in Moscow, the whole journey takes about six hours, with prices for
a round trip starting at 13,500 rubles ($460). Once at the airport,
you can buy a single-entry visa for 120 days for 15,000 dram ($39),
or a single-entry visa for 21 days for 3,000 dram ($8). All children
under 18 years of age are free of charge.
To get to the city center, the fastest and most practical route is
via taxi. Taxis provide 24-hour service and cost about 2,800 dram
($7) for a trip to the city.
International travel to Armenia by train is limited. While there are
no direct routes from Azerbaijan or Russia, there is a good connection
with Tbilisi, Georgia. You can buy tickets on the second floor of
the Tbilisi train station where the staff speak Georgian, Russian
and limited English. Trains from Tbilisi only run every two days,
departing in the afternoon and arriving in Yerevan early the next
morning after a 15-hour trip. Costs depend on whether you prefer to
ride first, second or third class and range from 12 lari ($7) for a
bench seat to 45 lari ($27) for a first-class compartment. You can
obtain a visa from the border patrol when you reach Armenia.
Yerevan
Population: 1,091,235
Main industries: Carpets, chemicals, primary metals, machinery,
plastics, alcoholic beverages, and processed food
Mayor: Taron Margaryan
Founded in 782 B.C.
Interesting fact No. 1: Armenia is considered the first nation to
have adopted Christianity as a state religion in 301 A.D. According
to biblical accounts, Armenians are the direct descendants of Hayk,
the great-great-grandson of Noah, whose ark landed on Mount Ararat
after the flood.
Interesting fact No. 2: Yerevan is famous for its brandy. The Yerevan
Brandy Company, not far from Republic Square, was founded in 1887,
and its cellars contain one particular barrel of brandy that will only
be opened when the conflict with Azerbaijan over the Nagorno-Karabakh
region comes to an end.
Sister cities: Buenos Aires, Argentina; Sao Paulo, Brazil; Montreal,
Canada; Marseille, France; Nice, France; Tbilisi, Georgia; Isfahan,
Iran; Carrara, Italy; Venice, Italy; Beirut, Lebanon; Antananarivo,
Madagascar; Chisinau, Moldova; Rostov-on-Don, Russia; Bratislava,
Slovakia; Damascus, Syria; Odessa, Ukraine; Cambridge, U.S.; Los
Angeles, U.S.
Helpful contacts: Eduard Nersisyan, director of Yerevan City Hall's
development and investment programs department (1 Argishti Street;
+3 7410-51-42-27 ;
yerevan.am).
Major Businesses
Yerevan Brandy Company
(2 Tsovakal Isakovi Avenue;
+3 7410-51-01-00 ; ybc.am) is one of the most successful brandy
producers in the world and is now owned by the French group Pernod
Richard. President Dmitry Medvedev, Foreign Minister Sergei Lavrov
and French composer Michel Legrand have taken tours of the building.
Nairit Plant (70 Bagratunyats Street; +3 7410-44-95-11 ;
nairit.am) produces chemicals such as chlorine and caustic soda and
chloroprene rubber. The plant opened in 1933 and has recently begun
expanding its operations in Moscow.
Established in 1999, SPS Cigaronne (24 Hovhannisyan;
+3 7410-66-14-32 ; cigaronne.com) is a cigarette maker that
exports its high-end tobacco products to 35 different countries,
including Russia and the United States.
From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress
By Sigrid Lupieri
The St. Petersburg Times
http://www.times.spb.ru/index.php?action_id=2&story_id=35520
Published: April 25, 2012 (Issue # 1705)
SIGRID LUPIERI / FOR SPT
Admire Yerevan's colossal Cascade, a flight of stone steps leading
to a monument commemorating the 50th anniversary of Soviet Armenia.
YEREVAN, Armenia - A first glance of Yerevan from the imposing central
train station may appear uninspiring - bleak empty buildings flank
the large square in the gray light of dawn, merchants setting up
their stalls stare warily at passersby, and the grandiose monument
of a rider on a horse pays tribute to the country's Soviet past. But
as the bustling city gradually awakens, it soon becomes clear that
there is much more to Armenia's capital than meets the eye.
>From the ghostly view of Mount Ararat's snowy peaks looming over
the city to the vibrant colors and sounds of the Vernissage flea
market, Yerevan possesses a subtle beauty. Yerevan's citizens have
been particularly resilient despite the devastating effects of an
earthquake in 1988, dire economic hardship and a war with Azerbaijan
over the Nagorno-Karabakh enclave from 1988-94. Over the past decade,
a booming economy and flourishing business environment has given
Armenia the well-deserved epithet of the Caucasian Tiger.
Yerevan has also proven its mettle. The capital, which contains over
a third of the country's entire population, produces more than half
of Armenia's gross domestic product. The city center, stretching
beyond the vast expanse of the Republic Square, offers an abundance
of restaurants and coffee bars and, especially during the long summer
evenings, residents stroll in the streets or lounge in the outdoor
cafes to meet with friends and family. The Opera House, with its
renowned theater and symphony orchestra, and a plethora of local
museums, create a lively cultural scene for aficionados of history
and music.
According to locals, the recent changes in Yerevan have been
dramatic. "The '90s were dark years where people were sitting in
candlelight in the evenings, all packed in one room for heat," said
Ruzanna Tantushyan, a freelance writer and photographer who grew up
in Yerevan. "But in the 2000s, living conditions improved. There is
electricity and travel, and the city is a lot livelier."
Tantushyan, who currently lives in Chicago but returns regularly
to Armenia, said the most visible changes have occurred in central
Yerevan. When she left the city in 2005, buildings were gray and
covered in dust. Today, recent business investments and construction
work give the city a more cheerful appearance.
Despite the city's rapid transformation, Yerevan has not eluded
the far-reaching grasp of history. On the contrary, modernity has
crept around the stunning ancient churches, with their cool and
somber interiors, the Armenian stone crosses - called khachkar -
with engravings as delicate and intricate as embroidery, and sobering
genocide memorials, a tribute to the country's past of bloodshed.
>From the cuisine, a distinctive blend of Arabic, Russian, Greek
and Persian influences, to its architecture, an eclectic mix of
Soviet-style monuments and ancient traditional buildings, Yerevan's
uniqueness lies not only in its position at the crossroads of the East
and West, but in its ability to effortlessly merge the past with the
present. As Nobel laureate Pablo Neruda wrote about his trip to the
city in 1957, "I think Yerevan is one of the most beautiful cities I
have seen; built of volcanic tuff, it has the harmony of a pink rose."
What to see if you have two hours
As heavy traffic creates Moscow-style congestion in many parts of the
city, Yerevan's center is most accessible on foot. Starting from the
circular, stately Republic Square, formerly known as Lenin Square,
where imposing Soviet architecture meets elegant Armenian-style
buildings, walk down Abovyan Street, the city's main thoroughfare.
On Abovyan Street, you will pass cafes, souvenir shops, restaurants,
cinemas and, finally, the miniature 13th-century Katoghike, a chapel
so small its congregation has to stand in the yard.
In the northern part of the center, about two blocks west from the
chapel on Abovyan Street, visit the grand Opera House, surrounded
by a lush park. The cafes and restaurants near the park are a great
place to stop for lunch or a snack. Toward the end of the walk, stop
to admire the colossal Cascade, a flight of stone steps leading to
the monument commemorating the 50th anniversary of Soviet Armenia. If
you take the escalator to the top of the Cascade, you will be rewarded
with a breathtaking view of Yerevan.
During the weekends, the Vernissage flea market is well worth
visiting. Only steps away from Republic Square, the market offers
just about anything under the sun, from plumbing fixtures and remote
controls to Soviet memorabilia, hand-woven carpets and, according to
vendors, antique religious icons. The Vernissage market, however,
is more than a shopping experience. The vivid colors, the lively
atmosphere as customers and vendors haggle and bargain for a deal, the
intent chess-players whiling away the long hours of the afternoon,
offer a glimpse into the culture and traditions of Armenia and
its people.
What to do if you have two days
After visiting Yerevan's main attractions, there are a number of
worthwhile day trips that provide a deeper understanding of Armenia's
rich history and culture. Transportation via public bus or the
ubiquitous minibuses known for their reckless drivers is very cheap
and relatively easy. Tickets average 100 dram or 200 dram ($0.30 or
$0.60). However, if comfort is a priority, taxis are also inexpensive
and will deliver you safely to your destination. Most taxis do not
have meters but charge about 100 dram ($0.30) per kilometer.
About a half-hour minibus ride from Yerevan, Garni Temple lies at
the end of a dusty, winding road, nestled among the rugged Caucasus
Mountains. Though the Hellenistic Temple has been rebuilt, it is
one of the few structures commemorating local pagan religions. With
its gray, stone pillars, the temple brings to mind ancient Greek
architecture. On clear, sunny days, the view of the surrounding craggy
cliffs and valleys is stunning.
Though buses do not continue onward from Garni, a taxi - or,
alternatively, a 10-kilometer walk - will take a visitor to Geghard
Monastery, which is attributed to the fourth century. Most of the
churches from the monastery have been carved into the mountains.
Within the deep, cavernous rooms, the air is quiet and cool.
Candlelight illuminates intricate engravings on the walls, while
locals say a spring of water in one of the chapels can keep skin
looking youthful.
Another half-hour minibus ride from Yerevan will take you to
Etchmiadzin ( +3 7410-51-71-10 ; armenianchurch.org), the seat
of the Catholicos, patriarch of the Armenian Apostolic Church. The
Cathedral of Etchmiadzin was built by St. Gregory the Illuminator at
the beginning of the fourth century. St. Gregory claimed to have had
a divine vision in which Christ descended from the heavens to indicate
where the cathedral should be built. The museum, located in the back of
the cathedral, is small but packed with religious artifacts ranging
from elaborately embroidered ecclesiastical garments emblazoned
with valuable gems, to relics of various saints and even purported
fragments of Noah's Ark. Be sure to see the lance that supposedly
pierced Christ's side during crucifixion.
The majestic monastery of Khor Virap is situated about 35 kilometers
from Yerevan. Built upon a hill and an important pilgrimage site,
the monastery offers a breathtaking view of the biblical site of
Mount Ararat. According to legend, St. Gregory was imprisoned in a
deep well (khor virap means "deep well" in Armenian) by the pagan King
Trdat III. Twelve years later, King Trdat freed St. Gregory, who had
miraculously survived. The king then converted to Christianity, making
Armenia the first Christian nation. Within St. Gregory's chapel, it
is still possible to climb into the well and imagine the long years
of St. Gregory's confinement.
What to do with the family SIGRID LUPIERI / FOR SPT
The Vernissage market offers items from plumbing fixtures to
handicrafts.
When temperatures begin to climb, Water World (40 Myasnikyan Ave.;
+3 7410-64-97-30 ; waterworld.am) offers respite from the summer
heat. Parents can sip fruit cocktails and lounge in the park's hot
tubs, while children splash in the adventure pools, complete with
water games, wave effects, and water slides. The restaurant offers
fresh seafood and Armenian as well as western dishes.
Nightlife
If your ideal night out involves listening to the dreamy notes of a
symphony or watching acrobatic pirouettes, the imposing circular Opera
House (54 Tumanyan Poghots; +3 7410-52-79-92 ) hosts the National
Academic Opera and Ballet Theater. Billboards around the Opera House
and on Abovyan Street advertise upcoming events.
Or you can descend into the bowels of the Opera House to dance to the
beat of Russian pop or MTV at the club Opera (54 Tumanyan Poghots;
+3 7410-54-12-22 ). The entrance fee is 3,000 dram ($8).
With first-rate DJs, a large bar and quality food, Relax (105 Teryan
Street) is located in the Citadel Business Center and attracts the
young and trendy. The club is also popular among expats and members
of the Armenian diaspora. Admission averages 2,000 dram ($5).
Where to eat
The Color of Pomegranates (15 Tumanyan Poghots; +3 7410-58-52-04
) is a small, charming restaurant decorated with artifacts from
the Vernissage market. Its somewhat whimsical name is a tribute to
the Armenian film director Sergei Parajanov, whose eponymous film
"The Color of Pomegranates" appeared in 1968. The menu offers a mix
of European, Georgian and Armenian cuisine for an average check of
3,500 dram ($9) without alcohol.
One of the classiest restaurants in Yerevan, The Club (40 Tumanyan
Street; +3 7410-53-13-61 ; theclub.am) includes a wide range of
offerings, from concerts, film nights and art galleries, to French,
Italian and Armenian cuisines. You can relax in the simple yet elegant
dining room for a hearty meal with an extensive choice of wine pairings
for about 10,000 dram ($25). For a more leisurely experience, you can
sink into the downy embrace of cream-colored pouf cushions in the tea
room, while you sip teas cultivated by a traditional Buddhist family
in China.
Old Erivan (2 Tumanyan Poghots; +3 7410-58-88-55 ; olderivan.am)
serves Armenian cuisine amid lively folk music and somewhat gaudy
decor. The cave-like venue, overflowing with antiques and traditional
arts and crafts, has welcomed illustrious guests, from local artists
and celebrities to President Dmitry Medvedev. The average entree
costs about 2,500 dram ($6).
Where to stay
Built by the American entrepreneur James Tufenkian in 2001, Avan Villa
Yerevan Hotel (13th Street; +3 7460-50-10-10; tufenkian.am) offers a
spectacular view of the bustling capital from its hilly vantage point,
only a 10-minute drive from the city center. The hotel's 14 guest
rooms present an eclectic mix of modern and traditional styles -
from wrought iron bed fixtures to hand-woven 19th-century carpets -
conveying an atmosphere of elegance as well as comfort. Prices range
from 31,200 dram to 52,000 dram ($80 to $133) per night.
If you're looking for greater luxury, Denmark's national women's
football team gave the Golden Tulip Hotel (14 Abovyan Street; +3
7410-59-16-00 ; goldentulipyerevan.com) a glowing review. The elegant
hotel is located in the heart of Yerevan, within walking distance of
the Republic Square and the National Art Gallery. Whether basking
by the open-air pool or savoring an Italian or Armenian meal at
the award-winning Rossini Restaurant, you might just bump into
distinguished guests such as actor Gerard Depardieu or musician
John McLaughlin and his band the 4th Dimension. Prices hover around
89,000 dram ($228) per night and can soar up to 150,000 dram ($385)
for a Senior Suite during the summer season.
The Marriott Armenia Hotel (1 Armiryan Street; +3 7410-59-90-00 ;
marriott.com) is conveniently located on Republic Square. Originally
built in the 1950s as the main tourist accommodation during the Soviet
era, this international hotel offers classic, comfortable rooms
within walking distance of Yerevan's main attractions. Its meeting
rooms and large ballroom are ideal for business gatherings. Prices,
which almost double between April and May, start at 65,000 dram ($166)
and reach 290,000 dram ($744) for a suite.
Conversation starters
A joke in Armenia says that "if you want to know if you're a real
Armenian, you have to talk about Armenian history, culture and
identity three to five times a day." To win the hearts of Armenians,
locals suggest that you begin by praising the country and its rich
culture. If you also raise a glass of Yerevan's famous cognac, you
have set the basis for a lifelong friendship.
How to get there SIGRID LUPIERI / FOR SPT
Mount Ararat looming high above the monastery of Khor Virap, perched
on a hill near the Armenian capital.
The easiest and fastest route to Yerevan is by plane. Yerevan's
Zvartnots International Airport (zvartnots.aero/en), is located 12
kilometers from the city center and has recently been renovated to
include duty-free stores and Wi-Fi connections. There are no direct
flights from St. Petersburg to Yerevan, but including a short layover
in Moscow, the whole journey takes about six hours, with prices for
a round trip starting at 13,500 rubles ($460). Once at the airport,
you can buy a single-entry visa for 120 days for 15,000 dram ($39),
or a single-entry visa for 21 days for 3,000 dram ($8). All children
under 18 years of age are free of charge.
To get to the city center, the fastest and most practical route is
via taxi. Taxis provide 24-hour service and cost about 2,800 dram
($7) for a trip to the city.
International travel to Armenia by train is limited. While there are
no direct routes from Azerbaijan or Russia, there is a good connection
with Tbilisi, Georgia. You can buy tickets on the second floor of
the Tbilisi train station where the staff speak Georgian, Russian
and limited English. Trains from Tbilisi only run every two days,
departing in the afternoon and arriving in Yerevan early the next
morning after a 15-hour trip. Costs depend on whether you prefer to
ride first, second or third class and range from 12 lari ($7) for a
bench seat to 45 lari ($27) for a first-class compartment. You can
obtain a visa from the border patrol when you reach Armenia.
Yerevan
Population: 1,091,235
Main industries: Carpets, chemicals, primary metals, machinery,
plastics, alcoholic beverages, and processed food
Mayor: Taron Margaryan
Founded in 782 B.C.
Interesting fact No. 1: Armenia is considered the first nation to
have adopted Christianity as a state religion in 301 A.D. According
to biblical accounts, Armenians are the direct descendants of Hayk,
the great-great-grandson of Noah, whose ark landed on Mount Ararat
after the flood.
Interesting fact No. 2: Yerevan is famous for its brandy. The Yerevan
Brandy Company, not far from Republic Square, was founded in 1887,
and its cellars contain one particular barrel of brandy that will only
be opened when the conflict with Azerbaijan over the Nagorno-Karabakh
region comes to an end.
Sister cities: Buenos Aires, Argentina; Sao Paulo, Brazil; Montreal,
Canada; Marseille, France; Nice, France; Tbilisi, Georgia; Isfahan,
Iran; Carrara, Italy; Venice, Italy; Beirut, Lebanon; Antananarivo,
Madagascar; Chisinau, Moldova; Rostov-on-Don, Russia; Bratislava,
Slovakia; Damascus, Syria; Odessa, Ukraine; Cambridge, U.S.; Los
Angeles, U.S.
Helpful contacts: Eduard Nersisyan, director of Yerevan City Hall's
development and investment programs department (1 Argishti Street;
+3 7410-51-42-27 ;
yerevan.am).
Major Businesses
Yerevan Brandy Company
(2 Tsovakal Isakovi Avenue;
+3 7410-51-01-00 ; ybc.am) is one of the most successful brandy
producers in the world and is now owned by the French group Pernod
Richard. President Dmitry Medvedev, Foreign Minister Sergei Lavrov
and French composer Michel Legrand have taken tours of the building.
Nairit Plant (70 Bagratunyats Street; +3 7410-44-95-11 ;
nairit.am) produces chemicals such as chlorine and caustic soda and
chloroprene rubber. The plant opened in 1933 and has recently begun
expanding its operations in Moscow.
Established in 1999, SPS Cigaronne (24 Hovhannisyan;
+3 7410-66-14-32 ; cigaronne.com) is a cigarette maker that
exports its high-end tobacco products to 35 different countries,
including Russia and the United States.
From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress